Philip54

It is just the external cover. The belt is bolted to the car the near the door window and a plastic cover is installed on top of the belt attachment system. On the driver side the plastic cover is missing. I have bought a replacement cover, but I cannot install it, it doesn't appear to fit. I want to remove the plastic cover on the passenger side to compare it with the part that I bought and see if I have have bought the correct part. But I don't know how this plastic cover is supposed to come off.

Thanks

Could somebody advise how to remove the plastic cover on the seat belt attachment point near the door window?

Thanks

When I bought my 996, the plastic cover for the seat belt top attachment point (near the window) was missing on the driver side. I purchased a replacement plastic cover. The part number on it seems correct for my car year (997.803.521.00; according to the company that sold the part, in this particular case the part is good for the 996 and the 997, this explains the 997 in the number). However, I was not able to install the cover. It does't just seem to fit. Is it possible that some remains of the old cover are still in? Or, what could be the problem?

Thanks

With an outside temperature of 60 degrees F and in light rain, today it took 6 miles and 7 minutes of freeway driving to get to a coolant temperature of 180 degrres F.

Totally normal.

Thanks

It takes my car about 10 minutes of driving to get up to 180 during the summer. In the winter, it can take more than 15 minutes. I have the low temperature thermostat, so I don't know if that makes a difference.

Thanks for your comment. Could you please advise what is a low temperature thermostat?

Sounds normal. How long are you talking here?

To test the thermostat, I like to remove it and boil it in a pot of water.

Of course, that means you'll need to refill the cooling system, which is an entirely different story... :)

With an outside temperature of 60 degrees F and in light rain, today it took 6 miles and 7 minutes of freeway driving to get to a coolant temperature of 180 degrres F.

Thanks

Did you buy the car used?

If so, the previous owner may have removed the thermostat.

The service records of the previous owner do not show a removal of the thermostat

When I start driving my 996, the temperature of the water takes much longer than other cars (like my Civic) to get 180F.

Is this normal for all the water cooled 911s or something is wrong with my thermostat? If that is the case, is there any way to confirm that the thermostat is not working properly?

Thanks

When the PSS10 kit was installed, the car was lowered by 1 inch at the front and by 3/4 inches at the back. The car was corner balanced and the wheels aligned. The front shock absorbers are set on position '2' and rear shock absorbers are set on position '4'. I have Sumitomo HTR Z II tires.

When I go over a spread breaker diagonally, I can hear a noise coming from each wheel as each wheel goes over the breaker. When I drive at speed on a bumpy road, I can occasionally hear the same noise from a wheel (not always the same). We inspected the suspensions and everything seems normal.

Has anybody experienced the same problem? What is the cause of it?

Many thanks

I plan on doing that, but I prefer to wait until I don't use the car for the a couple of days. That is when the difference in start-up noise is more evident

Another thing that can sometimes be useful to diagnose a problem remotely is to record a brief clip of the audio and/or video using a smartphone / camera / etc. and upload to this website or youtube.

Thanks

[

I have a MY99 996 that makes the lifter noise when I haven't driven the car in a few days - especially during colder weather. Here's a link to a thread on various start up noises that helped me.

http://www.renntech....h__1#entry54707

Thanks for your reply.

The oil is Mobil 1 0W40 and I keep the level close to the maximum. When I changed the oil (just a few weeks ago), I inspected the filter and I could not see any metal particles in it.

I did not have this noise before. It has been gradually increasing recently. It is not a ticking or knocking noise. I would say that is more like chain noise. I will be more specific tomorow. Now the engine is warm and does not make that noise, when it starts.

There is a mechanical noise coming from the engine on cold start-ups. The noise goes away almost immediately. I read that it could be from the chain tensioners. If that is the case, what is causing the noise and how the noise could be eliminated?

Thanks

We'have a look.

Thanks

Perhaps the mechanisms outside the gearbox, where the cables are connected, is bend by a obstacle or so. The mechanisms can touch each other or the gearbox case under some conditions.

My 996 has a standard transmission; I cannot put the car in reverse gear any more.

Any suggestion about what the problem could be?

Thanks

Thanks, Loren

The cigarette lighter fuse has failed. I will replace it, but what is the likely cause of the failure? Should I check anything in the car electrical system?

Thanks

Thanks, Loren.

I had reached 100° C, that, I thought, was already hot. I will pay attention to the fans if I get to 101° C. If everything is per specs the fans should switch on.

Stage 1 is switched on when the coolant temperature is > 100° C

or

there is an AC demand, the intake air temperature is > 8° C and terminal 15 is switched on.

Stage 2 is switched on when the coolant temperature is > 105° C

or

the refrigerant pressure is > 16 bar

On my 996 rhe rad fans turn on only when the A/C is on. If the A/C is off, the rad fans stay off, doesn't matter how hot is the engine.

Has anybody experienced a similar problem and how can this be corrected?

Thanks

Noted. Thanks

Read this thread. Search here,Renntech, for ignition switch problems and replacement DIYs

http://forums.rennli...ion-switch.html

Thanks for the tips

Phillip,

If I understand your problem: you insert your key, try to turn it but cannot. You wiggle the wheel, the key and finally the key turns and the car starts but it doesn't seem like wiggling the wheel really helps.

I've not had this problem but if I were troubleshooting this problem, I'd break it down as a) key, B) key slot and c) wheel lock mechanism. your description seems to preclude "c". I would then focus on a and b. if you haven't yet, try another key. does that help at all? if not, you focus should be on the key slot. perhaps lubricant will help (I'd do some searches to see what kind of lubricant is recommended)

good luck,

GA

Occasionally the ignition switch of my 911 gets stuck in the off position.. Trying to move the steering wheel does not seem to help. However, after playing with the key for a while I have always been able to eventually start the engine (at least, so far).

Any idea about what is causing the problem?

Thanks

A easier, and neater, approach would be to use the bleeders on the calipers to vent off the fluid while changing out the pads. As you should be flushing the system on a regular basis anyway, doing it after swapping out pads would put your system in an optimum performance condition..................

Thanks for your note. The brake fluid in my car has been replaced not too long ago. I have excess of fluid in my reservoir and i would prefer to take some fluid out

Just use a couple of those eye glass screwdrivers (facing each other at 180) to pry around the edge of the cap and it should come out.

It came out. Thanks. I just wanted to make sure that there was nothing securing the screen to the reservoir I was not aware of

A easier, and neater, approach would be to use the bleeders on the calipers to vent off the fluid while changing out the pads. As you should be flushing the system on a regular basis anyway, doing it after swapping out pads would put your system in an optimum performance condition..................

Thanks for your note. The brake fluid in my car has been replaced not too long ago. I have excess of fluid in my reservoir and i would prefer to take some fluid out

As I remember, underneath the cap is a screen. In all the times I have replaced pads with spreading the calipers I have not drained fluid from the reservoir. I just loosened the cap and put a rag over the top in case there was any spillage. If the fluid is all the way at the top you might need to remove some, but not if it is as the full mark.

Thanks for your note. The fluid level in my reservoir is already above the screen (and above the max line). This is why I would like to take the screen out and, using a seringe, suction some fluid out of the reservoir.