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99911

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Everything posted by 99911

  1. Not sure if the tension rope for the 2003 is attached differently or not from the '99. Mine is attached at the top to the roof frame via a small metal grommet-like attachment riveted to the roof hardware. The rivet seems to be the weak link. Replacement of the rivet on the "99 is a fairly straight forward process: Tools: Torx drivers - 15 and 20 Phillips head screwdriver Pop rivet and tool 1. Put the top in the service position; 2. Remove the torx screws holding the roof frame seal onto the most forward piece of roof on the side of the broken cable, and also remove the torx screws securing the front roof frame seal retaining strip ( there is no need to remove the roof latch or either centering journal); 3. Carefully loosen and remove the roof frame seal from the side and front side of the roof frame you are working on. There is probably some water tight goop holding it on at the corner, and there is also a clip retaining it to the roof frame at the corner near the front corner forward-facing torx that had to come out. It has been suggested that not all torx along the front retaining strip need to come out. I removed all of them and completely removed the retaining strip since it seems pretty lightweight, and I did not want to run the risk of twisting it inadvertently. 4. Once the seal is out of the way, the phillips screws retaining the forward-most side frame piece can be accessed and removed. 5. At this point you can access the folded under roof material and carefully fold back the side and front material at the corner and work along the side. There again may be some waterproof goop and/or two sided tape. Be careful not to tear the roof fabric. There is an "L" shaped piece of metal that runs along the side of the front frame piece and that is what the rivet holding the tension rope is attached to in my '99. the roof is attached on the side to this piece via clips. The entire piece is folded over with the roof material still attached to properly align the tension rope spring with the retainer with the replacement rivet all at the same time. This would be a good time for an extra set of helper hands. 6. Pop in the new rivet, and reverse the entire process. Should not take more than 15-20 minutes. Word of caution. Have an extension magnet handy for when you drop the torx screw, or it gets stuck up in the rubber seal but not in line with the screw hole. It's probably not a bad idea to cover with a towel any nearby body opens that a dropped screw might fall into. Next time I'll try to take some pictures.
  2. 121,000 miles on '99 cab., and still going strong. If something breaks, I fix it. As of 9/30/16, right at 132K and still has excellent pressure and temps. Latest DIY was repairing the passenger side tension rope retainer for the cab top. Last year replaced the IACV to address a rough idle. Both were pretty easy operations.
  3. I've added the third radiator. What is the "fan mod" referred to? I just jumped in on this page, so if it's discussed on a previous page, I'll just apologize for my laziness now and get it out of the way. 120,500 miles and counting. (It's my daily driver.)
  4. I picked up Pentosin CHF 11S at the local NAPA for a little over $20.
  5. I have had the book for about a year and have found it to be very helpful. Not unlike this website. :thumbup:
  6. Hey, tolum, I live in Fort Worth. Can tell us what the steering wheel ran you from Dallas Steering Wheel?
  7. My '99 996 Cab. is still running strong at 107K. No real complaints. With the mileage it has now, I just had some preventive maintenance done (ie: water pump, expansion tank, aos, clutch, IMS upgrade). Love the car, but I think the next one will be a coupe.
  8. Yep, wind screen definitely helps, especially if the windows are up. Helps keep the wind off the back of your neck. Wind still blows your hair around. If you can't stand that, dive a coupe. Every time I think about trading the cab. in for a coupe, I get past it in a couple of minutes. Nothing like a little (lot of) fresh air on a cool morning/evening to get things going.
  9. I think I'm going to have to replace the heat exchanger on my '99 Carrera Cab. 6 speed. There is a good how-to here on removing the exchanger but in order to access it I first have to get the wiper linkage and motor out of the way. Does anyone have any tips on the steps necessary to remove the wiper linkage? Obviously, remove wiper arms is probably first on the list, but where do I go from there?
  10. This might be a dumb question, but I'm asking it anyway. I want to replace the heater core/exchanger in my '99 Carrera Cab 6 speed and am thinking about the Uview Airlift system as part of the process. Has anyone used it to purge air from a filled system, or do I need to drain the entire system, replace the core and then refill the whole system using the Airlift? I'd like to avoid draining and refilling the entire system if I can. And while I'm at it, does anyone have the directions for removing the entire wiper linkage with motor? And the torque specs for reinstallation. (Yes, I did a search.)
