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vfrpilot0

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About vfrpilot0

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  • From
    Little Elm TX
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Porsche 996 Cabriolet
    2003 Cadillac Deville
  1. Thank you for the link to the article. It doesn't sound too bad really, but looks like it'd be easier with an extra set of hands. I'm going to continue researching before I jump one way or the other. The window itself is in decent shape. The rest of the top is is very good shape as well. I'm going to check a couple of other sources to see if I can just repair what I have first. If not, then I'll try to round up a buddy and try to tackle it myself. I'm going to hop over to Pelican parts and see if I can find that link as well. Regards, Allan
  2. I'm having the same issue of separation. Honestly I don't want to try this method(I don't think I could do it cleanly). I stopped at a local shop yesterday and received a quote of $700.00 to re-sew the window. They said it was expensive due to it being labor intensive(taking top off and on). That seemed a bit excessive to me. I have a couple of questions: 1. Does anyone know a reputable shop in the North Dallas area they'd recommend for this type of repair? 2. This is probably a fools errand, but has anyone tried to replace the entire canvas themselves? I've found new complete tops for five to nine hundred dollars. I have the manual to take the top off, but it doesn't go into any detail about removing the canvas. If someone has done their own, how hard was it? who did you buy your top from? Thanks in advance, Allan
  3. Yesterday I noticed about a 5 inch separation in the lower left corner of my plastic window. Both the glue and stitching are affected. I stopped at a local shop and got a quote of $700.00 to fix the problem. That's not to replace the window, that's just to re-sew it. I've read the article about fixing the window myself, but I don't want to do that. I've looked online and found new replacement canvas tops from five to nine hundred dollars. I have two questions: 1. Has anyone replaced their own top? If so, how difficult was it? I have the manual on how to remove the entire top, but it doesn't go into replacing the canvas. 2. I'm assuming trying to replace my own canvas is a fools errand. Does anyone know a reputable shop in the North Dallas area they'd recommend? Thanks in advance, Allan
  4. It's probably not the adjustments, but the latch isn't activating the microswitch in the top center of the windshield. You can test it by pushing it in and seeing if the rear windows will go up. If they do then this is your problem. Here's a link to someone who's already posted about this issue...and if this is your issue the part is 9 bucks on line or fifteen from the dealer. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/37942-convertible-top-latch/page__p__200704__fromsearch__1#entry200704
  5. I think I have the same problem. Need to test it, but your symptoms are the same as mine. Question: How did you do the mod and how did it just snap in?
  6. Odd problem this morning. I put the top down and drove to work. When I arrived at the office I put the top up and the latch in the front center of the top extends out and starts to latch, but immediately unlatches. If I hold the button down It will continue to latch/unlatch. I tried stopping it when it appeared latched, but the rear windows will not roll up indicating the top isn't properly secured. Externally the Top is taut and appears normal. The clam shell functions as it should. No strange noises, just a latch the extends/latches/unlatches. Any ideas? The top went back down without issue.
  7. Update: I figured out why the window wasn't going all the way down. On the regulator I purchased there were three positions for the bottom stop. The top position and the bottom each had a stop in it. I removed the top one and the window retracted properly. Still have the airbag light illuminated on the dash though. Triple verified the connection. so I'm guessing it's going to require a reset of the code???
  8. I'm having a couple of issues after replacing my window regulator on the passenger side. I removed the door panel per instructions on this site. All went smoothly there. Before putting everything back together I connected the battery without the air bag in place. I temporarily hung the door panel and got the window adjusted so it sealed properly in the up position and verified it dropped down properly when the door handle was pulled. After doing that I disconnected the battery again and proceeded to reinstall everything. I installed the airbag and connected the wiring and rehung the door panel. Everything went back together as smoothly as it came apart. My problems are: 1. The airbag indicator on the dash is now illiuminated and won't go out. Do I need to have a shop clear this or should it have cleared on its own? 2. The window goes down, but stops about an inch above the doorframe. I didn't see any adjustment for this, but honestly didn't notice this when I was aligning everything. Is there an adjustment I'm missing? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  9. All, Thank you for the responses. I played with it today and the window does drop each time the door handle is lifted, but it doesn't drop enough(approx 1/8"). I surmise that it is cable stretch on the regulator and I'll see about adjusting it one day when I have a couple hours to disassemble the door. Thanks again - it's really nice to be able to get sound advice on these things - this is my first Porsche and the little things that have popped up in the past year have all been solved via postings on this site.
  10. Thanks for the response. I'll see if there's play first and if not I'll go after the latch. Just curious...how can you be so sure it's the latch? Also, since I've owned the car(10 months) my windows have never dropped 1/2" as described above, they drop maybe 1/4" at most. Is this due to stretched regulator cables? Thanks, Allan
  11. If it is only on one door, AND "it" (no 1/2" drop) does not happen whether you pull on the inner OR the outer door handle, then it is most likely being caused by a faulty or failing window regulator. The window regulator's cable assembly ends up stretching or the cable starts to fray a bit and that amount of play is sufficient to eliminate or greatly reduce the 1/2" drop needed to clear the part of the frame of the convertible top directly above the window and sometimes also not to go back up enough to make a good seal when the door is closed with the window up. That can produce wind noise at speed. One way to help pin down the cause is to see if, after the window goes all the way up, you can press the top of the window down and get a resultant downward move of a fraction of an inch. If it's solid as a rock, it may not be the regulator. If it moves down a little, it's almost certainly the regulator. Replacement after examination is pretty straightforward and there are a couple of DIY's floating around here, including Wayne Dempsey's recent one of one or two days ago on his Pelican Parts web site, in a post here on RennTech. Regards, Maurice. Thanks. I will see if there's any play in the window first. Regards, Allan
  12. Hi all. I have 2000 996 cabriolet. Yesterday my daughter closed the passenger door and it sounded funny. I walked around and the window was barely hitting the plastic on the convertible top, but it was enough to keep the window from sealing against the gasket. I re-shut and it closed fine. What bothers me is the window doesn't appear to drop down an 1/8 of an inch or so when you open the door like it does on the drivers side. So I'm not sure if it's an adjustment issue or if whatever mechanism is used to trigger the drop is bad/out of adjustment or something else. Any thoughts or suggestions? It's just an annoyance right now, but I'd rather solve sooner rather than later. Thanks,
  13. Found the problem. I had opened and closed the hood to show off the engine the other day. The hood was closed, but apparently not all the way. There is a microswitch that needs to be triggered for the dash mounted switch to operate that key/door switch does not check. I opened and closed the hood firmly(slammed it) and now the top works as normal.
  14. Searched the forum and didn't see this problem: I depress the convertible top button in the dash to open or close the Top on my 2000 996 and I can hear a click on the drivers side under the clamshell, but the top will not go up or down. The dash indicator will light while the button is depressed. If I lower or raise the top with the door key it works normally. Any idea what the root cause is?
  15. Performed the service as described in the link. First thing I found was the cable on the passenger side was not connected to the ball link. I thought of just connecting and seeing the result, but was curious about the fluid level so I continued on. I found the fluid level to be low as well. Filled resevoir and put everything back together. Now I've only owned the car for a couple of months, but it is noticeably faster, smoother and quieter than it's ever been since it's been in my possesion. I cycled the top about six times so far.....but I feel fairly confident this was the fix. I'm sure the cable not being connected may have caused part of the issue - i'm thinking maybe the top torques a little bit and causes a bind, but I think the fluild level being low was also a part of the issue. Thanks again.
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