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bonehead

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About bonehead

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  • From
    Houston, TX
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2011 GT3RS
  • Former cars
    2006 BMW M5
  1. Changing brake fluid out to Castrol SRF on my 997 turbo. From what I understand, this cannot be mixed with any other fluid, including what's in the clutch and ABS reservoirs. From what I'm reading above, the clutch is run with completely different fluid/reservoir, so this should be left alone?? Does the ABS still need to be flushed as well? If so, is the only way to bleed the clutch (if necessary) and ABS through a PIWIS or Durametric or is there another way to ensure that fluid is purged during the flush?
  2. Yikes. I forgot I made this thread. I actually had the conversion done at the end of 2010. My first impression while pulling out of the EVOMS parking lot was "my god, what have I done???? I can't drive this thing!":) Literally only took me a handful of times afterwards to get used to the heaviness. Honest truth, it doesn't bother me at all now. It's most certainly different than my DD (Subaru STI), but everytime I get in the turbo, it's just not a big deal. That being said, if I lived in Los Angeles and had to use this as a commuter car, I may have another opinion.
  3. Sell those rims yet?

  4. V1 Hardwire for 997's with autodimming mirror (NO SOLDERING) Thanks to another 997 owner for walking me through this. This is his mod, I just took the pics while I did it There was a very elegant hardwire thread on Renntech that involved a lot of cutting and soldering.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/15-v1-switched-power-hardwire-installation/ Yeah....wasn't too comfortable with that. Couldn't believe that no one posted a V1 hardwire using the V1 kit. To my knowledge, one doesn't exist. Well, here it is: Tools needed: Small flathead screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Pliers V1 Hardwire kit 1) Remove the dome light cluster I used a small flathead screwdriver up by the windshield to gently release the clips and remove the lights. 2) Remove the homelink buttons There is a small tab along side each button cluster (indicated by red arrow). Use a small flathead to pop these out. They come out with very little effort. 3) Remove the Phillips head screws After removing the buttons, you will see a Phillips head screw under each button cluster. Remove these. Screw hole with screw already removed 4) Remove plastic dome cover Sorry, no pic of this. Get a flathead screwdriver or your fingers under the dome cover back by the sunroof and gently (but firmly) pull down. It is held by two clips a few inches from the back and hooks in the front by the windshield. I was afraid of breaking the thing, but it eventually came loose 5) Find the ORANGE/BLACK hot wire This wire is located in the cluster of wires coming out of the headliner on the driver's side. Cut or push the black tape aside to find it and get enough slack to attach the T-tap connector. Hot wire with T-tap connected 6) Attach the ground This is PITA Using the metal clip on the passenger side where you removed the Phillips head screw, slowly slide the clip part way towards the passenger side. To prevent it from flying under the headliner if you accidentally remove it completely, stuff a small microfiber or paper towel in the space just to the right of the clip. Now, using the flathead, pry open a space between the clip and the chassis. Then slide the spade connector from the hardwire kit into this space. Push the clip back to the left to line up the screw hole with the hole in the clip. 7) Test it Without putting all the lights and panels back just yet, put the Phillips head screw back into the passenger side hole to hold and compress the ground to get a good connection. Fire up the car and VOILA! Just remember to remove the screw again before you replace the dome cover. Mine didn't work at first. Had to pinch the T-tap with pliers to adequately cut through the insulation of the hot wire. Other than that, just make sure the ground screw is in tight and it should work. 8) Route phone power cord out the front and STUFF the wires under the headliner Route a short length of the straight cord out through the front hole by the mirror stalk. Now to get the wires tucked...Ok, this is PITA too. If you haven't already noticed, there isn't a lot of room up there. But if you look under the headliner under the passenger side vanity mirror, there is some room to stuff all the wires. This took some doing with a VERY tight fit, but it works. 9) Reverse the removal steps. Clip the plastic dome piece into place, replace Phillips head screws, replace buttons and dome light. Now you can enjoy V1 hardwired goodness Author bonehead Category Carrera (997-1) - Mods Submitted 05/30/2010 08:23 PM  
