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John Ware

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  • From
    UK
  • Porsche Club
    PCGB (Porsche Club Great Britain)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 996 Turbo (with Manthey KW susp and GT2 Alcon brakes)
  • Future cars
    Porsche Carrera GT
    Aston Martin DB5 Vantage
    Bugatti Veyron
    Supermarine Spitfire Mk9
  • Former cars
    BMW 318iS x 2
    BMW 325Ci
    Lotus Elise S1
    Porsche 996 Carrera 4 Cabriolet

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  1. John Ware
    In fact, turning it through 90 degrees works just fine (the trigger opposite the flap, if you see what I mean). Has worked fine for six years on a C4 and a Turbo.
  2. John Ware
    This is a follow on from someone else's post on the UK's Pistonheads website, HERE.... I have KW suspension on my Turbo and am highly likely to knock the splitter off on speed humps sooner or later. I know the C4S splitter will physically fit and gives better ground clearance but are there any practical implications? As I don't often drive at 193mph (in fact, never faster than the national speed limit ;)) , are aerodynamics a significant issue?
  3. John Ware
    It is. Mine doesn't have it (standard 420bhp - can't complain B)) but the VIN decoder says it does. Ah well.
  4. John Ware
    "Litronic" is the Bosch name for their design of Xenon lights. Porsche just continued to use the name.
  5. John Ware
    Didn't think that was an issue on the GT3.
  6. John Ware
    Yep. VAT (sales tax) is 17.5%. Thieves.
  7. John Ware
    I'll put money on it being the light switch on your dash. It's a known weak spot. If your lights are OEM factory fitted, they don't just "not light first time". My switch failed a couple of years ago at Warp 9 in the dark. Concentrated the mind a bit. They're about £60 in the UK so no doubt you'll be able to get one for $60. :rolleyes:
  8. John Ware
    In my part of the world, if you cruise at 4000rpm in 6th, you're likely to have more problems than worrying about the state of your engine. Put it this way, you're likely to find it has plenty of time afterwards to cool down. :angry:
  9. John Ware
    Your light switch has gone (about £60 sterling/US$100 inc fitting). Mine went last winter (at 80 mph in the dark and wet - brakes worked as advertised!!). It's a well known problem and yours is about the right age (and presumably mileage). Mine is a 2001 pre-facelift with factory fit Litronics. Try that first. ;)
  10. John Ware
    The problem is most likely to be one (or both) of the condensors. They are the smaller radiators bolted onto the front of the main radiators and are extremely prone to stone damage. I've just had both mine replaced and the aircon recharged for that very reason. The cost came to about £450 (sterling) at my specialist in the UK including labour. Not sure how prices compare in the sandpit though.
  11. John Ware
    Switch changed this morning and all appears back to normal. Found the problem - "Made in Italy". :lightbulb:
  12. John Ware
    Having looked at the wiring diagram, it is almost certainly the main switch. Everything which is going wrong leads through a single point as far as I can work out. I rang my specialist and he has ordered a new switch for £56 ($100 to our cousins) which he will fit tomorrow. The supplier has sold loads..... there's a clue. Anyway, problem solved (hopefully).
  13. John Ware
    Thanks for the information. It certainly sounds like the switch. I'll have a look later. Unfortunately, the car is no longer under warranty so I guess I'll have to pay for it. Still, it's pretty much the first thing to go wrong with it
  14. John Ware
    Thanks, Loren. I'll investigate and report back. Could a problem with the main switch cause a problem with the main beam stalk? I've been provided with a wiring diagram but not entirely sure.... :unsure:
  15. John Ware
    (Already posted on the PCGB forum) Not sure what the problem is. My Litronics (factory fit) both went out twice the other night. Quite disconcerting at 70mph!! The first time failure was upon selecting full beam using the stalk, the second time was something to do with the headlight switch. Both lights went out at the same time so I'm convinced it's a switching problem rather than a problem with the lights. A further test in my drive with the headlight switch (not the stalk) caused the same problem. In all cases, the lights didn't go out completely, they went to an extremely dim setting. Any ideas?
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