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99911

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Everything posted by 99911

  1. I have a '99 996 with 62K and have tracked down the front end clunking sound to the inner tie rods (most pronounced on the left side) with a mechanic's stethascope. Have ordered the parts, bought the inner tie rod tool from harbor freight in great anticipation of this next project. I just can't seem to find the correct torque spec for screwing the inner tie rods to the rack. Any help will be geatly appreciated. Also should I or Should I not use threadlock/locktite and if so does that affect the torque setting? Thanks in advance.
  2. Is the parking brake warning light working? If the warning light is not coming on with the handbrake engaged, it may be the handbrake switch activated by the handbrake lever is not functioning, which will also keep the top from operating. I changed out the switch on my '99 C2 and everything works great. If the warning light works and the lid operates but the top is not functioning, go for the hydrolic fluid check. Good Luck.
  3. With a very few tools and this site you can do virtually the entire 60K service yourself. Save yourself the $1,200 and gain some experience. I performed the service and then asked the local dealer to check for any trouble codes in the memory. They did that, checked the torque on the front drop links and took the car for a test drive and ran me to the house (in a Volvo) and picked me back up when the car was ready to be picked up. All for the whopping price of ... no charge.
  4. 53 1999 996 Cab. Some thoughts: You only come this way once, might as well walk (drive) around with a smile on your face; Age is just a state of mind (accept for the recent knee surgery, that was definitely a physical manifestation); she's cheaper than having a mistress (so I've heard) unless you lose the IMS. That's except for the knee surgery (which I did have to accept if I ever wanted to be able to get in and out of the Pcar again).
  5. '99 996 C2 3.4 6spd. 60k, Nothing major, just replaced pads and rotors, replaced cab. lid hinge. Original clutch. Ferry would be proud, have put 8k on since 9-09. It's fun - drive it. If it breaks, fix it.
  6. Personally, I'd leave hammering it out, if it comes to that, to a good body shop. The part itself is easy to remove: put the top into the service position (half open); Disconnect the wire for the third light (under the rear shelf carpet; Unscrew the two nuts per hinge holding the lid to the hinges and carefully remove. I would mark the hinge locations on the underside of the lid for easier refitting. One person can do this, but it's a bit easier with someone else to hold the lid steady while you remove the nuts (might want to get someone besides the building super). Refitting is the reverse. Be sure to properly realign the lid with the body before you tighten down the hinge nuts!
  7. Just changed the plugs on my '99 996 Cab. without removing the mufflers as part of the 60K service. Can definitely be done with the right tools and a little patience. Highly recommend getting the magnetic spark plug socket. $5 at O'Reilly's and well worth it (the guy at Sears didn't know what I was talking about). I'll try removing the mufflers next time. This site is GREAT! Did the entire 60K service myself thanks to Loren & Co. and I have no doubt I saved major $$$.
  8. My Porsche is a 1999 996 C2 Cabriolet. The convertible top compartment lid (the “lid”) is attached to the body via two hinges which each have two arms. The front arm on the left hinge was broken, so I replaced the entire hinge, as replacement arms are not available. Here is the step by step process of how I did it :(I had a bunch of great photos with this article, but for some reason they did not copy and paste with the article) (I'm what you might call "format impaired".) : Tools needed: Flat Head Screw Driver 10mm Box Wrench T-30 Torx Bit 13mm Socket Short Socket Extension Electrical Tape Parts Needed: Replacement Hinge Part #996-561-907-02 (Left side) Replacement Seal Part#996-561-904-00 (“Cabrio Plate” in Porsche terminology) 1. Open the top partially so that the top is open about half way and the lid is in the fully open position. 2. Disconnect the cables that keep the rear-most part of the top secure to the car. There is one cable per side. Push the cable inward (toward the center line of the car) to release it from the ball connection. Release both cables. 3. Let the top move forward toward the closed position and push the window section up and out of the way. 4. Use the flat-head screw driver to remove the 4 plugs that keep the rear carpet in place. Remove the carpet, starting at the top and working it around the trim. 5. Once the carpet is out, follow the lid stop light wire down and disconnect it. It simply unplugs. 6. Release the wire from fastening elements (Porsche terminology) on the rear arm of the left hinge. 7. Mark the location of both left and right hinges in relation to the lid, then use the 10mm wrench to remove the 2 nuts securing each hinge to the lid. Prior to removing any parts, cover the drain hole below the hinge with a paper towel to prevent any small bits from falling into it. Once broken loose, they can be turned by finger. (This is probably better done with the assistance of a helper to support the lid, but can be accomplished by one person working alone by removing the rear nuts first and supporting the lid in place with one hand while removing the front nut on each side with the other hand.) Remove the lid from the car by lifting it up off the hinge. 