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Philip54

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Posts posted by Philip54

  1. 10 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

    My experience with this is the foam deteriorated and came out the vents.  After awhile it stopped doing it.  Put the HVAC fan on high and I took a shop vac to the vents and tweezers to pull out the bits.  Several times of this and it all stopped.  I have never had a problem with AC cooling or heating after all this, and it has been years now.  I do appreciate someone undertaking a repair of the foam, but I do not see the point as it will also deteriorate with time.  Just one of those things.

     

    Joe, 

    Thanks for tip.  I will give it a try before I go for the foam replacement.

  2. 9 hours ago, creekman said:

    Philip,

    Thanks for the reply, when you decide on which foam you're going to use would you post your choice and the vendor who can supply it?  Is there a definite link that shows how to get to the A/C doors?  I bet the dealer would get $600-$1,000 to do that work?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Mitch

     

    Mitch,

     

    I will post the information on the foam, if I go for the replacement.  I would like to give a try to the idea proposed by DBJoe996 even if it did not work for you.

    As far as the cost of the repair, I believe that if the normal procedure, which involves removing the dashboard, is used, the cost will be well above $1,000.  If the airbox is accessed from the trunk only, I don't have any idea about what the cost could be.  But I personally doubt that a dealer would go that way.

  3. 7 hours ago, creekman said:

    Since you brought it up I know earlier posts have blown off the idea of replacing the foam.  I've been picking it out of my vents for several months now.  However, the cold air doesn't immediately get cold,  some times it takes 10 minutes before it really starts blowing cold.  Could this be the lack of foam on the doors or something else?  What does the foam accomplish?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Mitch

     

    The airbox door metal frames have large holes on them.  Without the foam the air goes through the doors doesn't matter if they are closed or open.  When the foam starts deteriorating, initially you just get pieces of foam through the vents.  Eventually when most of the foam is gone, the A/C heater system stops working properly.

    Access to these doors is difficult.  A lot of parts need to come out to get to the doors.  Because of this it is important to select a reliable repair method for the doors, whether you use foam or not.

  4. I need to replace the foam of the flap doors of the airbox of my car.  The existing foam has deteriorated and is coming out of the dash vents. A common problem on 996s that has been discussed on this site in other occasions.

    After getting the doors out and removing what is left of the existing foam from the door metal frames, I would like to use 1/8” thick close cell foam and mylar adhesive tape for the replacement.

    I am considering foam with the following specifications:

    Foam A

    Weather-Resistant Neoprene/EPDM/SBR Foam

    Foam, but not adhesive, meets ASTM D1056 2A2, UL 94HF1, and UL 94HBF. Material has a fine cell textured finish and does not have a skin. Adhesive is rubber based and has a temperature range of –10° to 150° F

    Weather and abrasion-resistant foam rubber

     

    Foam B

    Weather-Resistant Ultra-Conformable Vinyl Foam, Sheet, Ultra-Smooth Texture

    Material                                       Vinyl Foam

    Cell Type                                     Closed

    Texture                                        Ultra Smooth

    Thickness                                    1/8"

    Pressure to Compress 25%        5 psi

    Backing Type                              Plain

    Hardness                                     Extra Soft

    Temperature Range                    -30° to 160° F

    Density                                        9 lbs./cu. ft.

    RoHS                                          Compliant

     

    I would appreciate any comments on my proposed method and suggestions on whether to use foam A or foam B  (or other types of foam).

     

    Many thanks

  5. The way to verify it is just unplug the SAI pump when you hear the noise and see if it goes away. Or use a mechanic's stethoscope to touch the SAI pump housing when you hear the noise.

     

    I checked with a stethoscope, it is the SAI pump.

     

    I wonder how longer this pump will last and if it is important to change the pump before it fails to prevent additional damage to the engine.  I have seen replacement pumps (996-605-104-00) advertised on E-bay at various prices.  Are these aftermarket pumps? Does a more recent, more reliable version of the pump exist?  Any help on this will be appreciated. 

     

    Many thanks to all that provided troubleshooting input.

  6. When I start the engine in the morning, I hear a noise from the engine compartment for a few seconds (see attached recording).  The noise seems to come from the driver side.  As the engine warms up, the noise goes away and does not usually return during subsequent starts during the same day.

     

    The metallic noise can be heard in the background in the recording.  In the recording it is not as bad as it actually is.

     

    Any suggestions on what it could be?

     

    Thanks

     

    996_2000.wav

  7. +1 on the MAF's lifespan not being mileage based. Mine started exhibiting problems after about 25k miles, but that was also 15 years. If you are unsure the age of your MAF and O2 sensors, replacing them is fairly straight forward and tends to be cheaper than paying a shop to try to diagnose the problem. Worst case, you have eliminated them as potential problems and now have a spare set of sensors.

    Right now my engine light is off and Durametric is showing normal values for the MAF.  So I'm taking a wait-and-see attitude.  But thank you for your advise.

  8. Usually it will make itself known if it's faulty so if you don't have CEL or other symptoms, I wouldn't worry about it.

    I do have a P1126 error.  I understand that the most likely reason for the error is intake air system leaking, but before I get into a smoke test (that I can't do by myself), I would replace the MAF, if it has reached the mile replacement interval.  That was the reason for my question.  I have Durametric, if this can be used for checking the MAF and/or troubleshooting the P1126 error.

     

    Thanks

  9. What is the mile interval replacement for the MAF sensor? My car has almost 110,000 miles and the MAF was cleaned at least one time using a product not specifically recommended for MAF sensors.  Should I consider it shot?

     

    Also, is the correct Bosch part number 0280218009?  My car is a 2000 Carrera 2 coupe 6 speed.

     

    Thanks

  10. The day after I drive my car in heavy traffic with the engine coolant a bit on the high side, I get a P1126 error code.  I erase it and it does not come back until I drive in heavy traffic again.

     

    The possible causes of this error have been listed in this Forum many times:

     

    – Incorrect signal from MAF (#) sensor

    – Intake air system leaking

    – Fuel pressure too low

    – Volume supply of fuel pump too low

    – Fuel injectors fouled

     

    Based on the circumstances that lead to the P1126 error in my car, would it be possible to identify which of the above causes are the most likely?

     

    MAF and throttle body were cleaned 8,000 miles ago.

     

    Thanks

     

  11. I find it interesting that someone wants to add a TPMS system to a car without one, as most inquiries we get at the shop about TPMS systems are about how to turn one off on cars that came with them.  Just an observation...........

    The main reason I would be interested in adding a TPMS to my car is early detection of slow leak flats, before the tire gets damaged. Wouldn't a TMPS serve that purpose?

    Thanks

  12. Easiest is to go from below with a crowfoot and a long wobble 3/8" drive extension (availabe at harbourfreight). Or you can use a u-joint, which will not have as much leverage as a wobble extension though. I don't know the torque spec but there's a crush washer you need to compress. I would not go crazy tightening it though as long as you feel the washer is compressed.

     

    Many thanks, Ahsai.

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