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beechner
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CAN Bus Controller Problem?
beechner replied to beechner's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
OK, so first off here are the codes that had been reported up through the end of August last year. This first started in the spring so here are the codes from 05/15: C112, C2, P3081, P0195, P0117. Next is 08/14: P0117, P3081, P0195, 8004, C112, C200, 8016. Then on 08/21: C140, C158.Once again, all issues disappeared once the weather cooled. I did replace the battery back in April and followed the instructions on things that needed to be learned after replacement. Second, the hard starting does seem to be temperature related as well. There is never an issue with a cold start nor if the car has been shut off for just a few minutes, only when having been fully warmed up and then having sat for an hour or so. Then it requires prolonged cranking (normal cranking speed) and does not fire at all initially. After cranking several times it then fires up but roughly. It smooths out and then operates completely normally. It the car sits for several hours there is never a problem getting it to start. -
I have a 2007 Boxster (not S) with around 85000 miles. Currently it's sitting quietly waiting for spring but when the time comes it needs to have a problem resolved. Last summer during hot weather it would have temperature gauge failures and oil level reading failures, sometimes with the check engine light coming on. Also it became hard to start when warm. No problem at all when cold or in colder weather. Once the outside temperature gets down to the 40s or 50s it never has any issues. When I read out codes using the Durametric tool there are a number of them all indicating a communication problem with the bus controller. Is it possible for the controller to overheat up there under the dashboard or is it just failing? And if it has to be replaced, what happens if it's replaced and it isn't coded by a Porsche dealer or other facility that has the appropriate device to code it?
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Thanks for the suggestion. I do intend to lubricate the o-rings once I can actually reach them. As it stands at this point I can't even reach the o-ring on two out of three to do that. I had thought about resorting to dropping the engine a bit and I'm thinking it's possible but I'm hoping that's a last resort. The main thing in my way at this point is the air box so I'm going to try to get that out to give more room but I have to remove the roll pin from the last attachment to the body and then even with it free I'm not sure there's room to pull it out. Anyway, I'm going to give that a go along wiht the o-ring lubrication and see what happens.
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This question is related to my efforts to fix an intermittent coolant temp gauge, oil level and oil temperature reading failure on a 2007 Boxster with the 2.7L engine and a five speed. My thought has been that there was a wiring issue perhaps related to our very active local chipmunk population thinking the top of the engine was a lovely place to stay in the winter when the car was not being driven. And since the wiring for both the coolant temperature and the oil level/temperature unit is on the top of the engine on the 4 -6 cylinder side I thought I would have a look. Following the instructions in the service manual, I removed things down to the 4 - 6 fuel rail with injectors and then came to the realization that the front bolt on the intake tubes sits under the AC compressor and I had no way to get to it without removing more stuff than I wanted to. I could already see that the wiring looked good although the top of the engine was covered in chewed up acorn pieces. I vacuumed those out and then wanted to reinstall the injectors but can't get enough leverage to get them back in nor can I pull out the fuel rail/injectors to put on new o-rings. What's the trick here to getting this back together? I'm incredibly frustrated at this point since I've never had any difficulty on other cars doing the equivalent with fuel rails and injectors where there was actually space to work.