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Everything posted by jplumlee

  1. Hey guys, several months ago I posted about a transmission problem i was having where my 04CS would not shift out of low 4. anyway I replaced the transfer-case servo motor but it didn't fix the problem. So through a few conversations with guys that know more than I, it looks like even after the servo replacement, I need to clear the old config/setup from the old motor. And we couldn't do it with any of the aftermarket scan tools we had available Does that even make sense or has anyone experienced that? anyhoo I thought Id find an independent in DFW to look at it and see if they can get the
  2. doing the same thing. Can't switch out of low 4wd. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to try next? I was thinking about replacing the running gear switch on the center console but not sure of the part number or how to get the console apart to get at it. Is there a fuse that runs that servo motor? My mechaninc cant feel any thing with his hand on the servo motor as I run the switch so it may not be getting power. any help is much appreciated. Here is a link to the previous thread... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45593-04-cayenne-stuck-in-4wd-please-help/
  3. is there anything to check for specifically?I mean how do i know if it's failed? i could give it a few "technical taps" and see if it comes to life. Should I hear it making noise if someone tries to switch it with me listening?
  4. hey guys, I have an 04 cayenne that has been running fine. Well we got some a load of ice here in Texas and I had to get out in it. I put the car in the the low 4wd mode witch it seemed to do without issue but I thought better of it and tried to put it back in "regular" drive mode. However it's stuck in low. when I turn the car off and then back on, i try to turn off 4wd it does nothing for a few seconds and then a "4wd system faulty" comes up on the screen. I've tried everything I know to get it back in normal mode but I'm out of ideas. So a couple of q's... Is there a way to manu
  5. ok so I got the drive shaft replaced and she's purring like a kitten. So i guess ill try to figure out where this gas leak is coming from. I've read this thread : http://www.renntech....ear-wheel-well/ and its exactly my issue. What i cant figure out is which part is actually leaking? btw... this cavity was full of gas. this is the drivers side access panel under the back seat PTEC's reply with part # "RFM is right on the money. The most common cause for this is a leaking drivers side fuel tank flange. Should be part # 955 620 841 00. Due to the design of the tank, both flan
  6. ok guys,,, all is well. drove slowly out to my buddies with the lift and about 4 blocks from my house all those PSM/ABS warnings cleared on their own. got the drive shaft replaced with my vertex shaft and all is right in the world. thanks for all the help and sugestions.
  7. I haven't driven the car really since we're not putting the drive shaft on till tomorrow afternoon. I will see how it goes and hopefully eveything will clear itself up (fingers crossed) thanks guys!
  8. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! I really need some direction. I replaced the battery and the car is starting beautifully. However, the PSM and ABS failure lights are staying on. Is there any way to reset these and see if they reappear? i'm miles and miles from a dealer.
  9. I forgot to mention... the Battery that's under the seat was replaced last year and the one in the boot tested good. However the car is doing the same kinds of things it did prior to the replacement last year. weird lights. not locking properly. keyless entry doesn't work, lights are dim and then click off, just general weirdness is the best way to describe it. ( last night the right rear turn signal stayed on and then faded out after I locked the car ) weird
  10. sorry, tried to be brief... ok so this is where I am. O4CS 97k Freshly naked then WHAMMO Drive shaft bearing fails. So while I've been deciding how to proceed it's been sitting under covered parking patiently waiting. My Vertex shaft will be here today and I hope to get it installed over the weekend, but here's where it get weird for me. So the other day I went to start the car just to let it warm up and relax since it's been sitting about a month. The car acted like it was dead, but after turning the ignition left/right then reinserting the key the light came on and the car started n
  11. a couple of Q's for all you smart guys... I have an 04CS sitting @ 95k miles. The regular maintenance has been done, coolant pipes, plugs, coils, belts, etc... and overall the car is solid, However, 2 issues have recently cropped up: 1. about 4 hours after the CS went naked. i started smelling a gasoline smell from the drivers side rear wheel well. upon inspection you can see where gasoline has seeped, albeit very slowly, from the hole in the gas tank cover and my gas mileage has dropped dramatically. I THINK its the connections or flange on that side of the gas tank and it looks like th
  12. I went with the Nitto 420s on my 04CS and couldn't be happier. Very quiet, great traction, wear well, and handling is spot on. they weren't as expensive as some other options. I think I paid 150 a piece at discount tire.
