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Thanks all ..... will use this info next time!! ..... Good thing I did not know the GT3 RS dampers were cheaper.... I'd have been tempted to go that way, likely throwing off Porsche's careful suspension balance! Awaiting spring in the Canadian Okanagan.. Ron
My inter-provincial safety inspection identified my 14 year-old rear shock bodies were leaking ( I confirmed that ) ... 1200 CAD, about 1000 USD, per shock, for the replacements ... yikes! Apparently this is a weak spot on the GT3-1? Any other experiences?
|I have been strongly advised by my Porsche mechanic (supported by another VW mechanic) to change the coolant in my 14-year-old GT3-1 asap.... an associated Renntech post listed 8 yrs as a recommended interval between coolant flushes.
Unfortunately because those eccentrics have so much slop in them, this in no way guarantees that you're at the same alignment as when you started. If you've ever aligned one of these cars you know that if you turn the eccentric, often no change in alignment will occur for the first 1/16 of a turn! You may be fine - but I'd suggest getting an alignment. Quick question - did you still have to disconnect the axle doing it your way (removing the eccentric bolt)? Right, but it puts it back close enough to get it to the alignment shop. For me, it's a given that anytime your changing suspension components an alignment is mandatory afterwards. I wouldn't even think of not doing one. I already had the axle loose before I decided to go with removing the excentrics bolt, but no, you wouldn't have to. My experience, just installed h&r 1" lowering springs springs on both ends, is that in the rear the drive shaft needs to be disconnected at the differential to allow enough play to pull the lower control arm out of the pivot point on chassis (eccentric bolt). Drive shaft disconnection is easy using the method in Graeme's guide (6 mm hex, 15" extension, using park brake to stop rotation). In summary, at the rear, I disconnected; the driveshaft at differential, lower control arm at pivot point (eccentric bolt) on chassis, toe link at hub end, trailing link at lower control arm only. This allowed lots of play to drop the hub carrier and remove strut. I did not disconnect; brake line, wear sensors, ball joint, diagonal brace, chassis mounting of trailing link, driveshaft from hub, brake rotor. I pulled the brake caliper off the rotor and hung to one side (no brake line or wear sensor disconnection) and did not need to compress the spring. p.s. I found that piling a few layers of paint masking tape on the wheel well lip and fender saved chips as I wiggle the strut around to remove it from the hub carrier (of course this was after a nice little chip due to removing the first strut and ticking the fender with the top of it!) I've ended up spending an afternoon per corner... I am slow and generally careful, also due to having to buy the non-standard tools to do this job; 18 mm socket, 18 mm wrench, 6 & 7 mm hex drives.