  11. Oh, as it turns out, the "I93 code" was the station it was stuck on.
  12. As it turns out, it was as easy as pulling the fuse and reinstalling it. All better now. :D
  13. Hard top is definitely quieter, and keeps out those annoying intermittent drips during downpours. It will also improve visability. A suggestion you also might want to think about is investing in the hanging gear and an electric winch. Makes installing and removing a one person operation, plus you can store it by hanging it from the ceiling in your garage when not in use. Definitely worth the price.
  14. Recently had some front bumper damage repaired on the '99 Carrera. Since I got the car back, the radio is stuck on the same channel and none of the buttons (volume, station, preprogrammed) work. The radio is stuck on the channel and volume it was on when left with the repair shop. When I turn the ignition off and back on, the dial displays "PORSCHE" then "I93". Does anyone have any suggestions?
  15. This may help. http://www.renntech....__fromsearch__1 Although I don't have the light washers on mine.
  16. Yes, the power bleeder has a cap on the end of a rubber tube that goes on the master cylinder. 250ml per wheel should be more than enough to flush the line and the caliper at each wheel. Some people change brake fluid colors at each flush, but you can pretty much tell just by looking when the old fluid is out and clean fluid is coming through. Make sure you keep the power bleeder tank sufficiently full so you dont push air into the line and have start all over again. Start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, and don't over pressurize -- I did mine with about 10psi and it worked fine. And remember that brake fluid eats paint, so be very careful to avoid leaks/drips. This is a really easy procedure to do, and by doing it yourself you'll probably save $150, which more than pays for the cost of the power bleeder. quote name='andolyn' timestamp='1289787519' post='190030'] Replaced the spark plugs. I should have taken pictures of the old versus the new. The old ones were ready to be replaced. No issues. all boots were good. No cracks or anything. The most rear cylinder on the passenger side and the middle cylinder on the driver side were the most difficult. But it took all of 30 minutes with the mufflers out. Took the car for a test drive. No issues or lights. As for the brake service: Do you attach the power bleeder cap to where the cap on the master cylinder is and allow the pressure to sent the fluid through the system by bleeding in the order the DIY shows? How do you know when you have emptied enough out of each brake? Also the Fister Mode is worth every cent. Just great folks to deal with and It they sound great ! Thanks for any info Robert
  17. Those little bulbs get HOT!! - I felt it after I raised the hood. I've given up and ordered a new latch/switch from Gaudin JPAM and will install this weekend. Loren - any recommendation for the correct torque on the two hex head screws that hold the latch? They are pretty small so I don't imagine they need much. Could not help asking - how do you know the light is on when the hood is closed? :P Also, not sure if non-cab's do this but on my Boxster I get a single beep if the center console is not closed all the way.
  18. I agree with Dharn55. Check the hydrolic fluid level. I had exactly the same symptoms. I added some hydrolic fluid with a baby syringe (free from my local pharmacy) and a bit of rubber tubing, and the top has worked like a charm ever since. While you have everything apart, its probably a good idea to lube the joints while you're at it.
  19. Ok, Try to figure this one out. I too had the sticking latch isssue with my '99 Carrera Cab. Took the latch out, took the micro switch off the latch, put a little torque on the spring end to give it a little more "spring". Put the microswitch back on and reinstalled the latch in the car. Latch works like it did before it got stuck (not great, but good enough). New problem -- one beep when setting the alarm that I did not have before, and now the trunk light comes on with the hood latched but won't work when the hood is open. Anyone have any ideas? I've taken out the hood light bulb to keep the battery from running down. Is the microswitch now screwed up too? Loren -- any suggestions?? Is time to buy a new latch and microswitch, or is there some gremlin at work here? Yes, it beeps the horn - once for open zone(s) or twice for an alarm system fault.
  20. How long has it been since the brakes were flushed? This is easy to do with a power bleeder and should be done every couple of years.
