John Ware

HA!! Just tried inverting the nozzle and IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!! LOL.. Looks strange but topped off and cut off automatically. Superb. Thanks for the tip.

In fact, turning it through 90 degrees works just fine (the trigger opposite the flap, if you see what I mean). Has worked fine for six years on a C4 and a Turbo.

This is a follow on from someone else's post on the UK's Pistonheads website, HERE....

I have KW suspension on my Turbo and am highly likely to knock the splitter off on speed humps sooner or later. I know the C4S splitter will physically fit and gives better ground clearance but are there any practical implications?

As I don't often drive at 193mph (in fact, never faster than the national speed limit ;)) , are aerodynamics a significant issue?

However, I did decode the VIN using the VIN decoder on the forum, and it said I have the following:

"3.6-Ltr, 450-bhp, Flat 6-Cyl, 6-Spd Std, 5-Spd Auto, Bosch Motronic"

I assume the 450 HP is the X-50 Package?

Thanks everyone!

It is. Mine doesn't have it (standard 420bhp - can't complain B)) but the VIN decoder says it does. Ah well.

"Litronic" is the Bosch name for their design of Xenon lights. Porsche just continued to use the name.

don't forget to do your rms job when the gears get replaced

Didn't think that was an issue on the GT3.

...do you get taxed as heavily on parts as on the cars themselves?

Yep. VAT (sales tax) is 17.5%. Thieves.

I'll put money on it being the light switch on your dash. It's a known weak spot. If your lights are OEM factory fitted, they don't just "not light first time". My switch failed a couple of years ago at Warp 9 in the dark. Concentrated the mind a bit. They're about £60 in the UK so no doubt you'll be able to get one for $60. :rolleyes:

In my part of the world, if you cruise at 4000rpm in 6th, you're likely to have more problems than worrying about the state of your engine.

Put it this way, you're likely to find it has plenty of time afterwards to cool down. :angry:

Your light switch has gone (about £60 sterling/US$100 inc fitting). Mine went last winter (at 80 mph in the dark and wet - brakes worked as advertised!!). It's a well known problem and yours is about the right age (and presumably mileage). Mine is a 2001 pre-facelift with factory fit Litronics. Try that first. ;)

The problem is most likely to be one (or both) of the condensors. They are the smaller radiators bolted onto the front of the main radiators and are extremely prone to stone damage. I've just had both mine replaced and the aircon recharged for that very reason. The cost came to about £450 (sterling) at my specialist in the UK including labour. Not sure how prices compare in the sandpit though.

Switch changed this morning and all appears back to normal. Found the problem - "Made in Italy". :lightbulb:

Having looked at the wiring diagram, it is almost certainly the main switch. Everything which is going wrong leads through a single point as far as I can work out. I rang my specialist and he has ordered a new switch for £56 ($100 to our cousins) which he will fit tomorrow. The supplier has sold loads..... there's a clue. Anyway, problem solved (hopefully).

my switch was replaced under warrant around 25k mi. it failed once but only on one side. in your case, i'd think it's the switch. replace it.

Thanks for the information. It certainly sounds like the switch. I'll have a look later. Unfortunately, the car is no longer under warranty so I guess I'll have to pay for it. Still, it's pretty much the first thing to go wrong with it

The headlight switch is known to wear out.

Thanks, Loren. I'll investigate and report back. Could a problem with the main switch cause a problem with the main beam stalk? I've been provided with a wiring diagram but not entirely sure.... :unsure:

(Already posted on the PCGB forum)

Not sure what the problem is. My Litronics (factory fit) both went out twice the other night. Quite disconcerting at 70mph!! The first time failure was upon selecting full beam using the stalk, the second time was something to do with the headlight switch. Both lights went out at the same time so I'm convinced it's a switching problem rather than a problem with the lights. A further test in my drive with the headlight switch (not the stalk) caused the same problem. In all cases, the lights didn't go out completely, they went to an extremely dim setting.

Any ideas?

If you don't mind spending a few more $$$, get in touch with www.gahh.com and they'll fit a top with a heated glass rear window.

Isn't the stock glass window smaller than the plastic one too?

I believe so but I understand the hood for the "facelift" cars is a totally different design as a whole so it won't fit the early ones without changing the frames and the mechanism.

From what I've seen on their website, the window is smaller than the plastic one. It would appear that the top of the glass is (logically I suppose) around where the top of the fold is in the plastic one, which cuts down the size quite a bit. However, I've experimented with the plastic top and there's still a reasonable view so it should be ok.

I've also found their UK supplier, www.carhood.com, who market their Boxster top. They're not prepared to sell the 996 version until it's had plenty of customer testing in the US, so they're expecting it to be available around the end of the year.

I have a 2001 pre-facelift C4 Cabriolet with the (dreadful) plastic rear window. I've spotted that GAHH in California have developed a replacement hood with a heated glass rear window. I've researched in the UK and currently I haven't found anyone who's offering a similar product for the 996, although there are several available for the Boxster.

Has anyone fitted one of these replacement hoods to a 996? If so, is it any good as I'm very tempted to import one.

I'm the guy in question on the UK forum. I didn't send the unit back but I found the cure (I think). The Smarttop won't trigger unless you're travelling less than 20mph (or 25, don't remember). Anyway, the Parking Brake light comes on as part of the process (basically fooling the car into thinking the Parking Brake is on), the roof triggers and when the process finishes, the Parking Brake light goes off.

However, if you accelerate above 20 (25) mph before the process has completely finished, the light stays on. Probably part of the logic in the electronics being confused. My cure, don't accelerate until the Parking Brake light goes out (which it does every time now). :oops:

:offtopic: By the way, you just have to register to see the PCGB website, although parts of it are restricted to members only. Cost is £60 sterling (about $100) which pays for itself as you get discounts all over the place, including main dealers.