99911

Not sure if the tension rope for the 2003 is attached differently or not from the '99.  Mine is attached at the top to the roof frame via a small metal grommet-like attachment riveted to the roof hardware.  The rivet seems to be the weak link.  Replacement of the rivet on the "99 is a fairly straight forward process:

Tools:

Torx drivers - 15 and 20

Phillips head screwdriver

Pop rivet and tool

1.  Put the top in the service position;

2.  Remove the  torx screws holding the roof frame seal onto the most forward piece of roof on the side of the broken cable, and also remove the torx screws securing the front  roof frame seal retaining strip ( there is no need to remove the roof latch or either centering journal);

3.  Carefully loosen and remove the roof frame seal from the side and front side of the roof frame you are working on.  There is probably some water tight goop holding it on at the corner, and there is also a clip retaining it to the roof frame at the corner near the front corner forward-facing torx that had to come out.  It has been suggested that not all torx along the front retaining strip need to come out.  I removed all of them and completely removed the retaining strip since it seems pretty lightweight, and I did not want to run the risk of twisting it inadvertently. 

4.  Once the seal is out of the way, the phillips screws retaining the forward-most side frame piece can be accessed and removed. 

5.  At this point you can access the folded under roof material and carefully fold back the side and front material at the corner and work along the side.  There again may be some waterproof goop and/or two sided tape.  Be careful not to tear the roof fabric.

There is an "L" shaped piece of metal that runs along the side of the front frame piece and that is what the rivet holding the tension rope is attached to in my '99.  the roof is attached on the side to this piece via clips.  The entire piece is folded over with the roof material still attached to properly align the tension rope spring with the retainer with the replacement rivet all at the same time.  This would be a good time for an extra set of helper hands. 

6.  Pop in the new rivet, and reverse the entire process. 

Should not take more than 15-20 minutes.  Word of caution.  Have an extension magnet handy for when you drop the torx screw, or it gets stuck up in the rubber seal but not in line with the screw hole.  It's probably not a bad idea to cover with a towel any nearby body opens that a dropped screw might fall into.  Next time I'll try to take some pictures.

121,000 miles on '99 cab., and still going strong. If something breaks, I fix it.  As of 9/30/16, right at 132K and still has excellent pressure and temps.  Latest DIY was repairing the passenger side tension rope retainer for the cab top.  Last year replaced the IACV to address a rough idle.  Both were pretty easy operations.

I've added the third radiator. What is the "fan mod" referred to? I just jumped in on this page, so if it's discussed on a previous page, I'll just apologize for my laziness now and get it out of the way. 120,500 miles and counting. (It's my daily driver.)

I picked up Pentosin CHF 11S at the local NAPA for a little over $20.

I have had the book for about a year and have found it to be very helpful. Not unlike this website. :thumbup:

Hey, tolum, I live in Fort Worth. Can tell us what the steering wheel ran you from Dallas Steering Wheel?

My '99 996 Cab. is still running strong at 107K. No real complaints. With the mileage it has now, I just had some preventive maintenance done (ie: water pump, expansion tank, aos, clutch, IMS upgrade). Love the car, but I think the next one will be a coupe.

Yep, wind screen definitely helps, especially if the windows are up. Helps keep the wind off the back of your neck. Wind still blows your hair around. If you can't stand that, dive a coupe. Every time I think about trading the cab. in for a coupe, I get past it in a couple of minutes. Nothing like a little (lot of) fresh air on a cool morning/evening to get things going.

Excellent, Doohan! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks

I think I'm going to have to replace the heat exchanger on my '99 Carrera Cab. 6 speed. There is a good how-to here on removing the exchanger but in order to access it I first have to get the wiper linkage and motor out of the way. Does anyone have any tips on the steps necessary to remove the wiper linkage? Obviously, remove wiper arms is probably first on the list, but where do I go from there?

Coolant was replaced along with the water pump less than six months ago.

This might be a dumb question, but I'm asking it anyway. I want to replace the heater core/exchanger in my '99 Carrera Cab 6 speed and am thinking about the Uview Airlift system as part of the process. Has anyone used it to purge air from a filled system, or do I need to drain the entire system, replace the core and then refill the whole system using the Airlift? I'd like to avoid draining and refilling the entire system if I can. And while I'm at it, does anyone have the directions for removing the entire wiper linkage with motor? And the torque specs for reinstallation. (Yes, I did a search.)

Oh, as it turns out, the "I93 code" was the station it was stuck on.

As it turns out, it was as easy as pulling the fuse and reinstalling it. All better now. :D

Hard top is definitely quieter, and keeps out those annoying intermittent drips during downpours. It will also improve visability. A suggestion you also might want to think about is investing in the hanging gear and an electric winch. Makes installing and removing a one person operation, plus you can store it by hanging it from the ceiling in your garage when not in use. Definitely worth the price.

Recently had some front bumper damage repaired on the '99 Carrera. Since I got the car back, the radio is stuck on the same channel and none of the buttons (volume, station, preprogrammed) work. The radio is stuck on the channel and volume it was on when left with the repair shop. When I turn the ignition off and back on, the dial displays "PORSCHE" then "I93". Does anyone have any suggestions?

