Philip54

1 hour ago, DBJoe996 said:

Are you sure about the coolant level?  Did you open the cap and check?  I agree with the suggestion to replace the coolant expansion tank level sensor.  It is outside the coolant tank so you won't lose any coolant.  215F is pretty darn high.  How are you getting the car that hot?  Are your radiator fans working?  Has the thermostat ever been replaced?  What mix is your coolant and is it pink (the new type coolant)?

I confirmed that the level of coolant was correct by removing the cap and checking.  I occasionally get to 215F in slow traffic, because of the South Texas heat in the summer.  The thermostat has never been replaced, the water pump has (the car has about 125,000 miles).  Next week we will be looking for a freon leak in the A/C system and that will be an opportunity to check radiators and radiators fans.  I am told that I have the correct coolant.

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

If memory serves, the level sensor is a simple on/off switch, you should be able to test it using a multi meter and moving the sensor to see if goes on and off.

Thanks.   We'll give it a try.

Thanks for your reply.

Is there any way to test the level sensor or the only option is to replace it and see if the problem goes away? 

The red light on the coolant temperature gauge of my car occasionally (but in recent times more frequently) flashes slowly (0.5 Hz).

In a post dated 7/30/2018 Loren listed four conditions for the light to come on.  The two conditions for which the light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) are the following:

• Engine coolant too low

• Engine compartment temperature too high

None of these conditions applies to my car.

The light comes on after about 20 minutes of driving and it seems to be triggered (but not always) by running the engine above 4,500-5,000 RPM (with coolant temperature at normal values and, I assume, engine compartment temperature also at normal values.  This is not driving in heavy traffic, this is normal out of town driving ).

Using  the Porsche tester it was possible to establish that the engine compartment fan works.  However,  it does not come on when I drive the car in traffic and the coolant temperature gets to 215F.  This, I would assume, should cause the engine compartment temperature to become elevated and the fan to run.

The engine compartment sensor, located on the passenger side intake manifold, is installed properly  and seems to read the temperature of the engine compartment correctly.

Any thoughts on what is going on?

Thanks

On ‎5‎/‎5‎/‎2020 at 7:30 PM, judgejon said:

Needs refrigerant.  You might have a leak in system.  Pressure check?

The refrigerant was low.  We put more refrigerant in the system and now the A/C is working again.  Next week we'll try to find the leak.

Thanks

When I turn on the air conditioning, everything seems normal, the compressor appears to be working and the fan goes on, but only warm air comes out of the vents.

Where should I start to figure out what is wrong? I have Durametric , if that can help.

Thanks

Thanks, Loren.

4 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

I cannot see the photos you attached.

 

As mentioned, Porsche only use two color coolants: Green up to around 2003-2004, and pink afterwards.  They have never used a yellow coolant to my knowledge.  And, as I mentioned, the only "Porsche" parts retailer that used part numbers ending in "M100" is Pelican; it is not a Porsche part designation.

 

If the car was in my shop, I would recommend dumping the entire system, flushing it least once with distilled water, and then refilling it with the correct coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water.  We have seen too many crapped up cooling systems from people using antifreeze that "they read on the internet would work fine with the factory coolant", usually to save a few bucks.  Then when we hand them the bill for cleaning the system, the "savings" didn't look so attractive.

I posted  again one of the 2 photos attached to my previous post, but unfortunately it is also not readable.  In any case none of the photos covers the yellow coolant that makes the vast majority of the coolant that is in the car now.  After so many years I cannot tell for sure who provided that yellow coolant, but I am completely sure that the coolant bottles had Porsche labels on them, perhaps counterfeit Porsche labels, but Porsche labels.  Per your advice  I will get the coolant replaced.  Thanks.     

000-043-301-05-M100.pdf

I upload the files attached to my previous post one at the time hoping that they will be downloadable.

Thanks.  I got the water pump replaced.  That was many years (but not miles!) ago, so the pump should still be ok.  It is good to know that all the Porsche coolants are compatible with each other. 

DBJoe996, JFP in PA,

Thanks for your replies.

The attached photos show the labels on the coolant bottles with the part numbers that I mentioned in my original message. 

I need to make a correction to what I stated in my original message.  Yes, I bought coolant 000-043-301-05-M100 from Pelican, but that was only 1 gallon that I used for topping off the reservoir when needed.  I did not buy the coolant that was used for completely replacing the coolant in my car many years ago from Pelican.  I bought that likely from Sunset.  Unfortunately Sunset told me this morning that their records don’t go back that far, so I don't have a part number, but definitely it was not Pelican, because that purchase is not on Pelican’s records.  That coolant was yellow in color.