  5. Thanks to another 997 owner for walking me through this. This is his mod, I just took the pics while I did it There was a very elegant hardwire thread on Renntech that involved a lot of cutting and soldering.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/15-v1-switched-power-hardwire-installation/ Yeah....wasn't too comfortable with that. Couldn't believe that no one posted a V1 hardwire using the V1 kit. To my knowledge, one doesn't exist. Well, here it is: Tools needed: Small flathead screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Pliers V1 Hardwire kit 1) Remove the dome light cluster I used a small flathead screwdriver up by the windshield to gently release the clips and remove the lights. 2) Remove the homelink buttons There is a small tab along side each button cluster (indicated by red arrow). Use a small flathead to pop these out. They come out with very little effort. 3) Remove the Phillips head screws After removing the buttons, you will see a Phillips head screw under each button cluster. Remove these. Screw hole with screw already removed 4) Remove plastic dome cover Sorry, no pic of this. Get a flathead screwdriver or your fingers under the dome cover back by the sunroof and gently (but firmly) pull down. It is held by two clips a few inches from the back and hooks in the front by the windshield. I was afraid of breaking the thing, but it eventually came loose 5) Find the ORANGE/BLACK hot wire This wire is located in the cluster of wires coming out of the headliner on the driver's side. Cut or push the black tape aside to find it and get enough slack to attach the T-tap connector. Hot wire with T-tap connected 6) Attach the ground This is PITA Using the metal clip on the passenger side where you removed the Phillips head screw, slowly slide the clip part way towards the passenger side. To prevent it from flying under the headliner if you accidentally remove it completely, stuff a small microfiber or paper towel in the space just to the right of the clip. Now, using the flathead, pry open a space between the clip and the chassis. Then slide the spade connector from the hardwire kit into this space. Push the clip back to the left to line up the screw hole with the hole in the clip. 7) Test it Without putting all the lights and panels back just yet, put the Phillips head screw back into the passenger side hole to hold and compress the ground to get a good connection. Fire up the car and VOILA! Just remember to remove the screw again before you replace the dome cover. Mine didn't work at first. Had to pinch the T-tap with pliers to adequately cut through the insulation of the hot wire. Other than that, just make sure the ground screw is in tight and it should work. 8) Route phone power cord out the front and STUFF the wires under the headliner Route a short length of the straight cord out through the front hole by the mirror stalk. Now to get the wires tucked...Ok, this is PITA too. If you haven't already noticed, there isn't a lot of room up there. But if you look under the headliner under the passenger side vanity mirror, there is some room to stuff all the wires. This took some doing with a VERY tight fit, but it works. 9) Reverse the removal steps. Clip the plastic dome piece into place, replace Phillips head screws, replace buttons and dome light. Now you can enjoy V1 hardwired goodness
  6. Hmmm....thanks Loren. I'll have to find out if the setup is some bastardization. But I imagine if every GT2 out there has this, it must be somewhat usable or there would be a lot of pissed of GT2 owners with a very expensive vehicle that's virtually undrivable after a few shifts, no?
  7. Well...maybe I do have a bionic leg.....bionic chicken leg, more appropriately:) I may have been mistaken if I said the power assist was completely removed from the clutch. But I suppose that is part of my question. Does this conversion diminish the power assist or remove it completely? I agree that zero assist would be intolerable just after getting out of my driveway.
  8. Just picked up an 07 TT a few weeks ago and haven't had much seat time, but I've found the clutch to be a bit tricky. Not a lot of feel with engagement. Very close to the floor, but other than that, I just can't seem to get a good read on when it hooks up. Before I got it, I was expecting the pedal feel to be firm, but it was surprisingly very, very light. My Mini's clutch actually feels firmer. I thought I liked the ease of the pedal, maybe still do, but a friend at EVOMS mentioned this 'upgrade' to me and it sounds intriguing. Removes the power assist and gives back more 'feeling' with clutch engagement. Only downside is it makes it much heavier and harder to depress. Anyone done this conversion? How much firmer is the clutch? I've felt clutches without an assist and I dunno if I could deal with one on a car I actually own Input/opinions appreciated. TIA.
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