Thklinge

Used sensors (complete with the linkages) cost around 40-50 bucks each. Then you need two connectors and some wire. If you tip 150 bucks you've bought beer on the way. And faint of heart? It isn't difficult at all to pull three wires from each drivers side wheel well to the front compartment. There will be some disassembly required to get them tucked in neatly, but it's just a few hours work. Sounds like no one has done this before, and that adds to the fun of it so I'll do it and report back. I need another sensor as DC Automotive sent just one, so it will be over easter before I can try. Probably just a test setup to check if the full functionality is enabled before I pull wires through the car. :) Still need a part number for those connectors though. Any ideas?

I've already swapped my headlights for Litronic ones and got Xenon low beams. Worked great with just a plain swap. The halogen high beams however was pretty poor stuff compared to my previous car with bi-xenons so I put a aftermarked HID-kit in the high beams. The "slim ballast"-kits were small enough to be able to fit inside the housing, worked great. I had a control module laying around so I ordered the harness off ebay and got the full functionality of the factory retrofit kit, with rotation on ignition and rotate up when you hit the high beams. So far, all good. I live in Norway and the bi-annual inspection is strict when it comes to Xenon headlights. To comply with regulations I must have headlight washers (got em), and automatic leveling. The rotation on ignition might fool the authorities but I'd rather not take any chances. So, to get automatic leveling I need some part numbers and some hints on cable routing. The control module is the same on retrofitted and original cars, but I haven't tried if it responds to the sensors without any hassle or if it wants a connection to the DME for it to work properly. The connection is easy, only three wires: Ground, +5V and sensor-data. But to the point: * The connector that goes into the sensor, what's the part number? The sensor itself has 996 631 121 00. * I've tried going through repair manuals, wiring diagrams and other documentation and haven't found out where the cables are routed. The front one is pretty easy I guess, but the rear one is a bit more of a challenge. Any tips on where / how to route the cable to the front would be appreciated. I guess I'm not so lucky that the harness has a part number and is readily available from Porsche?

According to teile.pl, the 03 part (996 505 980 03) has the centre plug: Teile.pl: There is a part number for the plug: 996 505 985 00. Couldn't find out much about it, but that's the number stamped on the back of mine. Sidenote, are the scoops on the back of the intakes included in the 996 505 980 02/03 part? Not the ducts all the way in to the radiator, but the 996 505 982 00 / 996 505 981 00 parts.

Bump?

Are there adapaters available to allow the fitting of a Cayman / Boxster-2 / 997 steering wheel in a 996? The airbag would be one-stage instead of two-stage, but that's ok. I've tried checking ebay / Google / FVD but came up short. Any ideas?

It's true that 996 C4s use a VC for delivering power to the front axle. Based on that I got the recommendation to forget about C2 vs C4 and let other criteria decide, as the C4 didn't pull that much better from a standstill than the C2s. My 996 has the 220 option (Locking differential (40%)), which is a mechanical limited slip differential. It has the electronic traction control system as well which is the "virtual" one that uses the brakes and reduces the throttle to reduce slipping. I usually keep it off on winter roads, it's much more fun to drive sideways... ;) A C4 in trouble:

I run my 996 on Nokian Hakkapeliitta R winter tyres (245 rear and 225 front, 18 inch) in the wintery conditions of Northern Norway. The car works excellent, no hickups at all. It's a C2 but with a lot of weight on the rear and the LSD option it still has an amazing level of grip. I haven't gotten stuck or met hills I couldn't climb yet. Everything is better with pics: And an example of how bad it gets up here, my previous car: Use silicone lubricant on the door seals, that should make the work well, even when it's freezing outside.

19 when I bought my first (it was a 924 though). Bought a proper one (the 996) at 29.

So no one has any actual experience with this and a proper solution?

I've got this problem on my 996 and a friends 996 is the same. If you just have a wet doorliner (especially the fabric part around the speaker at the front of the door) then forget drain lines, they have nothing to do with it. Some suggest it's the membrane on the inside of the door (basically just plastic glued to the inside of the door). Problem is that water will still enter the car through the holes where the plastic pins that hold the door liner are popped on as the penetrate the membrane. I haven't done the process on my car yet, but the outer door seal is probably the way to go. It's the rubber part that sits between the door and the glass on the outside of the car. See item 4:

If he has PCM1, the manual isn't there.

Thought the 996 didn't get can-bus until '03, and dot matrix from '01. I might mix the info with what was delivered on the Boxster though.

Got a '98 996 and think the newer dot-matrix-equipped instrument clusters looks **** cool (reason enough!). Is it possible to swap my instrument to a newer one and will a Durametric cable & software be able to enable everything needed to make the new cluster work? I managed to searching my way to find that the older cars have a 26 pin connector while the newer ones use 32 pins. WIth the correct pinout schematics would it be possible to get the correct signals at the correct place or are we talking apples and pears here? The threads I was finding were 5-7 years old so some other solutions might have presented itself since then... The cluster I'm looking to buy has the following info: VDO 110.080.019/003 996 641 215 00 70 C TYP RDW