  13. Could someone direct me to a DIY for changing the pads front/rear on a 04CS? I really can't bring myself to pay someone $1000 bucks for that (which is what my local dealer wants). I know it can't be that hard... I would also like to know materials/parts needed (sensors?) and what pads you all recommend. (oem or aftermarket) thanks for the help! Also... I just spoke with an "independent" repair guy and he said that you're supposed to REPLACE the rotors at the same time as the pads ???? I have never seen that mentioned in any of the brake threads on here. sounds a little fishy to me.
  14. I have replaced the main (under the seat ) battery. the one in the back tested fine when I was having battery problems earlier. The thump does happens when braking.
  15. My Cayenne S has a couple of strange things going on I was hoping someone can help me out with. Mileage is right at 84 k 1. Occasionally when I pull to a stop or slow down almost completely stopped ( like rolling through a stop sign :rolleyes:, I hear a single "thump" that seems to come from underneath the front passanger seats. It's not all the time and is always a single thump... any ideas? something loose down there perhaps? what should I check? 2 My key FOB's have BOTH stopped working. but one "actual key" will start the car, my other key will unlock it but will not start the car
  16. It was tightened by hand but not excessively. I also have some eaze-outs that might work but the JB thing sounded pretty easy. i can try to get some pictures but it would be tomorrow evening before I can get back to the shop. Kinda been holding off doing anything until I can find a way to seal this thing up
  17. someone suggested that I could use JB WELD and an allen wrench I don't mind wasting... Just let the allen wrench "set" in the hole... and then break it loose. Obviously the wrench would be toast. ( I have one I'd be thrilled to lose if it would work) Based on what I've read it looks like it might work even with the plug being aluminum. still no luck on the Viton washer... been all over town.:cursing:
  18. I really like your confidence... I just wish I could locate some of these. I've looked everywhere but can't find them in the size I need. (I still have to get the old drain plug out before I can try it) any suggestions?
  19. so I've looked around but still not sure what I'm looking for ( I REALLY appreciate any help or direction) the ID on the bolt is 17mm and the OD is 22mm. (the actual aluminum crush washer is 18mm ID and 23mm OD) I've tried to find what you were talking about with those specs but no luck so far... more bad news... on the plug that's leaking, an 8mm hex will not grab enough to break it loose. any suggestions for removing it? No, I'm not suggesting to use an O-ring. It's a washer specifically made for this purpose. There's even a picture of it in the link I posted, which I guess you
  20. do you have a link to what you used? I'm not familiar with these so any info would be much appreciated.
  21. thanks for the info guys... I have a couple of new drain plugs on the way as the one that are on the pan are a rounded out too much to use again. I actually may have some trouble getting the leaking one out, and will probably have to use some kind of "ease out" to remove it.( anyone had this problem? any trick to getting it out without tearing anything up?) Do you know where I can find a washer(s) like this that would be the right size? the little town I'm in does not have them. It's the pan, not the block. The area of the drain plug isn't going to be susceptible to expansion/co
  22. I haven't quit decided what to do or what to try... If I were to REPLACE the drain pan, does anyone have an idea what it would take money wise? It looks like the part isn't too expensive but I imagine the labor is where most of the cost would be. Does the engine have to come out to get to it?
  23. would you leave still use the reg. crush washer AND the viton? if so which one would you put on first?
  24. that's kinda what I was thinking... kind of a flat washer that would "fill in the gaps" great idea thanks for the suggestion. I was up all night, kept having this dream where I just couldn't keep the oil from POURING out of the engine.... I'm talking gallons. weird
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