Hi: Ive got a leak near the reservoir in my 996 w/ Litronic lights & spritzers. Removed inner wheel well. Leak seemed to be coming from the tank. CI Can't figure-out how to remove the Tank(reservoir).I've looked for answers on the web & on my Maint CD to no avail.Thanks

This may help. http://www.renntech....__fromsearch__1 Although I don't have the light washers on mine.

Yes, the power bleeder has a cap on the end of a rubber tube that goes on the master cylinder. 250ml per wheel should be more than enough to flush the line and the caliper at each wheel. Some people change brake fluid colors at each flush, but you can pretty much tell just by looking when the old fluid is out and clean fluid is coming through. Make sure you keep the power bleeder tank sufficiently full so you dont push air into the line and have start all over again. Start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, and don't over pressurize -- I did mine with about 10psi and it worked fine. And remember that brake fluid eats paint, so be very careful to avoid leaks/drips. This is a really easy procedure to do, and by doing it yourself you'll probably save $150, which more than pays for the cost of the power bleeder. quote name='andolyn' timestamp='1289787519' post='190030']

Replaced the spark plugs. I should have taken pictures of the old versus the new. The old ones were ready to be replaced. No issues. all boots were good. No cracks or anything. The most rear cylinder on the passenger side and the middle cylinder on the driver side were the most difficult. But it took all of 30 minutes with the mufflers out. Took the car for a test drive. No issues or lights.

As for the brake service: Do you attach the power bleeder cap to where the cap on the master cylinder is and allow the pressure to sent the fluid through the system by bleeding in the order the DIY shows?

How do you know when you have emptied enough out of each brake? Also the Fister Mode is worth every cent. Just great folks to deal with and It they sound great !

Thanks for any info

Robert

Those little bulbs get HOT!! - I felt it after I raised the hood. I've given up and ordered a new latch/switch from Gaudin JPAM and will install this weekend. Loren - any recommendation for the correct torque on the two hex head screws that hold the latch? They are pretty small so I don't imagine they need much.

...and now the trunk light comes on with the hood latched but won't work when the hood is open...

Could not help asking - how do you know the light is on when the hood is closed? :P

Also, not sure if non-cab's do this but on my Boxster I get a single beep if the center console is not closed all the way.

I agree with Dharn55. Check the hydrolic fluid level. I had exactly the same symptoms. I added some hydrolic fluid with a baby syringe (free from my local pharmacy) and a bit of rubber tubing, and the top has worked like a charm ever since. While you have everything apart, its probably a good idea to lube the joints while you're at it.

I have a 1999 C4 Cabriolet. I use the convertible top often down here in Florida. For the past week, I have noticed it takes the top more time to open and close during the cycle when the actual top is moving (not the shell). Now I have to manually help the top to complete the opening and closing cycle by pulling or pushing the top when opening and closing mid cycle. Any thoughts/suggestions?

Eric

Ok, Try to figure this one out. I too had the sticking latch isssue with my '99 Carrera Cab. Took the latch out, took the micro switch off the latch, put a little torque on the spring end to give it a little more "spring". Put the microswitch back on and reinstalled the latch in the car. Latch works like it did before it got stuck (not great, but good enough). New problem -- one beep when setting the alarm that I did not have before, and now the trunk light comes on with the hood latched but won't work when the hood is open. Anyone have any ideas? I've taken out the hood light bulb to keep the battery from running down. Is the microswitch now screwed up too? Loren -- any suggestions?? Is time to buy a new latch and microswitch, or is there some gremlin at work here?

Loren- do you mean one beep from the horn? Mine has done that since I got it. Well I guess I will put that on the list, but right now it is low on the list.

Yes, it beeps the horn - once for open zone(s) or twice for an alarm system fault.

How long has it been since the brakes were flushed? This is easy to do with a power bleeder and should be done every couple of years.

Took off my mufflers this morning. Could not believe how easy it was! Thanks to the previous folks that have done it and posted here. Took maybe 15 minutes a side. Left the tires on. Did not need to remove the bumper either. Had to jack the Rear End up to get them out though.

Mailing them monday morning To Fister D for the 996 stage II. Any suggestions of maintaince i might do while their gone? Spark plugs for sure. Already drained the oil and filter. And replaced the Air filter.

She's a 2001 with 20K on her.

20K??? You need to drive that thing!

Took off my mufflers this morning. Could not believe how easy it was! Thanks to the previous folks that have done it and posted here. Took maybe 15 minutes a side. Left the tires on. Did not need to remove the bumper either. Had to jack the Rear End up to get them out though.

Mailing them monday morning To Fister D for the 996 stage II. Any suggestions of maintaince i might do while their gone? Spark plugs for sure. Already drained the oil and filter. And replaced the Air filter.

She's a 2001 with 20K on her.

I have a '99 996 with 62K and have tracked down the front end clunking sound to the inner tie rods (most pronounced on the left side) with a mechanic's stethascope. Have ordered the parts, bought the inner tie rod tool from harbor freight in great anticipation of this next project. I just can't seem to find the correct torque spec for screwing the inner tie rods to the rack. Any help will be geatly appreciated. Also should I or Should I not use threadlock/locktite and if so does that affect the torque setting? Thanks in advance.