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0Bosxter0
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Hey all, Just got back from anooother deployment (that makes 4) and pulled the boxster out for some fun. I took it into a local shop and had them give her the once over, change the oil, fuel filter, air filter, all that good stuff and she has been running well for about a week. A few days ago coming home from a PCA meeting I noticed a loud metallic clicking coming from the rear of the car, only at slow speeds 5mph and under. I thought it was probable just a stick or something caught in the lobster claws since we had just had a wind storm and debris was all over the road. I had my girlfriend jump out of the car to see if she could hear anything from outside the vehicle, but as soon as she exited the noise disappeared...? Today on my way to the gym the noise re-emerged... This time i got out of the car in the driveway turned off the engine and gave her a push, and sure enough I could hear the click from the passenger side right wheel well. The click increased in tempo as the car increased in speed. I felt around and couldn't find anything rubbing....? Any suggestions? I thought it might have something to do with the E-brake? possibility maybe? It does seem that as I increase in speed the noise disappears, although that could just be my imagination or being drowned out by wind.... Any help is appreciated! Thanks Guys! Respectfully, Ben
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I am currently away for work but my GF has recently contacted me and told me that she has had some issues putting up the windows on my MY00 Boxster. I did a quick few searches and saw allot of regulator problems but none seemed to match what she described to me. After getting in the car she put the window down and said it made a horrible scraping\grinding sound. She then tried to put the window up using the "auto up" feature and it made the same sound. The window went all the way up, then after closing automatically started on the way back down making the same sound. She then held the window up button. The window closed but still made the sound. She hasn't touched the car since. I apologize if this topic has been covered but I didn't see anything like this anywhere else. Has anyone ever heard of this or experienced it? Respectfully, Ben
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Ebay Short Shifter Vs B & M
0Bosxter0 replied to DamageINC123's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I cant speak for the ebay shifter, but I recently purchased a B&M from bumperplugs. I installed the unit myself. I was pretty surprised at how easy the installation was and how well made the shifter was. I havent been able to get the shifter to self center yet but I havent had much time to play with it. All in all, id recommend the B&M. The shifts are crisp and smooth, a bit notchy but in a good way. Id say for something that is used as much as the shifter put in the extra $$$ -
I recently purchased a B&M shifter from Bumperplugs and also had a great experience with them. Strongly recommended!
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Interesting, My car has the same issue... I havent checked the power steering fluid yet but ill do it tonight. Does anyone have any insight as to what adding power steering fluid would change to correct this issue? Respectfully, Ben
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Well I sprung for the B&M and got the replacement metal shift link for $110... Ive installed it and now Im having some issues... First, the shifter is not returning to center, not sure what the mechanics are behind this...? Second, the shifter is making a "clunk" sound when moving into any of the top (1,3,5 gears). I read about this somewhere else, I think the BM shifter is hitting the housing that supports it...? OK... good news, adjusting the linkage a little fixed the clunk. Still doesn't return to center? Is this something takes a little "wearing in"?
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Well I sprung for the B&M and got the replacement metal shift link for $110... Ive installed it and now Im having some issues... First, the shifter is not returning to center, not sure what the mechanics are behind this...? Second, the shifter is making a "clunk" sound when moving into any of the top (1,3,5 gears). I read about this somewhere else, I think the BM shifter is hitting the housing that supports it...?
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Hard to tell from the pictures but the VHT and the G2 are pretty much the same color. The G2 may have been a shade or two darker. I used two full cans of color spray and a full color of clear.
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So I got the 7mm H&R's, I installed them a few days ago along with the longer bolts and I havent noticed any rubbing. What were your rear tires rubbing against? -ben
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I thought that since I had narrowed it to two specific issues it might have warranted a new thread, my apologies... I think I may have fixed the issue however, I believe it was the ground. This thread can be deleted...
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I recently installed an amp\sub in the car. Unfortunately after powering up the CEL came on. In my attempt to diagnose the problem I unhooked the amp from the battery. Its been almost two days now and no more CEL. Loren was able to elaborate on the code... P0650 Check Engine Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) – Open Circuit Fault area – Break in wiring – Short to ground – Short to B+ (+12 volts) That leads me to believe that something with the AMP is causing the CEL. My guess either a bad ground, or the amp is drawing too much power from the battery causing other systems in the car to fail. (I haven't noticed any other issues with the car) So my question is two-fold... 1) Will a bad ground cause the CEL to come on? 2) Will a heavy draw from the battery cause the CEL to come on? (im considering going to buy a Optima Red top tonight and see if that helps at all) Any suggestions? Thanks again!!
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Ive been thinking about tackling the short shifter switch for my next project. I did a quick search on ebay and they have a pretty wide selection, anywhere from $90 to $250...? All the pictures look pretty much the same. Vertex has a schnell for $150... Anyone have any insight on whats good and what isnt?
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Kevin, From what I can tell the gauge cluster seems OK... Everything is functioning on it. Im leaning more towards a wiring mixup with the new CD/DVD player I installed. I got conflicting wiring info from Crutchfield and the instructions they sent. Im going to take the car to the gym tonight and leave the CD player faceplate at home and see if I get the CEL. OK, so last night I began de-engineering, everything I had done over the past week in an attempt to figure out what is causing the P0650 CEL light to come on. First I disconnected the head unit thinking it might have been a wire mix-up in the harness - Light stayed on. I plugged the radio back in. Next I disconnected the power supply from the amp to the battery in the hood, the light went out. I took the car shopping last night and drove into work this morning and the CEL light remains out with the power supply to the amp disconnected. I did a few google searches this morning and have found a few posts from others with other vehicles that a bad ground set off the CEL. I have the sub/amp sitting on the engine cover behind the seats the best place I could find to ground the amp (without drilling into anything) was to the metal engine cover behind the seats...?? Would a bad ground cause the P0650 fault? Is there a better place to ground the amp? Can I ground using the same ground the radio in the dash uses? Respeftfully, Ben
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Kevin, From what I can tell the gauge cluster seems OK... Everything is functioning on it. Im leaning more towards a wiring mixup with the new CD/DVD player I installed. I got conflicting wiring info from Crutchfield and the instructions they sent. Im going to take the car to the gym tonight and leave the CD player faceplate at home and see if I get the CEL.
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One of the best car shows around! U can usually find the new episodes for download as they come out!