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roadsession

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Posts posted by roadsession

  1. 1b/00 6101 Noises in the Convertible Top -- Aug 24, 2001

    1a/00 6101 Noises in the Convertible Top -- Oct 27, 2000

    1/00 6101 Noises In The Convertible Top -- Sep 15, 2000

    4/03 6110 Rattling Noises From The Cabriolet Top -- May 23, 2003

    Done them all!

    None of these have to do with the wind or whistling sound when the car is driven at speed...

    Could be from anywhere I guess - window, misaligned hood, mirrors.... argh

  2. Fault codes 10, 11, 26, 27, 39

    Ignition circuit, passenger

    Possible cause of fault

    - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the wiring between the passenger airbag unit and the airbag triggering unit

    - Passenger's airbag unit faulty

    - Triggering unit for airbag faulty

    Thanks for the information. Sounds like a trip to the dealer to get this resolved :-(

    Would appreciate an update...

    Thanks!

  3. Hi all, my 2000 996's airbag light has come on (with a littel over 50K on the odometer) and I am unable to reset it with my OBD II diagnostic scanner. Is this an item that must be reset at the dealer or will disconnecting the battery do the trick? There does not appear to be anything wrong with the aibag but I could be wrong.

    You suggestions will be appreciated!

    I had that light earlier this year - was fixed by previous owner at the dealer by replacing seat belt buckle drivers side.

    Over the weekend I got the airbag failure light again - could be passenger side?

    What was your fix?

  4. P0456 Fuel Tank Ventilation System (Minor leak) - Below Limit

    Possible fault cause

    - Tank cap seal

    - One or several leaks in fuel tank ventilation system

    Check the o-ring on the gas cap too.

    In a few rare cases the EVAP canister purge valve cracks or leaks.

    Loren - thanks for this.

    You don't happen to have a part number handy and a place I can buy a replacement gas tank cap do you?

    Thanks!

    Wait I think i found it.

    The car is an 02. maybe I will just replace this as a preventative

    http://www.bestsourceautoparts.com/partsCa...ageFrom/catalog

  5. P0456 Fuel Tank Ventilation System (Minor leak) - Below Limit

    Possible fault cause

    - Tank cap seal

    - One or several leaks in fuel tank ventilation system

    Check the o-ring on the gas cap too.

    In a few rare cases the EVAP canister purge valve cracks or leaks.

    Loren - thanks for this.

    You don't happen to have a part number handy and a place I can buy a replacement gas tank cap do you?

    Thanks!

  6. So I tried to get my new to me 996 C4 Mk2 that was PPI'd with flying colors last Friday through emissions testing.

    IT FAILED! There is no CEL.

    It failed because of a "OBDII NOT READY" error.

    Apparently if the battery is disconnected and reconnected it can give you this error as the sensors are relearning, and avoids emission 'cheaters'.

    Perhaps during the PPI the battery was disconnected? Whatever the case is there a procedure to get the car to be OBDII ready quickly?

    I saw this on the 993 section - does this apply to the 996 Mk2?

    "That was my entry in response to jstahmann's need to run through the "readiness cycle". Our ever diligent fed & state smog patrol made sure that their evil constituents don't try to fool them by reseting the emissions trouble codes and dashing to the inspection station for a quick read before they trigger again.

    At the same time the OBDII cpu codes are reset, the "readiness codes" are also reset. The readiness code indicates whether each of the 8 system sensors have completed it's diagnostic check. So the inspection station doesn't see a trouble code but also sees that the readiness code is off (actually it reads more than "0").

    Once the CE light is cleared the following readiness cycle can be followed to reset the code or you could drive the car for a while in a variety of situations that would allow each system to do it's thing:

    Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

    Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

    Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

    Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.

    Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may interchange.

    routine will be discontinued whenever:

    Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM

    Large fluctuations in throttle angle

    Road speed exceeds 60 MPH

    Hope this helps y'all.

    The route that I took did have some starts and stops in it, but as long as you follow the instructions not to exceed 3k rpm, don't make large throttle fluctuations and don't exceed 60 mph until complete, it worked (as least for me).

    "

  7. I got the newer version of the kit, that has the thin sheet metal surround (setter?). There were no instructions included but I got the general idea after trial and error fitting it a few times.

    It does not work as illustrated. Two major issues:

    1) The cage is not securely located in the opening. The setter does not make up for the fact that there is not enough plastic to support the cage. I think my photo shows that pretty clearly. Bending a few tabs (which need customizing/trimming by the way) around the small bit of side plastic still allows quite a bit of up and down motion of the cage.

    2) The depth, which is fixed when using the setter, is wrong. I put the whole **** thing together another time, and discovered that the trim wouldn't fit since the front of the head unit stuck out a couple of mm too far. I double checked it, and the setter was perfectly flush with the plastic. I even tried dremeling away a bit of the plastic, but once I realized I would have to cut away a precise amount of the skimpy remaining plastic to make it fit and keep it level--thereby making the installation even less stable--I removed the setter and added the plastic bars, which positioned the cage perfectly and securely on all three axes.

    And about the tabs--I have to say that trimming, bending, unbending, adjusting and rebending soft metal around the small remaining strips of plastic is a very kludgy way of securely mounting the cage. It's clear that there are significant differences between the Boxster, 996 (and for Luis, I'm sure the double DIN 996 as well).

    What would be best is a truely fitted, drop-in solution.

    Perhaps the Porsche PCM version of the plastic support frame is a better starting place?

    Perhaps you should provide a fitted plastic spacer that takes up the gap between the metal sleeve and the plastic support frame? That might allow enough depth and area for a couple of holes so the D-I-Yer could screw it together and ensure precise fitment.

    Has everyone with a 996 found the above to be true?

    I just bought one - waiting for it to arrive. Should I toss the "setter" and use the plastic bars?

    If I toss the setter how do I screw the HU in?

    Thanks

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