Now most of the coolant in my car is yellow with an unknown Porsche part number and approximately 1 quart of a 50% mixture of water and correct Porsche red coolant.

I wonder if the car can be driven or I should replace the coolant immediately.

Thanks

000-043-301-05-M100.pdf 000-043-305-15.pdf

When we replaced the coolant in my car in 2013, we used coolant Porsche part number  ‘000-043 -301-05-M100’(pre-mixed).  The color, based on a little quantity left in one of the 2013 bottles, was red. The coolant in the car seems yellow now.

I have just topped off the coolant today, using Porsche coolant part number  ‘000-043 -305 15’, red color (I mixed it with water, 50%).

Could somebody please confirm that the 2 coolants are compatible?

Thanks

It was recently brought to my attention that the heads of the wheel lugs in my car are 17 mm instead of 19 mm (factory lugs).  Is there any problem with that?  Is it possible that also the length of the lugs is not standard?

I am going to get rid of the lock keys. Therefore I will need to buy 4 new lugs, if I keep the other 17 mm lugs.  Any chances that lugs with same diameter and length, but made by different manufacturers, may have different weights , which would affect the wheel balance?

Thanks

Thanks to All.  My door lock has also failed.  So the information from toddmac12 is also appreciated!

I need to replace the driver side window regulator.  I have seen that many aftermarket window regulators are available at prices that vary significantly.  I was also told that re-built original units can be purchased, but I could not find any online.    I would consider both options.

Any recommendations?

Thanks

On ‎2‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 7:14 AM, DBJoe996 said:

There is a pin shaft on the back side of the key cylinder that can break or fall off.  You will have to remove the door card and access the back of the door handle to check it.  Here is a diagram of the door handle and key cylinder.  You can see the shaft on the back of the key cylinder.

Door Handle

WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM

---

 

 

Thanks. I will remove the door panel and have a look at that pin shaft.

I cannot lock the door any more. The key rotates freely with no resistance.

Any suggestions on how to fix the lock?

Thanks

8 hours ago, creekman said:

I have a '03' C4S and the posted Tech Tip didn't work for me.  I think there is a difference here between the Boxster style

airbox and my 996 C4S.  In my case, the dash will have to come out to split the airbox to remove the door in question.

My humble advice is to start the 'Tech Tip' from inside the car to remove the door.  I got everything done on top, all looked good

until I tried to follow through with the directions to remove the bottom pivot.  It ain't coming apart...

 

Our local Porsche dealer wanted $1,100 to do the job...

Creekman, thanks for the update.  I have not yet had the A/C doors replaced.  I have been travelling on business and I have not used the car much.  I have gone so far as re-covering the frames of my spare doors with new foam.

The battery of my car has been disconnected for about 2 weeks.  Are there any issues to be expected when I reconnect the battery and start the car again?

Also, on one of the electrodes  I cannot get the specified torque. The 2 lugs on the wire don't stay parallel.  Anything that I can do besides replacing the wire?

Thanks

Thanks, Ahsai.  For some reason I had missed Fig.5.  I have figured it out now.

Thanks, Ahsai.  But I am not familiar with this alternator and what is on the back side of it.  Where is the connection point and what are its shape and approximate dimensions so that I can finalize the geometry of the hook?

Thanks

I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013.

Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post.  I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable.  The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is.  I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. 

Any suggestions on how I should proceed?

Thanks

Thanks, Ahsai.  I guess the back-up battery could still be used to travel a little further, if necessary, if its use does not cause any issues. 

Thanks for your reply.  The vendor I was referring to sells jumper cables that include a fuse that are used to charge the car battery for 10 minutes.  According to the vendor the car can then be started using the car battery.  The vendor does not recommend to start the car directly from the back-up battery.  In any case, my question was more related to being able to drive back home, if the alternator fails and the car battery is low, using a back-up battery connected through the cigarette lighter (with minimal electrical load, just the lights, if it is night).  Does that seem possible?  What would be a fuse size that would ensure sufficient protection?  I assume that the car has its own fuse to protect the cigarette lighter cable.  Is that correct?

Thanks

I am considering keeping a jump starter portable external battery  in the car.  I am wondering if this battery could be used, when connected to the car electrical system through the cigarette lighter socket, to power the car electrical system to allow me to drive back home in case the alternator fails and the car battery is low.  Vendors claim that the car could even be started using the external battery connected through the cigarette lighter socket.

Is there any risk of damaging any car electrical system components doing this?

Thanks