0Bosxter0

I have a 2000 Porsche Boxster with about 62K miles.

Ive had the car on jack stands for about the last two weeks (I had the wheels powder coated and painted the calipers).

While the car was on stands I did two other things, I removed the factory head unit and amp and installed an aftermarket unit. And I replaced the gauge pod with one from a 2000 boxster S as mine had gotten discolored.

Upon starting the car for the first time after getting her back on the ground she sputtered and I though she was going to die... i tapped the gas slightly and she seemed to come to life but there seemed to be a delay from when i hit the gas and the RPM increase. I let her sit and run for a while and she seemed to level out, I thought it was maybe the computers resetting after sitting for so long with no battery. I took the car around the block to test a suspension fix I had just completed and the car seemed OK.

I pulled in the driveway and let her idle for a bit but the idle wasnt right, she seemed to be go up to about 1K then come back down. I let her sit and idle like this for a few minutes and she seemed to be OK. It seemed like she was sucking in a LOT of air from the passenger side air duct though.

I let her run for a few minutes and when I got back in the "engine" light was on?! That scared the hell out of me so I immediately shut down. I let her sit for about a minute then started her back up to pull into the garage. The check engine light was no longer on and she seemed to run OK for the 13 feet into the garage?!

I haven't run her since.

**What could have caused this??

***Id be surprised it was the after market radio unless the amp is pulling to much power from the battery?

***Also would the Boxster S gauge pod that I installed have this effect on the car? Ive read the car needs to re-"learn" some of the electronics when their replaced, is this true with the pod?

OK, so its Saturday morning and Ive decided i'm going to get the rear drivers side track arm replaced... or die trying. I printed out a walkthrought that I believe CJ_Boxster posted on here that detailed step-by-step how to replace the arm. It took me all in all about two hours.

I jacked the wheel up, removed the plastic housing in the wheel well, removed the bolt attaching the arm to the wheel assembly then the bolt that attached the arm to the chassis. Both bolts were extremely difficult to loosen, especially the one attaching the arm to the chassis! That one took a LOT of motivation!

I reinstalled the new arm in reverse order. It was a little tough to get the arm back in place. Then it was even more difficult to get the bushing aligned correctly so that the bolt would fit in the hole where the arm attached to the chassis. I managed to get it all lined up and torqued back on. Put the wheel back on and took the vehicle for a spin.

I started the car (which was a little weird, see my other post), let her run for a few minutes than took her around the block and down the street.

The CLUNKING NOISE WAS GONE!!! So this fix did remedy the clunking noise for me!

Problem... SOLVED!

Yeah I know - I thought the same, but thought I would start off with the easy things to try. Only takes 30 seconds to strip the boot out and go for a drive up the street!

Sam

OK, I got the rear track arm yesterday... I doubt ill have time tonight but Im going to try and find the time to do it tomorrow. Once its complete ill post some pics and results...

Sad to say it, but I think the G2's failure to adhere was due to overprepping. I think the dremel brush, which was meant to rough-up the surface for adhesion put too fine of a sanding on it. I've seen cars that were sanded with too fine a grit before being sprayed, and they have terrible adhesion. Then after a few years the paint will just start coming off in large flakes. A very light spray of a good base coat would have probably done the trick with the G2, but I'm glad you found a solution, and it looks like it does a better job anyway.

I suppose thats a possibility as well... haha, too much prep work, I never thought that would be the case, kind of ironic!

I really was looking forward to the G2 working but it seems like there are so many variables that can affect the way it adheres/cures to the caliper that its just not worth the gamble. Too hot, to cold, not enough prep, too much prep, water on the caliper, residue on the caliper... I did everything I could thin of to ensure the calipers were as ready as possible and I still failed.

I still like the idea of the G2 being an epoxy more than a paint.

Oh well, hopefully this will help someone whether the try a spray on product or a paint on like G2!

