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RandalJ

Contributing Members
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About RandalJ

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Phoenix (Ahwatukee) AZ
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1999 996 C2 Coupe Manual Zenith Blue
    2002 330i Manual Steel Gray
  • Former cars
    1986 911 Targa
    85 BMW 535i
    88 BMW M3
    98 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro
    02 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro
  1. I posted in the Common Fixes and Repair, but onto an old thread and thought it might be better if I added a quick note here. Even if your car battery is good enough to crank your engine and start your car, if it is in old battery on the decline it will definitely shorten your remote range. In my case, it got to the point where I'd have to stand next to the driver's window, and even then it was tempermental. I did replace the battery in one of the keys to see if that was the problem, but it had no effect. After reading posts on opening the A-piller, and making the antenna the optimum le
  2. I just wanted to pass on another tip for those who have had problems with the remote reception. Before you go to the trouble of disassembling the A-piller, have your car battery tested. Just because it cranks the car enough to start does not mean that it is 100%, and I have discovered that a new battery solved the reception problem. When I bought my 996 in 2006, the reception was fine - 30 feet if not more. I installed an Optima battery, kept the car for about four years, sold it to someone in-state, and bought it back last December (75k miles). I did notice that the key range had gotte
  3. Yes, that was it. It fit as you described. Just wondering whether the curl is supposed to curl forward, or toward the rear of the car, for reduced wind noise. Before I glue it down. Thanks
  4. I have had a rattle inside the headliner, between the rear window and the sunroof, and have followed the procedure for partially taking off the rear half of the headliner. What I found inside was a loose piece of weatherstripping, about two feet long, just lying on the headliner. I suspect it may be part of the sunroof assembly, but have no clue where it goes: The weatherstripping that surrounds the sunroof opening is intact, so I don't think this piece is supposed to be attached to the sunroof panel itself. But it is about the width of the sunroof. Maybe on bottom rear edge of sunroof?
  5. I have an answer to my own question. The sockets the nozzles sit in were cracked around the edges due to age, so the nozzles probably shot out when under pressure. At first I was not sure whether these were age-related cracks or just slots to enable the nozzles to be pressed in, but when I received new washer assemblies (from Sunset sponsor) I saw there were no slots. So, if you lose a nozzle, look for the cracks. If cracked, then the whole assembly must be replaced if you want functioning headlight washers.
  6. Hi all. I'm back after having sold my 996 in 2012, and buying it back last December! It's about 10k miles older, with about 73k on the clock now... Anyway, I have a little problem. The headlight washers each have dual nozzles. I don't know when or how this happened, but the inboard nozzles on both sides are gone (outboard nozzles are still present). I know that these nozzles are not sold separately (only the whole washer assembly is available), and probably hard to find used, but has anyone here attempted to replace just the nozzles? I want to know whether they are snapped in, glued in,
  7. Thanks for your suggestions. I have done the tiptronic downshift but it seems like what's the point of having an automatic if you have to do that? And all of my cars up to now have been manuals, but I haven't gotten comfortable with the tip - just seems like I need to do something with my left foot! As I mentioned, the problem goes away with the PSM off, but the shift points are way higher - like still in 4th at 55mph. So I know the already poor fuel economy will be even worse - as it would be, but not as badly, if the throttle response was better with PSM on. Anyway, I'll check out the TS
  8. This is the hesitation that typically happens when you get on throttle after braking through a turn, of when tying to pass someone on a freeway. You mash the pedal, and nothing happens for maybe as long as two seconds. I've done a lot of searching lately because the hesitation is really getting on my nerves, but have not been able to find any definitive conclusions on this. Over the years, people have thought it was coil packs, turbo lag, and maybe a few other things. I've ruled all of these out on my car. The most plausible theory I have come across is that the "learned" driving habit, aff
  9. I had the same problem for several weeks last year/early this year. It was intermittent (usually when cold, I thought), and it drove me nuts because I tried changing bulbs, cleaning sub assembly contacts, you name it. Thinking this through, testing with a DVM, I finally ruled out any opens or shorts through the headlight assembly. That meant it had to be in the wiring harness somewhere. I replaced the short wiring harness, to no avail. Later I was able to connect the headlight assembly to the harness socket with the headlight uninstalled, and everything worked. Turned out that the plug where
  10. Thanks, Loren. Looks pretty straightforward once the panels are removed - though it sounds like getting those panels off is more than half the battle. I'll find out in a week or two...
  11. Have seen the instructions for the V6 and Trans Siberia, but have not been able to find anything on the 1st generation turbo. Mine's a 2006 MY. I'd be willing to post picks/tips of the operation if anyone has the factory manual procedure to guide me. Also, I'm thinking it is a bad idea to raise the suspension and rely on it staying up while under the car, though I've seen that espoused a few times on the internet. Is max height the "natural" height? Seems like it would be, with minimum compression on the springs. But even if it is, could it compress down if there is some malfunction, even
  12. I determined the cause. The optical connector to the camera was not making a good connection. I took it apart and cleaned it the best I could, and snapped it back together, and it has been trouble free ever since. To get to the connector just pry off the exterior panel right below the rear window. Before that I had completely disassembled the rear liftgate from the inside, and discovered that I could not access the camera from the inside - just so you know.
  13. Yes, I forgot to mention that the camera extends in all cases. So I don't think it is an intermittent connection, but I'll know more after a few days. Right now, all I know was that it worked reliably for about four months. Then reliably went dark (still extended) for a solid week, and now it's back.
  14. I bought a 2006 Cayenne Turbo with 70k miles in August, and everything has been good so far. Just a minor annoyance but potentially expensive to put right - my reverse camera image went black about a week ago. The monitor would flash for a split second when I went into reverse, as though it was coming on normally, but then the screen would go black. The red lettering warning that the driver should still visually verify what's behind still came up, but against a totally black background. I was planning to remove the inside panel of the rear hatch this weekend to see if any wires had come loo
  15. My symptom was that the driver's side bi-xenon would come sometimes fail to come on. I had the dealer look at it again, since they had replaced the wiring harness/multi-pin receptacle that the headlight plugs into a few months back for the same problem. This time they told me that the whole headlight assembly needed replacing because it was "arcing". They wanted $1200 to do this. I decided I would take the headlight unit out and see if I could repair it. When I did, I could see no evidence of arcing or any other damage. So I unhooked the receptacle from where it snaps into place on the head
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