  21. This is a job I have been putting off doing on my '99 Carrera Cab. As it turned out, it was pretty easy to do. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, so you will have to settle for the narrative: I was in a bit of a hurry, and I'm somewhat format impaired and don't know how to get the pictures small enough to be able to attach. Sorry for that, but here goes with the directions. Someone with really small hands might be able to do this without removing the reservoir - not me. Tools: Phillip #2 screwdriver T-25 torx driver Small prying tool Small flat head screwdriver 10mm socket 13mm socket 19mm socket Floor jack and jack stand Torque wrench Parts: Pump - Part #996 628 172 00 Grommet - Part # 431955465B This job involves access from two directions: under the left front fender; and, under the left side cowl cover under the trunk lid. 1. With the parking brake engaged and right rear wheel chucked, loosen the left front wheel lugs (19 mm socket) then jack up the left side using the rear left side jacking point and put a jack stand under the left front jacking point. 2. Remove the left front wheel and set aside. 3. Remove the left front wheel housing liner. The liner is secured by a combination of plastic nuts, expansion rivets and phillip head screws. The plastic nuts take a 10mm socket. I used a flat head screw driver to pry the expansion rivet heads up and then a pair of dikes to get behind the head of the rivet and pull it straight out. The phillip head screws and an expansion rivet attach the liner to the front bumper. Once all the fasteners are removed, the liner comes out pretty easily. 4. With the liner out, you can now see the reservoir up behind the fender, between the wheel well and the driver's door. Disconnect the hose from the top where it connects to a nipple on the filler neck bracket and pull it down to let the reservoir drain. If the reservoir is full, it holds about two gallons, and at about 8 pounds per gallon, draining it just makes the job easier. The empty reservoir is considerably lighter and easier to work with, particularly since you have to do a bit of gymnastics to get it out and disconnected. 5. Once the reservoir is drained, open the front compartment lid and remove the left side cowl cover in order to expose the filler neck. This requires the T-25 torx bit for the screw and your fingers for the other fastener (not sure what that one's called). Once the filler neck is exposed, you'll see a small plastic tab on the top of the neck where the filler neck passes into the bracket through which it goes to enter the reservoir. Gently lift the snap tab while you pull straight out on the neck and it will come out of the grommet in the side of the reservoir. This requires a little finesse, but again, should come out pretty easily. 6. With the filler neck removed, the reservoir comes out by removing the 13mm bolt securing the reservoir to the fender area on the front inboard side of the reservoir. There is only one and it's pretty hard to miss. With the 13mm bolt removed, the reservoir comes out straight forward. Don't pull too far, because you still have to disconnect the wire connectors to the tank gauge switch and the connection to the pump motor. I used a small flat head to pry the snap up slightly and then pull up on the connectors. 7. With the reservoir out from behind the fender, it is simply a matter of pulling off the old pump motor and replacing it with the new one. I went ahead and replaced the small grommet that receives the pump on the reservoir while I was at it. It just pulls out and then you press the new one in - just be sure it seats properly. 8. Once the new pump is in place, just reverse the order of the process to put it all back together. Make sure the electrical connections are on all the way (the pump connection will only go on one way). On the back of the reservoir are two stubs with rubber grommets that go into two receiver holes. The two stubs push straight in to those two holes. I put a little Ruglide on the grommets and they popped right in to their receivers. When the tab on the reservoir is lined up with the hole for the 13mm bolt you'll know you have it fully seated and lined up correctly. I also added small hose clamps to the hose where it attaches to the pump and also to the bracket. I don't know the torque setting for the bolt securing the reservoir. I snugged it enough to keep it tight without damaging the plastic of the reservoir. The plastic nuts securing the liner similarly should not be over tightened as they look like they could strip out pretty easily. The correct torque for the wheel lugs is 96 foot pounds. My 911 is my daily driver, so it's nice to be able to clean the windshield on the fly again! (Or is that the fly on the windshield?)
  22. How to replace windshield washer pump This is a job I have been putting off doing on my '99 Carrera Cab. As it turned out, it was pretty easy to do. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, so you will have to settle for the narrative: I was in a bit of a hurry, and I'm somewhat format impaired and don't know how to get the pictures small enough to be able to attach. Sorry for that, but here goes with the directions. Someone with really small hands might be able to do this without removing the reservoir - not me. Tools: Phillip # Author 99911 Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 09/16/2010 04:45 PM Updated 09/16/2010 05:11 PM
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