-Ben

from what i've heard, the Bose sub didn't give the amount of bass you would expect from a subwoofer. plus it was crazy expensive.

personally, i'd look for a slim-line compact sub (like the Kenwood KSC-SW1) or a custom sub from Monney.com.

here's a pic of the KSC-SW1 - i'll be buying one this week.

this page briefly compares 3 of the smaller subs.

http://www.bizrate.com/carsubwoofers/produ...226250--on.html

custom from Monney...

just my $.02

Chris,

Did you purchase the Kenwood? Just wondering if you got it and how it sounds??

-Ben

Is the VHT red a close match to the red that Porsche uses?

Phillipj,

It looks very close from I can tell. I haven't had the car next to an original yet but if I can ill get some pictures of it next to a Porsche with the OEM red calipers.

-Ben

So here it is, completed.

I think it turned out pretty well. I ordered the decals then covered them in a can of VHT clear caliper paint.

Now we'll see how long these suckers hold up!?

-Ben

Congrats! Looks great! This is high on my list of things I would love to do but keep putting off because it looks very involving. Success (in the end) stories like this is giving me some more confidence though. B)

Atle

Atle,

Its worth trying if you enjoy the look. There wasn't a whole lot of skill involved just careful patience! All in all it probably took about 4 days to complete because I tried to let the paint get pretty dry between coats.

-Ben

What shop did you use for the powder coat on your wheels and do you have pictures of them yet? I'm in the PHX area too and would like to see the results.

Lyn

Lyn,

I got them back yesterday. The shop did a fantastic job. I attached a picture that I took with my phone, I can post some better ones tonight.

The shop quoted me $325 but because they weren't able to sand blast them (because of all the nooks and crannies) they had to do a chemical dip which ended up being an extra $25 per wheel. The shop was willing to split this cost with me so they ate $50 and I ate $50 costing me $375 total.

They also just donated a free car detailing to the Arizona chapter of the PCA.

This is the first time I've had anything done through these guys and after my experience I would recommend them. I plan on bringing a few things back to them for paint work in the near future.

The shop is http://firstclassautoaz.com/

-Ben

Ok, let us know how it goes. Does your sound come from the top, under the convertible cover when you go over bumps at slower speeds, and sometimes when you shift out of 1st?

Kind of...

My noise is only heard between 5-30ish miles per hour going over small bumps. It sounds like its coming from the rear suspension. Changing gears has never exemplified the noise.

You may want to check a motor mount. From what ive heard acceleration can cause a clunking sound in the motor mount. Maybe some of the more experienced guys can elaborate on that more than I can.

Although I would never do it... I have to admit it looks pretty freakin cool..

Just one question though.. Why is the car being painted with the bumper covers on it? Flame me if it wasn't...

I know, I wanted to strip the whole thing down and paint her. One of my friends has paint booth and we did it at his place. We will be tearing some of her apart at a later date and playing some more!

The paint on the car was perfect but some lady pulled into a parking spot and bumped the front bumper while I was getting a haircut and it pushed it into a pole. Needless to say I had to paint the front and rear bumpers so we ended up doing the whole car.

The military doesn't pay me enough to have everything done at a shop so I try to do as much on my own as I can!

Thats why i'm so great full places like Renntech exist! You guys have probably saved me 5 grand over the past month or so!!

Either way the paint turned out beautiful!

Hey guys, I’m having the same exact problem. My car is a 2000 Boxster with 92K on it. My dad took a look at it and saw that the top of the rear strut mount has to much flex and may be hitting the tower. We haven’t replaced the bushing yet, but we will try to this weekend. I just wanted to throw this out there as another culprit.

BTW, my dad also took a look at all mounts, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc and all seem to be checking out well.

I will keep everyone updated as well. That noise needs to be gone, its annoying.

Ive been reading alot on this problem. I havent heard many people talking about the strut mount but its worth a look. Be sure and check your sway bar for looseness.

From what Ive been told from others that have had this problem and it 'has' been the rear track arm, because of the very small tolerances you cant tell what the problem is without replacing, or at the very least removing the part.

I ended up ordering an OEM part from pelican. I hope to have it on the car within a week. Ill update then as to whether or not it solved the issue.

Do a search here for how to remove/replace the headlight switch. I would remove it and see if something is damaged or broken.

Worst case just get a new headlight switch - they do wear out.

