RandalJ

My battery was starting to go, so, inspired by another Optima DIY on Rennlist, which involved mods to the battery tray, I decided to give it a try. The other DYI involves drilling two holes through the base of the battery and through the battery tray, and bolting the battery to the tray, re-using the factory clamp on the passenger side, and re-installing the battery and tray as an assembly. I bought the Optima 34R, with reversed polarity posts because I had read that it was easier to reach with both stock battery cables. I removed the old battery, and tried to position the Optima 34R so that both cables reached. I quickly realized that that was not going to happen and still give me access to the battery tray nuts for installation. I also did not like having to remove and install the battery and tray as one assembly in the first place, if it was not necessary. So, I looked for an alternative. The Optima comes with a variety of adaptors, including a v-shaped plastic clamp. My idea was to re-use the metal factory clamp on the passenger end of the battery, and use this v-clamp on the base lip at the driver's end to snug it up. First I positioned the battery on the tray in the car to make sure the cables would reach the posts. Even with the reverse posts, it is a very tight reach. I'm wondering now whether the reverse posts buy you anything, because while the positive cable comes from the rear, the negative comes from the front. Anyway, I marked the battery tray with where the battery needed to be, prepared to replace the negative cable with a longer one if necessary. I took the battery tray out of the car, and positioned the Optima on it, the factory clamp, and the plastic adaptor clamp so that I could determine where on the tray to drill. I drilled a quarter inch hole, and started to think about the hardware. Since I would not have access to the bottom of the tray, I thought it would be best to secure a longish bolt with a washer and nut on top, so that the bolt could not turn. I went off to Ace Hardware and found a good stainless steel bolt, washer and nut, the bolt having threads all the way to the head so that the nut could be spun all the way down to clamp the bolt to the tray. Then I thought, instead of a big washer and nut to hold down the plastic adaptor, how about something you can turn by hand? So, also at Ace, I found a plastic "hand nut" (with metal threads inside). Here are some photos of the install: This shows the battery tray with the new bolt attached. Here I double check to make sure that both clamps, the factory on the right, and the plastic adaptor of the left, would fit, and that the battery would be held firmly. Finally, here is the Optima installed. The stock negative battery cable just barely made it. I had to loosen the cable at the chassis, attach at the post, then tighten the cable at the chassis again. It does not appear to be putting any undue stress on the battery. I may end up putting a washer under the hand crank. Or replacing the hand crank with a washer and bolt if it appears that the hand nut won't hold up in this environment. One other note - You can see where I had to trim away some of the plastic lip on the battery so that the "hand nut" could be turned.

These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before. Tools needed: Flat-bladed screwdriver 4mm allen wrench Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket Parts needed: The bellows Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows) First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition. No need to disconnect the battery. You will see, along the rear edge, four caps, as seen below. These pry out easily with your fingers or with a flat bladed screwdriver. No paint to worry about, just try not to mar the plastic. With the caps off you can access the 4mm allen head bolts: I found these to be a bit tight due to exposure to the elements, but I was able to get them off with an allen key. A long allen socket would work better. Once the bolts are out, the top tray (painted part) of the spoiler can be slid toward the rear and off. Put it somewhere where it won't be scratched. Now you can see the fasteners holding the top of the bellows to the spoiler. There are two explanding plastic fasteners, one on each corner, and several sliding hooks. I destroyed my plastic fasteners since my new bellows came with new ones. Just nipped them off with wire cutters. With the two plastic fasteners off you can disengage the hooks and detach the top of the bellows by sliding it to the right, and down. The top edge of the bellows is actually sandwiched between a long metal strip and the spoiler. The metal strip has the hooks that go through pre-cut holes in the bellows. View from below: With top of bellows detached: With the top of the bellows detached, open the engine lid. You will see several circular clips holding the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid: There is one under the fan, so you will have to detach the fan. Just three 10mm bolts. Just let it hang by the cable, out of your way. Be careful not to scratch your paint while removing the clips. In my case, the clips themselves had scratched the paint a bit. Fortunately this is one of the body areas that receives only a "rough" paint job from the factory anyway. Save those clips. It is not necessary to replace them. With the clips removed, you can pull the bellows out. As with the top, there is another frame piece running the length of the bottom of the bellows. This sandwiches the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid. The bellows has pre-cut holes for the nubs on the metal strip: Lay your old bellows alongside you new one, so that you can see how the top and bottom frame strips fit. Reassembly: Transfer your frame pieces to your new bellows. Then attach bottom of bellows to engine lid with the circular clips. Push those numbs through and get those clips up as tight as possible. The idea is to clamp onto the lower bellows edge. Re-attach the fan. Close engine lid Make sure the top frame piece hooks are threaded through the top of the bellows, push up through the corresponding holes in the spoiler, and slide to the left to secure. Make sure all of the hooks are engaged and snug. Then insert and secure the two plastic expanding fasteners in the corners. This step will confirm that you have the bellows and the spoiler snug and aligned properly. Now grab your painted spoiler top, and look under it to make sure the locking tabs are lined up. Push down, and slide toward the front of the car to lock the tabs. The top and bottom of the spoiler should mate very well. If you feel gaps around any edges, check and adjust. Finally, secure the top of the spoiler with the four allen screws. Put the plastic caps on, and manually raise and lower the spoiler to make sure you haven't left any tools in there...