I have 2 keys for my 996.  I have replaced the batteries in both and, when I press the buttons, the red lights illuminate on both.  But only one key lock/unlocks the car door.  The other doesn't.  What could be wrong with the other key?

Thanks

12 minutes ago, DBJoe996 said:

It would help to know what the sound sounds like.  Is it a squeal, thump, roar?  Have you lifted the engine lid and made an inspection?  It could be that the compressor clutch is heating up and dragging, so when you shut down and restart, it re-positions itself temporarily.

It is like a roar (kind of...), pretty loud.  I lifted the lid, I could not see anything, mainly because the airbox covers the A/C compressor.  I plan on removing the airbox soon to see if anything has changed after the compressor was initially inspected.

When I re-started the engine, it was immediately after turning it off without time for anything to cool off. 

29 minutes ago, DBJoe996 said:

Why are you even driving/running the car with the AC compressor seized?  Even though the compressor clutch is disengaged, the clutch compressor bearings are still turning. You need to identify where the "noise"  is coming from.  A long handled screw driver or mechanics stethoscope placed against each turning component, pulley, will narrow down where the noise is coming from.  However, if the compressor is seized, that is more than likely the source.  You run the risk of having the compressor seize entirely and that will kill your serpentine belt.  Fix your AC compressor!

Thanks for your reply.  The compressor replacement is already scheduled for next week.  I need to drive the car a few miles around here and then I need to drive to the shop that will replace the compressor, which is a few miles away.   I am intrigued by the fact that turning the engine off/re-starting eliminates (at least temporarily) the noise.  I was wondering if other members have experienced the same thing.  Knowing what is going may help to make a determination on whether the car can be driven to the shop or it needs to be towed.

The A/C compressor has seized  and the compressor clutch appears to be disengaged, but sometimes I hear noise coming from the engine compartment and the engine does not run smoothly.  If I stop, turn the engine off and re-start the engine, everything goes back to normal.  This has occurred 3 times in about 100 miles.  Any ideas on what is happening?

Per my previous post in this thread, after adding refrigerant, the A/C worked normally.  We then looked for leaks using sniffers, but we could not find any.   After 3 months and a few hundred miles, however, the A/C stopped working again.  Also, on the following day the A/C fan stopped working.  If I press ‘+’ or ‘-‘, on the A/C console, I can see the fan speed indicator going up or down, but I cannot hear the noise of the fan.  It is dead.

I understand that the refrigerant leak may be larger than we had hoped and all the refrigerant may have leaked out, but why the sniffers were not able to detect a large leak? Is the A/C fan failure in any way related to the refrigerant leak?

Thanks

9 hours ago, jimalthoff said:

Bosch FGR-6-KQE (7413), Beru 14 FGR-6 KQU, NGK BKR6EKUB (7969) - Beru Z129

 

Thanks.  I have ordered 6 Beru Z129 spark plugs

What is the BERU part number for the spark plugs in my car?

Thanks

24 minutes ago, Loren said:

Yes, 996 555 557 10 G13 is Metropole Blue.

Thanks, Loren.

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

Year and model of the car?

2000 996 Carrera 2 Coupe 6 speed

I am looking for a confirmation of the part number of the 'plastic covering' that holds the interior lights (near the rear mirror).   The part number that I have found is G99655555710G13.  It looks like it is the right part, but I am not sure about the color    The interior of my car is Navy Blue.  Could somebody let me know if  the color of part G99655555710G13 is correct for the color of my interior?

Thanks

1 hour ago, DBJoe996 said:

#7 and #8 here

M96.01/02/03 Intake Distributor M96.04

WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM

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Many thanks, DBJoe996!

Could somebody advise the part numbers for the engine compartment temperature sensor and the grommet that goes with it?

I am referring to the sensor that is located on the top, right side of the engine.  This sensor turns on the fan located on the engine compartment lid.

Thanks

judgejon, creekman,

Thanks to both for your recommendations!

What lubricant should be used for the door lock and the ignition lock cylinder?