8. (For the left hinge, only.) Remove the plastic fasteners for the lid stop light wire from the hinge for reuse on the replacement hinge. These both just clip on and can be easily remove with needle nosed pliers. 9. Remove the additional flap for reuse with the replacement hinge. The flap is removed by pushing the locking lever forward, then pulling the flap backwards and pulling downwards out from the underside of the hinge top. 10. Undo the motor drive from the hinge rear arm by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. 11. Disconnect the motor drive push rod from the front locking hook at the front of the hinge by releasing the small clip retaining it. It should come off by releasing the locking tab slightly and pushing down at the same time. 12. Remove the motor drive body from the body of the hinge by removing the 2 Torx screws with the T-30 Torx bit. It’s not necessary to remove the pin with the flat head slot on it in order to remove the motor drive from the hinge. It may take a little rocking, but the part should come right off without much effort. 13. To give more play in the hydraulic line to the motor drive to be able to get it well out of the way, with the flat head screwdriver release the tie securing the line to the bottom of the compartment. This just pops off and presses back onto a threaded retainer. 14. Move the motor drive out of the way and with the 13mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt attaching the body of the hinge to the body of the car. The 2 nuts are clearly visible, but the bolt is concealed behind a plug in the trim piece covering the front of the hinge. To access the bolt, remove the plug with the flathead screwdriver. (Be careful not to drop the socket or the bolt behind the trim piece as fishing them back out may be a challenge.) Once the nuts and bolt are removed, the hinge can be gently removed from behind the trim piece by pulling up on the back of the hinge and rotating the entire hinge about 90 degrees counter clockwise and pulling up and back while gently prying up on the trim pice with the other hand. (This is probably the hardest part of the entire procedure.) 15. Adhere the seal to the back of the new hinge replicating the position of the old seal on the old hinge. Clean up around the openings in the body panel to remove debris left behind from the old seal. Remove the backing film from the seal before installing the hinge. Make sure the contact surfaces of the hinge and body are not adhered over by the seal. Installing the new hinge is the reverse of the removal procedure: Work the front of the hinge back behind the trim piece; Attach the hinge to the car body with the 2 13mm nuts and the 13mm bolt and torque to 7.5 ftlb.(I used the electrical tape to temporarily secure the bolt to the socket and the socket to the extension to ensure I didn’t drop either down behind the trim piece.); Attach the motor drive to the hinge body with the 2 long T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Attach the motor drive to the rear hinge arm with the 2 short T-30 Torx screws and torque to 7.5 ftlb.; Reconnect the motor drive pushrod to the lock hook at the front of the hinge with the small clip; Re-secure the hydraulic line tie in the bottom of the compartment; Attach the brake light wire fasteners to the rear arm of the new hinge; Reattach the additional flap by inserting it onto the pins on the underside of the hinge and pulling it forward then pulling the locking lever backward until it locks; Install the lid, leaving the 10 mm nuts slightly loose and press the stop light wire into the plastic fasteners and plug it back into the connection; Reinstall the carpet; Reattach the rear roof cables; Next align the lid, so it will close properly aligned with the body. Using the marks made at the beginning of the process should make this a bit easier.
  9. Cabrio Top Compartment Lid Hinge Replacement My Porsche is a 1999 996 C2 Cabriolet. The convertible top compartment lid (the “lid”) is attached to the body via two hinges which each have two arms. The front arm on the left hinge was broken, so I replaced the entire hinge, as replacement arms are not available. Here is the step by step process of how I did it :(I had a bunch of great photos with this article, but for some reason they did not copy and paste with the article) (I'm what you might call "format impaired".) : Tools needed: Author 99911 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 12/26/2009 08:56 PM
  10. I have a '99 996 Cab. Perfomed the hydrolic reservoir refill described elsewhere here and had great success. Fixed the problem right away. Unfortunately I noticed while performing that maintenance that the left side hinge for the tonneau cover (Porsche calls it the convertible top compartment lid) has one of its two arms broken. I need to replace the hinge and have the parts but could use a little help with the necessary steps. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :renntech:
  11. This fix worked great and was easy to do. The parts guy at the local Porsche dealer confirmed that Pentosin CHF 11s is what they use for the hydrolics. I picked up a liter at the local NAPA for $22 plus tax. Only needed about 100ml, if that, to top up the reservoir. The top goes up and down like a charm now. I just bought this car less than a month ago, unfortunately in performing this fix I discoverer that the forward arm of the left side hinge for the rear tonnou cover is broken. Has anyone seen a thread on replacing that part? I figure since I already have the back carpet out I'm halfway there.
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