Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Thanks to All. My door lock has also failed. So the information from toddmac12 is also appreciated!
I need to replace the driver side window regulator. I have seen that many aftermarket window regulators are available at prices that vary significantly. I was also told that re-built original units can be purchased, but I could not find any online. I would consider both options. Any recommendations? Thanks
Thanks. I will remove the door panel and have a look at that pin shaft.
I cannot lock the door any more. The key rotates freely with no resistance. Any suggestions on how to fix the lock? Thanks
Creekman, thanks for the update. I have not yet had the A/C doors replaced. I have been travelling on business and I have not used the car much. I have gone so far as re-covering the frames of my spare doors with new foam.
The battery of my car has been disconnected for about 2 weeks. Are there any issues to be expected when I reconnect the battery and start the car again? Also, on one of the electrodes I cannot get the specified torque. The 2 lugs on the wire don't stay parallel. Anything that I can do besides replacing the wire? Thanks
Thanks, Ahsai. For some reason I had missed Fig.5. I have figured it out now.
Thanks, Ahsai. But I am not familiar with this alternator and what is on the back side of it. Where is the connection point and what are its shape and approximate dimensions so that I can finalize the geometry of the hook? Thanks
I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013. Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Thanks
Thanks, Ahsai. I guess the back-up battery could still be used to travel a little further, if necessary, if its use does not cause any issues.
Thanks for your reply. The vendor I was referring to sells jumper cables that include a fuse that are used to charge the car battery for 10 minutes. According to the vendor the car can then be started using the car battery. The vendor does not recommend to start the car directly from the back-up battery. In any case, my question was more related to being able to drive back home, if the alternator fails and the car battery is low, using a back-up battery connected through the cigarette lighter (with minimal electrical load, just the lights, if it is night). Does that seem possible? What would be a fuse size that would ensure sufficient protection? I assume that the car has its own fuse to protect the cigarette lighter cable. Is that correct? Thanks
I am considering keeping a jump starter portable external battery in the car. I am wondering if this battery could be used, when connected to the car electrical system through the cigarette lighter socket, to power the car electrical system to allow me to drive back home in case the alternator fails and the car battery is low. Vendors claim that the car could even be started using the external battery connected through the cigarette lighter socket. Is there any risk of damaging any car electrical system components doing this? Thanks
Joe, Thanks for tip. I will give it a try before I go for the foam replacement.
Mitch, I will post the information on the foam, if I go for the replacement. I would like to give a try to the idea proposed by DBJoe996 even if it did not work for you. As far as the cost of the repair, I believe that if the normal procedure, which involves removing the dashboard, is used, the cost will be well above $1,000. If the airbox is accessed from the trunk only, I don't have any idea about what the cost could be. But I personally doubt that a dealer would go that way.
The airbox door metal frames have large holes on them. Without the foam the air goes through the doors doesn't matter if they are closed or open. When the foam starts deteriorating, initially you just get pieces of foam through the vents. Eventually when most of the foam is gone, the A/C heater system stops working properly. Access to these doors is difficult. A lot of parts need to come out to get to the doors. Because of this it is important to select a reliable repair method for the doors, whether you use foam or not.