Thanks

10 hours ago, sprout99 said:

I bought a none genuine part as I needed it sorting In a hurry  so the adjustment maybe different. The oem equivalent part has cable tensioning screws in bottom corners. 

 

I think porsche version uses some retaining clips that allow the cable to be adjusted either side of the drive gear. 

 

If it works leave it. 

 

My cable snapped just after I'd arrived at an airport at the start of a business trip. 

Thanks for the additional information provided!

8 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

This is NOT a part to go cheap on.  Only get a real OE Porsche window regulator.  I have heard and read many stories about cheap window regulators breaking after less than a year, cables snapping, grinding and so on.  No, you cannot finagle a way to tension the cables.  It's a Porsche, pony up the cost of the OE Porsche window regulator and be done with this job.  I do believe there is a company in Texas that you can send  it to for a rebuild with much higher quality parts.  I'll see if I can find that info.  But you will have to wait out the shipping and rebuilding time.

Actually I had already purchased an OEM Porsche window regulator.  I was not sure if having it installed or not, because the existing window regulator had been working reasonably well recently.  But the glass was not dropping, when opening the door, and considering that the regulator lasted 20 years, I decided to have it replaced.  The job was done by an independent Porsche mechanic today and everything is fine.  Also the door lock was repaired.  It was my intention to do the lock myself, but it proved to be too much of a job for me. Thanks for all the advice provided.

1 hour ago, DBJoe996 said:

There is a threaded "key" that goes from the door lock to the door latch mechanism.  I've detailed some of the work here 

DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums

RENNLIST.COM

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996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...

 

Thanks for the link to the detailed door latch replacement procedure.  I am going through the procedure right now.

1 hour ago, sprout99 said:

I've changed a window regulator recently..... 

 

Horrible job! Fiddly getting it set up right. 

 

The cable tension does indeed need to be right for the window to drop. 

Thanks for your confirmation. I was wondering if there is a way of re-tensioning the cable without replacing the all thing.  Also, I am still a little surprised  about the big reduction in the scratching noise when operating the window.  I believe that knowing what is causing the scratching noise can help deciding whether replacing the window regulator (assuming that the cable can be re-tensioned).

The door key turns freely without locking/unlocking.  I am trying to get the door latch mechanism out, but I could not separate the handle/handle case assembly from the latch mechanism.

I cannot try this now, because I am working on the door lock.  I'll try as soon as I can. Many thanks for your suggestion!

The driver side window regulator in my car started making a loud scratchy noise about 2 or 3 years ago.  I tried to minimize its use, fearing that it was going to fail, but eventually it got better and right now the scratching noise, while still there,  is almost imperceptible.   The window, however, does not lower automatically ¼” or ½” , whatever it is supposed to do, when I open the door.  I am not sure if this is an issue related to the window regulator or to a failed microswitch.

I have bought a Porsche OEM window regulator, but I wouldn’t go to the trouble of getting it installed, unless I am sure that the window regulator currently in the car is bad.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Thanks

Thanks to All.

Is there a specific torque to put the bolts back?.  Is Loctite require?

Note:  I call ‘back of the door’ the part of the door that is facing backwards, not the back portion of the door panel

On the back of the door there are 2 black ‘bolts’ that secure the lock to the door.  They seem to be designed for a Torx bit, but none of my Torx bits seem to fit properly.  What is the correct tool for removing those bolts and where can it be purchased?

Thanks

On ‎5‎/‎20‎/‎2020 at 8:37 PM, wyovino said:

Get a cheap Bluetooth or WiFi ODB-II reader and an app on your phone like DashCommand or Torque. They can display the engine compartment temps and much more in real-time. I have the iCar II from Vgate. I think it was about $30, which is more than some. What I like about it is that it turns on and off automatically so you can leave it plugged in without worrying about draining your battery. I have the WiFi version which works with iPhone. The bluetooth version works with Android. I'm not sure if those restrictions still apply. I have the DashCommand app but a lot of people like Torque.

Thanks for the information.  These tools and applications could be useful also for my other car.

Does a more complete list of the "AC diagnostics" exist? In particular, I am interested in the engine compartment temperature reading, but other parameters could also be useful.

Thanks