0586slb

Don't judge the longevity of the seal by my car - it lasted 2000 miles.

Its best to get a passenger or someone following your vehicle to check if the spoiler deploys. At 75mph, the spoiler extends fully - no proportional position. The lamp illuminates if the spoiler fails to extend fully, or retract fully.

Interesting. :huh:

I've just had an OPC service/inspection and the two things they commented on were "Oil leaking from the bellhousing" (another story...) and "your front discs are corroded and need replacing. We can do it all tomorrow if you keep the courtesy car for another day"

I called their bluff by asking them to put some new discs and pads in the boot (sorry, 'trunk') for me and I'll fit them myself. Needless to say, on collection they said they were just advising caution with the front rotors.

When I got back home, I gave the front and rear rotors a full inspection - the only things I could find wrong were the rotors had what I would describe as 'light scale' on the internal venting fins and the drilling holes were partially blocked with pad dust/material. The whole of the pad seemed in good contact on both sides of the disc with good clean swept areas. I'll roll belly side up if those rotors needed renewing with that amount of corrosion. Will post some pictures if the weather stays fine tomorrow.

(I spent 10 minutes per disc poking the little holes with a screwdriver :lol: - I've past caring what the neighbors think)

The purple bit will be the plug coupler that connects to the switch. Switch is still the Audi switch on your car too. Part number 4A0 905 849B from Audi.

Why did you clean inside the bellhousing after installing the new seal? Surely with all the gritty filth, it would have been better to have it clean before installing the seal. I would not have risked damaging the new seal with a particle of grit from the housing or my hands.

That said, with the tools and lift, it looks an uncomplicated job.

I have a 986 Boxster S and an Audi A4. On the A4, the ABS is software version 5.0 and V5.3 on the Boxster.

Now with version 5.0 and 5.3, ABS carries out a self test every time you start. (from ignition on.) So as you move away from rest after starting the engine, the ABS runs the pump for about 0.25 seconds and checks the solenoid valves, when the wheel speed sensors reach about 6kph.

99.9% of the time you'll be on the gas to move off, so won't feel anything. However, in the A4, once I started downhill with my foot on the brake (a rolling start) and felt the self test through my foot. Occasionally I'll perceive the headlamps dim slightly.

I've experienced this in my Boxster too, though where I park I always have to use the gas to move off - being on the level.

I wonder if your experiencing the self test, having a downhill driveway, the cold engine will idle faster so the forward creep will be stronger in your Tiptronic so, as a rule, you'll be moving off with the foot brake applied?

Perry,

Have the display areas gone completely blank? It may just be that the illumination lamp or LED has failed. You'll need to remove the instument cluster to check this. I can't remember the year that Porsche went to all LED for the illumination.

Either. A battery can fail quickly if there is an internal disconnection or terminal fracture etc. Over time, however, the plates get sulphated - an irreversible characteristic of 'wet' lead acid batteries.

Roughly, 5 years is about the life of a battery, if yours is the original, its had a good life!

Where did they say the leak was? At one of the front condensers?

Once a key is programmed to a vehicle, it will only work with that vehicle. This is because in the new generation of immobilizers, there is a two-way communication between the key transponder and the immobilizer. When the key's electronic serial number is programmed into the car, the car's serial number is burned into the key. This is a one time only process, the key will not be able to have another serial number programmed to it.

It is also a good idea to obtain another key and have it programmed, you say the other keys were 'lost'? The process of programming keys will 'lock out' any others that aren't programmed at the same time, rendering them useless.

There are four relays in total. Two for the left fan, and two for the right. The first stage (or slow speed) relays - one for each side, are paralleled and will switch together, also the full speed relays are paralleled and will switch together too. They are switched directly from the DME, whether it decides the AC requires them or the engine is too hot.

Stefan, colour coded resistors are only used up to about 2W. (For printed circuit boards) Anything required to dissipate more power will not be colour coded.

PTEC, your description is slightly muddled, as the resistors being in circuit make the motors turn more slowly. Your description should have been "If you're getting high speed but not low speed, the resistors are burned out"

A very easy way to test the resistors without having to dive under the car, is to remove relay 19 & 20. Measure the resistance between pin 5 (87) of socket 19 and pin 5 (87) of socket 20. This should be 0.55ohm. Remove relay 21 & 22 and repeat. Again, 0.55ohm.

After all that, the temperature sensor is a split NTC device that has one sensor for the instrument cluster and one for the DME. One can go bad without the other, hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer will show this straight away.

Chris

The instructions above are correct.  The only thing I am not sure about is heating the hub to remove the inner race.  I think you would want to heat the race as the hub is inside the race.