I think I found it! Ill give it a shot tonight after work!

Thanks Loren!

haha, I actually like the flat. I was just worried it would take something away from the car!

Im kind of suprised more people dont think its blasphemous to paint the German flat!

If it's surface slime, all of above, If it has penetrated the surface, I'd contact Maquires and ask them what the 'ef. There are some animal fats of some sorts in some leather "rejuvinators" that can permanently scar poly carbonate. But I wouldn't think a cleaner would have it.

Regards, PK

its really odd, ive tried some of the stuff I have around the house to clean it, windex, soapy water etc...

But I cant even feel the residue on the gauge. Although it looks like drips and spatter its completely smooth??!!

Hmmmm? You mean when you turn switch counterclockwise it doesn't snap back down? Or it snaps down/off but the fogs still come on without pulling the switch?

What happens when you pull to turn on the rear fog?

Correct, it wont snap back down to lay flush. It doesnt matter which direction I turn it the darn thing wont push back in.

I can turn it to all the settings but I cant turn off the front fog lights...

Im not sure what the mechanicals behind the dial look like so I dont want to try and force it in and break it.

Well I broke down and bought number eight, the rear track arm. Should be here by the end of the week. I snap her on and see what happens from there!

A friends child was playing in the car when she turned the headlights on. I gently coaxed the kid out of my car and tried to turn the headlights off, they truned of fine. But that "pull" feaure to torn the fog lights on is now allways on the "on" position?! If I turn the headlights on, the fogs come on as well. I can no longer run the headlights independently.

I cant see to push the dial back into the dash?

Any takers??

-Ben

Not sure what you mean?

Best posts? best DIY Articles?

I would think it would depend on your model and interests?

BTW... there is a new forum coming when I get some of the mods updated. Things like the Registry, and new DIY section that separates the original DIY Article from the responses - though the responses are linked to the article --kind of "Wiki style". Also PMs will get threading so you can have private "conversations" with other members and it track like a threaded post.

Support for OpenID and Facebook Connect as well as a mobile skin to make browsing on your phone or other mobile device much easier.

Here is another look at the work in progress...

Oh know, another reason for me to be on Facebook!! The addiction continues!!

So here it is, completed.

I think it turned out pretty well. I ordered the decals then covered them in a can of VHT clear caliper paint.

Now we'll see how long these suckers hold up!?

-Ben

Ben:

Nice job! :cheers:

Considering how thoroughly you prepped them before painting, they should last a long, long time.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice,

I hope you're right!!

Respectfully,

Ben

Last night I was a little bored and since I have about eight yards of slate colored Ultrasuede left over from my custom radio bezel I decided to use some on my boring factory shifter.

What do you guys think?

D.

im diggin it!

During the process of cleaning the leather in my 00 Bosxter I got some over spray from some Maguires Leather cleaner on me gauge faces. I immediately wiped them off but the gauges were ruined. Has this happened to anyone else out there?? Is it fixable or am I screwed?? its VERY noticeable.

Respectfully,

-Ben

So here it is, completed.

I think it turned out pretty well. I ordered the decals then covered them in a can of VHT clear caliper paint.

Now we'll see how long these suckers hold up!?

-Ben

Here it is installed in case anyone was interested.

Its actually a pretty nice alternative to a double din install.

It has everything but GPS. Bluetooth, ipod, thumb drive, plays DVD's, you name it!

Ill probably reroute the USB input into one of the little storage bays.

My apologizes about the dust, she has been sitting in the garage for two weeks now waiting for wheels! And that darn camera picks up every dust particle!

-Ben

It was very close in person to the way it looks in the pictures. In fact I may have even liked it better in person.

A friend of mine does paint and he did it for me. I gave him some cash on the side and paid for all the supplies. I think I paid around $700-800 in just supplies. He even had some of the stuff left over from a previous job that I didn't have to pay for. I think he said he would normally charge around 4K for a job like the one he did.

I recently had the car painted and I snapped a few pictures of it before they applied the layers of clear.

I almost had them leave the flat blue on it but chickened out at the last second.

Anyone here like it?

-Ben