Philip54

I would like to replace the oil pressure sender.  Could somebody advise the required torque and confirm that the replacement can be done from the top using a crow foot wrench?

Thanks

I just did this a few weeks ago. I used the widest window weatherstripping I could find at Lowes. It's a one side adhesive foam. I wrapped it all around the the door, wrapping around the edges. I then covered the whole thing in duct tape. Kind of a redneck fix but it works great. I had zero foam left on the door/flap. A/C is nice and cold now.

Here is the DIY link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/121-fixed-my-lack-of-heat-problem-here-is-the-procedure/

Thanks for the link and the suggestions.

 

 

Post #1 here talks about the foam VW use with p/n. Looks promising. http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?3563354-Foam-Replacement-Kit-for-Heater-Box-Flaps

Thanks, Ahsai

Btw, that part seems to be only available here http://www.busdepot.com/155298121

 

Thanks, Ahsai

Post #1 here talks about the foam VW use with p/n. Looks promising. http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?3563354-Foam-Replacement-Kit-for-Heater-Box-Flaps

Many thanks, Ahsai!

I'm having this EXACT same problem.

 

Where do I find the doors/assembly??

Try a used parts shop

The foam covering the doors/flaps of the air housing assembly (where the A/C evaporator is) is failing and pieces of foam are coming out of the A/C vents.   I intend to have the doors replaced.  I have spare door frames (uncovered) and I would like to cover them with suitable material in preparation for the replacement (Porsche does not sell the doors separately from the air housing assembly).  Could somebody make a recommendation on the material to use?  I am concerned about both durability and the ability of the doors to seal properly when closed. 

Thanks in advance

Loren, Mijostyn,

Thanks to both!

It looks like I will need to replace my fuel door actuator. Since I will be working in that area, I would like to do something about the fact that I cannot fill my tank completely. I usually get between 3/4 and 7/8, assuming that the fuel gauge reads right.

I have read a few threads on this forum about not being able to fill the tank at all, due the failure of the tank vent valve. My case is different; I get a partial fill, but I wonder whether a partially failed vent valve could still be the cause for not being able to fill the tank completely or the problem is due to something else.

Thanks

Since I bought my car, the fuel door lock has never worked. Recently the lock has started making noise every time I lock the car. I don't know for sure where noise comes from, but I have noticed that the locking pin moves to the side and very little forward and does not catch the ring in door.

I may decide to replace the system one day, but for the moment I would just prefer to disable the system, so that I don't get the noise any more.

Any suggestions about how it can be done?

Thanks

Have you cleaned the throttle body well - both in front and behind the butterfly?

After some additional cleaning of the throttle body behind the butterfly, in the areas that are difficult to reach, the idle is now fairly stable.

Thanks, Loren.

This one looks good, except I would use throttle body cleaner

http://911car.blogspot.com/2009/07/porsche-carrera-throttle-body-cleaning.html

Thanks

Have you cleaned the throttle body well - both in front and behind the butterfly?

I have cleaned the throttle body well in front of the butterfly. In the back of the butterfly I did what I could. I believe that to clean it real well behind the butterfly it necessary to remove the throttle body from the engine. Is there a procedure on this forum on how to do it?

Thanks

Thank you Philip for the reply & update!

Is idle purge valve also referred to as idle control valve for 00 C2s?

Martin

My understanding is that the 00 C2s, equipped with electronic throttle, do not have idle control valves.

The idle purge valve is another valve. It is located above alternator. Do a search for part 996 110 129 53 on the Pelican Parts website to see a picture of this valve.

I have replaced the idle purge valve. The engine light is off (error was P0410) and the tapping noise is gone. The idle is still irregular, perhaps a tad better.

Martin,

The symptoms are: tapping noise coming from the valve and idle RPM oscillating (+/-) 50-75 rpm. Both occur when the engine is warm. Two or three times it looked like the engine was going to quit, but eventually it didn't. Right now I also have the engine light on (Error P410). I have not yet replaced the idle purge valve, so I don't know if the problem is cause by this valve. I can post a message after Ido it.

Thanks to all!

I purchased a new idle purge valve, the one located just above the alternator, p/n 996 110 129 53, and I plan on installing it this coming week-end.

Could somebody advise how to release the electrical connector? Usually there is a little tab to press to unlock the connector, but I could not see any tab.

Thanks

You may need a new valve. A slight ticking noise is normal though. I remember seeing others replaced that valve because the clicking is too loud.

I can live with the noise, but by my concern is the not properly working idle purge valve could be the reason for the irregular idle.

Thanks

Any chance you can get a video of what you are describing and post it for us to review?

I tried to attach a video file, recorded using my Nikon camera, to my reply to you, but I got a message stating: Error You aren't permitted to upload this kind of file. The size of the file is 4.18 megabytes. Any idea about what the problem could be?

Thanks

Yes, I will record the tapping noise, as soon as I hear it again.

There is a tapping noise in my car that appears to come from the idle purge valve, just above the alternator. The noise is not on all the time. It happens more frequently when the engine is warm. My mechanic removed the valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it. But the tapping noise did not go away.

I have also an irregular idle that may be related to the problem that is causing the tapping noise. Also the irregular idle happens prevalently when the engine is warm. I cleaned MAF and throttle body without achieving any improvements. I am aware of the possibility of vacuum leaks and low fuel pressure causing the irregular idle, but I would like to look into that after taking care of the tapping noise.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks, Loren. I was concerned that forcing the throttle plate to open could cause damage to the actuator, but that is not obviously the case.

My 2000 Carrera 2 has the electronic throttle. In order to get access to the throttle body for cleaning, I tried to open the throttle plate by turning the ignition key on and wedging something between the throttle pedal and the seat, as I was working by myself. But the throttle plate opened just a little bit and, in any case, CRC, that makes the throttle body cleaner that I have purchased, recommends not to spray on the system, when the system is energized. Could somebody kindly advise the proper procedure to open the throttle plate?

Thanks

Thanks, Loren. How can I practically look into the suspect areas that you listed? I have the Durametric tool. For each area, are there parameters that I can read with Durametric and compare with the normal values? Also one possible cause for the P1126 error should be that the oxygen sensor itself is faulty. Is this correct?

Thanks

The engine light is on: code P1126. From other threads I understand that the first step is to clean the MAF.

Does anybody have a procedure for removing the MAF from the engine and cleaning it?

Thanks