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Philip54

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About Philip54

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    Male

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  • From
    Houston
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Porsche 996
  • Future cars
    None
  • Former cars
    None

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  1. Thanks for the additional information, JFP. We'll see what happens after I disconnect the coolant sensor cable.
  2. Thanks for all the good information. My coolant tank, the tank sensor and all the coolant were replaced earlier this year. Considering all the difficulties in disconnecting the tank sensor, I will leave the tank sensor alone and I will disconnect the coolant sensor instead, for which access is easier. I am trying to figure out what is going on with my coolant gauge light. At this time that light blinks in slow mode all the time the engine is on, except if in the previous trip the coolant temperature did not exceed 88°C, because it was a short trip. In that situation the light will not start blinking, when the engine is started, and will start blinking again only when and if the coolant temperature exceeds 88°C. Previously the pattern was different and less regular, but that is the way it is these days. Note: I measured the 88°C temperature with Durametric. The coolant gauge does not provide a digital reading, but it seems to be pretty much in agreement with Durametric.
  3. Thanks for letting me know, JFP. In order to disconnect at the tank, is it necessary to unbolt the tank and lift the tank above its normal position? Or it can be done without moving the tank? Also, how is the connector released? I am asking because probably I will not be able to see the connector well, while I am trying to release it. Thanks
  4. I would like to run my car with the coolant reservoir sensor cable disconnected for a quick test, since the coolant light on the coolant temperature gauge continues to behave erratically. Access to the bottom the reservoir, where the cable connects to the sensor, does not seem very good. Would it be easier to disconnect the cable at the other end? How could this be accomplished? Thanks
  5. Thanks, JFP. I had some copper anti-seize in my garage and this is what I used.
  6. What would be a good alternative to the Optimoly TA specified in the owner manual? Thanks
  7. Thanks, Loren. I assume that, if I remove the caliper for getting access to the shims, I will not need to replace the caliper bolts. They are supposed to be replaced every time the calipers are removed, but, I think, that should apply only if you have driven the car at least a few thousand miles. The bolts are not expensive, I just don't have a spare set with me.
  8. The new OEM pad shims came with adhesive paper on the side of the shims that stays in contact with the pad backplate. I installed the shims with the paper on, because I did not read the tutorial of Loren carefully enough. But on the right wheel, while slipping one of the pad in, the paper came off anyway because the clearance for the pad was very small. As a result, on the right wheel now I have one pad shim with paper and one pad shim without paper. Can this be considered acceptable even if it is not to spec.? Thanks
  9. My 996 is finally in the shop for replacing the AC evaporator and the engine coolant. Dyes will be added both the coolant and the AC refrigerant. The instructions for the Uview coolant dye that I have purchased call for adding one FL ounce of dye to a ‘standard automotive radiator system’. It seems to me that the radiator system of the 996 is anything but standard, because it has a capacity of about 3 times the capacity of a typical 2 liter car. I plan on adding three FL ounces of dye instead of one. Does this seem right? Unfortunately Uview does not provide a dye/coolant ratio. Thanks
  10. Next week an independent shop will replace the leaking AC evaporator of my 996. This will be an opportunity for replacing the engine coolant. Since the car is more than 20 years old, leaks in AC system and in the engine cooling system may occur any time and I am considering having dyes placed in both systems to facilitate leak detection. I don’t know, though, if Porsche approves the use of dyes and, if it does, which dyes are approved. For my other vehicles I have purchased the AutoPRO dyes made by Energizer Auto (2 separate products, one for the AC system and one for the engine cooling system), but I am prepared to buy other products, if necessary. Any help on this will be appreciated. Thanks
  11. I recently changed the engine oil and I have now an oil leak from the oil filter cover cap that is quite noticeable with the engine running. Everything looked normal during the re-installation of the oil filter cover cap after changing the oil and initially there was no leak. I torqued the cover cap to 19 ft lbs as I normally do and when I re-checked the torque after noticing the leak this morning, the cap moved just a little bit. What could be the reason of the leak? I intend to install a new ring on the oil filter cover cap. I assume that it is not necessary to drain the oil completely to do this. How much oil should I plan to put in the engine? Now the oil level is at 80% of the distance between the min. level dot and max. level dot on the dipstick. Thanks
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