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You're correct... :oops:

I got carried away and put in one too many 'Heat to 100°C' - I've edited the guide above. :)

Scott,

You don't mention what model year your car is(?) If its an earlier one, it may be one of the roof transmission's is going past the end point and intermittently jumping off the drive cog. Tool Pants and Mark's explanations in the 'Boxster Top Issues' forum describe this very well, with pictures too!

I've driven two years in my 986S (first RWD car) without PSM and I'm blessed that the Boxster forgives a novice like myself. The point about good tyres is correct, the Boxster just snaps back in if you lift off the gas following a slide of the rear end under acceleration.

Ibro,

It happens on my 2002.5 986S, for just a split second as you mention. Its perfectly normal, just a tiny bit of electical noise as the ignitors work hard to strike the arc in the lamps. Once the discharge is established, the voltage across the lamp drops (it takes a lower voltage to maintain the arc than to strike it in the first place) and the noise ceases. This is over in under a quarter of a second.

Reduces coolant temps by as much as much as 30 degrees.

The only way I think WWs effect could be quantified in our cars would be to measure the coolant flow at a given engine load and ambient temperature, then run the experiment again with WW added to the coolant. You'd expect the thermostat to slightly restrict the flow (due to the more efficient heat transfer) but in essence I don't think it would make a difference at all, as the thermostat will keep the engine at its optimum temperature.

alexcwt, 'coolant' may increase the boiling point of water, but the biggest effect of raising the boiling point is that it is a sealed, pressurised system. Thats why Nitrogen and other gasses can be stored as a liquid at room temperature, under pressure.

Sounds reasonable. It sounds as though the clutch plate is either contaminated or warped (out of round). You only slip the clutch in 1st or reverse (unless you're a poor driver..) so thats why it doesn't judder very much in the higher gears.

Whatever the outcome, it sounds as if the clutch needs an inspection, and you may as well have new components fitted while the gearbox is removed.

Chris

...Also keep in mind a with a darker color, they may be able to match the shade ,but if they go single stage it may not match the depth of the color.

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And then check it out under the sodium street lights. Red is difficult to match, you may get a match that looks OK in daylight, but under the streetlights it looks like a patchwork quilt! :eek:

Sure looks like some 987s are still being made in Germany.

Of the 10 on the lot today 2 were made in Germany.

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...with the windshield being made in Belgium! :lol:

I found out (the hard way) that I have to reverse on to my driveway and drive forward off it. If I reverse off, that part gets damaged or ripped off, as I found at my last service. Its fairly cheap, and I think its called a 'spoiler' from my invoice.

If you have access to a workshop press, the job is relatively easy. Yes, its a press-fit bearing. Here's how:

(Car on wheels) Remove centre cap from wheel, slacken hub nut.

Remove wheel.

Remove caliper, disc, shoes and all other brake hardware.

Remove drive-shaft by removing hub nut and pressing drive-shaft through with universal (5 bolt) hub press.

Split all ball joints, remove wheel bearing housing complete.

Press hub out of wheel bearing/housing.

Press/pull inner race from hub

Remove 4 bolts from retainer plate cover, remove cover

Remove brake disc cover (3 bolts)

Heat bearing housing to 100°C, press outer race from housing.

Install:

Clean bore of wheel bearing housing

Heat housing to 100°C

Insert new bearing, press very gently on OUTER RACE into position.

Install brake disc cover plate, 10Nm.

Orientate retainer plate with water drain downwards, fit plate, 37Nm.

Press in the wheel hub, this time with suitable tube to support the INNER RACE.

Refit to vehicle, as a reversal of removal.

Have a rear wheel alighnment carried out.

On a ROW car, just press and hold the unlock button. Have you tried it? To close, just press and hold again. The windows only move while you are holding the button, so you can stop them quickly.

...so if you happen to overload a circuit patching additional items into it could you simply use a higher amped fuse?...

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Yes, if you want the car to catch fire(!) :o

Fuses are rated to protect the cabling, as well as the end component. You'd be inviting disaster if you start uprating fuse values. But as Tool Pants said, you will be quite safe adding the equipment you have quoted.

There is a specific fuse - its A5(15A) and it supplies Bus Bar 10 that the lighting distribution you mention comes from (t58). Upstream of the fuse, its supplied from terminal 56 of the light switch (KL58 on the switch) a solid green wire.

Auto Atlanta do a couple of spoilers that I think are OK. Obviously the second one will be painted in your body colour. This is the one I'm toying with the idea of.

i don't want the tin slab of metal that people seem to enjoy putting on civics.

Pity. I'd love to see your Boxster with that spoiler, LED washer jets, neon underlights, 8" can exhaust... :lol: