98Boxster98

Wow. The same thing happen to me more or less. I bought a cheap switch on ebay and all was well for a little while. Maybe a month or two. Then I got an airbag light, got it cleared by the dealer but it soon returned. I bought the Durametric OBDII tool to clear the alarm but soon after I cleared the airbag light alarm, it would return. I noticed error code that I didn't know what it meant and I posted a message here. Loren helped me trace it back to the ignition switch. I bought a new switch (actually two, one for backup) from the Audi dealer and like magic, no electrical problems for about six months now. The switch I have is as described by Tool Pants. There's a logo that has LK with a circle around it and it says Made in West Germany.

I got my glass top from Cabrio World, who buys them from Robbins Top. Quality

Cabrio World used to get there glass window tops from GAHH but perhaps they have switched suppliers.

Another interesting item on ebay is that there is a defroster harness from sales4pnparts (Harvey, the same guy who sells inexpensive but nice doors sills):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-BOX...sspagenameZWDVW

I believe the OEM version is $150.00

It looks like Robbins Auto Top is offering a pre-2003 top with a glass window. For some adventurous soul close to Oxnard, CA, there may still be an opportunity to get a free top:

http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/homepage.html

Prices for this top on ebay seem good. Anybody have one of these?

I bought an ignition switch on ebay last year and almost exactly one year later I was getting an alarm code for a Terminal 86S problem (no warning lights on the dashboard, just a code seen through the Durametric tool.) I replaced the switch with one bought from an Audi dealer (has Made in Germany decal!) and it got rid of the alarm. We'll see how long it'll last. The guy working the part counter remarked with a bemused look, "Porsche uses these?"

Possible cause of fault:

• Pin 86 S is not detected when terminal 15 is switched on

• Fuse E1 faulty

• Short circuit to ground/open circuit in wiring between the alarm system control module and the ignition lock

• Ignition lock faulty

Hi Loren:

In step 2, I only measure 1.2V from Pin 1 to ground. Ground is taken at the door hinge or at the door lock catch. Fault 25 is intermittent. What does step 5 say?

Oops - never mind. I see step 5 is a separate attachment. What is meant by the "ignition lock?" I'm not sure what plug is being referenced.

Perhaps this is the plug being reference?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ded&show=&st=

Which is terminal 86S. I change the ignition switch about a year ago. Maybe it's going bad?

P.S. Just bought another ignition switch from the Audi dealer (doesn't seem like you can enough of them around.) On the new switch Pin 86S is labeled so I should be able to trace the problem to the harness or the switch. Hopefully, it's the switch.

Thanks for your help.

If that is a fault code 25 -- No pin 86 S recognized then it would be fuse E1.

That would be the fifth row down from the top - first fuse on the left (7.5A).

If the fuse is good (when tested with a meter) then you may have a short to ground. If that is the case then look for water under the driver's seat.

Hi Loren - Thanks for the answer. I guess the Durametric software has a typo. The E1 fuse checked out okay and it looks dry, although dusty underneath the driver's seat. You are correct - the fault code is 25. What problems might a 25 fault cause? I think everything is working okay with the possible exception of occasional airbag lights. Is there a wiring schematic on the board I can examine?

Can someone tell me where fuse F 5/1 is? I was looking at my alarm faults and there is one that says "No terminal 86 S Recognized. Check fuse F5/1." Does anyone know what that fault indicates?

A person with the screename "ppbon" on the ppbb.com board recently posted a thread showing how he built his own exhaust similar to one that Tool Pants posted.

http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...b=5&o=7&fpart=1

http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...b=5&o=7&fpart=1

A project for the skilled DIYer or the local muffler shop?

I didn't see a link in the previous post so try this -

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=engine++swap#

P.S.

These pictures found here might be helpful:

http://www.instant-g.com/Projects/Boxster34/

More great info:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3159&hl=#

Another mod to consider with the 3.4L mod - Limited Slip Differential

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...6567&hl=Benson#

Somewhere in the archives there is a picture taken at one of the SF Bay area DIY days that shows two guys twisting the shell back in to shape.  When your top mechanism was broken, the clam shell was twisted out of shape.  You need to twist it in the opposite direction.  I would take it off the car and then with another person, one on each end, twist in whichever direction looks right.  From the pictures it looks like the driver's side needs to be twisted in the clockwise direction looking at it from the driver's side of the car.  Obviously go slowly.  Apply a little twist, put it back on the car, repeat a necessary.

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I believe this to be the photo mentioned by ar38070:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...findpost&p=5142

thanks.  where can you find this plexus product?

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It's pretty easy to get. Try googling it. You can get through some online Porsche dealers like Suncoast, or Amazon.com or car care suppliers like sportscarcare.com. Locally, motorcycle shops usually carry it.

For routine maintenance, I like Plexus. For cloudiness and light scratches, Renovo.

I remember seeing a mod where the high beam stalk switch triggers the garage door opener.  Where is that?  -  I would like to do that one instead even though this thread describes an ingenious setup.  Way to go Orient Express!

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http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...id=26270&st=0

I hope it works for you. Some of your problems are similar to mine but things like the clock resetting may be because there's a loose connection to your battery or maybe your battery is being fully charged. Does your car start strong? What model battery did you use?

www.ppbb.com

Oh yeah - you probably want to check if you have any OBDII fault codes.

Try this link:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=557&hl=#

It's also on the DVD set, stalk install, for sale in the Special Offer section of this forum!

Again, I suggest searching the board for more information. On our year cars, a plain ignition switch is no longer available from Porsche; you have to get it from a VW/Audi dealer - pn 480.905.849B. It's about $30. Porsche does not sell the switch anymore and only specifies a whole ignition switch assembly because of a design change. It's quite a bit harder to install and costs 4x as much. Is the new one better? Maybe but I figure it took 7 years for the one on my car to get flaky and I can change it 4 times to equal the cost of the new design.

I have not received my switch yet but if you read the threads, some people have had an easy time (5 minutes) and other took awhile longer. I guess it helps to be limber as you have to get underneath the dashboard. You will also need a tiny screwdriver for use in a cramp area. The threads offer many creative solutions for a screwdriver that works. I bought the tiny screwdriver that comes with the Radio Shack Zip Zap cars. There are cheaper alternatives but somebody got a toy out of it.

Random electrical problems can be caused by the '+ignition +switch'. Search the board for ignition switch. I just ordered a new switch and bought a tiny screwdriver in preparation to install it.

Thanks for taking time for creating the write-up, Todd, pictures and all. It's a great contribution to the DIY community. I'm glad you're going with the Instant-G headers and exhaust - I've been interested in them and I look forward to hearing when you have them installed.

If there is interest I have a writeup of a 'how to' procedure that I could make available.  It is still in preliminary stages but gives the basics.  It doesn't explain how to remove the engine as that is well documented in the factory manuals but explains the things that need to be done in order to stick a 3.4 into a '99 boxster.

It is kind of big (the pdf is ~60 mb)

Todd

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Todd:

I'm interested in your write-up of your install when you're finished and await your impressions of changes in the driving experience. Thanks for updates of your experience doing the work. It makes for good reading.

but on further inspection they almost look like to different housings.

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The two housings do look different now that I look at it again. The flush one is the same as the ones on my 98 Boxster. The other one doesn't seem to have a lip on the outer edge. Did you buy you car from a dealer? Maybe the previous owner have some explaining to do.

It's a little tricky but you should be able to fix it. Try this link for side vent removal:

http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Menus/BriseisSubMenu.html

As I read the TSB there are two steps.

One is shortening the antenna wire 100 mm.

The other is removing the insulation on the last 130 mm of the wire.

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Loren - you are right (no surprise.) I guess the black sheath has a metallic weave as described in the TSB and is the shielding. The white wire in conjunction with the black sheath form a coaxial cable in essence. As correctly described by izzyandsue, the white wire should be 130 mm long as measured from the top of the black sheath to the end of the white wire. Izzyandsue doesn't describe cutting the white wire 100mm as described in the TSB and therefore the nonradiating part of cable is longer by 100mm than the TSB method. So the TSB says cut the antenna to the right length and get it away from the A-pillar. For me, getting the antenna farther from the A-pillar seems to have the greater effect.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...code=_9x6_Werks

I hope to get it when I get my next paycheck.