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Everything posted by Thklinge

  1. I fed it from the dashboard, as there is where the switch was located. And then from them switch under the carpets and the rear seat, under the sub and then down into the engine bay through the rear self.
  2. hehe, way to revive an old thread. I got it installed, wasn't too hard. And hooked up to an original Porsche exhaust switch (with a clear coating to match the other switches). That car is sold now, the Turbo I have now has a Milltek exhaust, no switch :)
  3. Did a thorough test with Durametric today and found code 4201 on the ABS system (front right sensor - signal implausible). Guess the sensor is dirty or bad, and that explains the ABS/PSM errors. Still nowhere closer to an solution for the hesitation though. Any thoughts?
  4. Flash from EPL. Tried stock, same hesitation. Haven't checked AFR, what should I be looking for / what parameters to log? Not sure about boost control, car was tuned before I bought it. Trottle body was cleaned (although not very dirty) without removing it from the car. Removing it, cleaning it even more, and checking the egas electronics/mechanics is on the todo-list. Not sure about the wastegates either. Turbos have a larger compressor side as far as I know. Car was running great when I got it about a year ago. It's gotten progressively worse unless my mind plays tricks on me. It most definitely wasn't hesitating it when I got it.
  5. Got an '02 Turbo with 67k miles on it, upgraded turbos, new motorsport DVs, chip, 100 cell Milltek exhaust, 5 bar FPR, and so on. Pulls strongly, no problems at WOT or spirited driving at higher rpms. The problem is a slight hesitation when getting back on the throttle at low rpms that's been getting progressively worse. Most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear. I apply a bit more throttle to accelerate but the car seems to cut for half a second before pulling its **** together and giving me some power. It happens at low rpms, so I guess its not boost related. As it happens with the clutch engaged I guess it isn't driveline-related. Happens both with engine hot and cold. Tried disconnecting the MAF without change. No CEL, no errors in Durametric. New plugs. The oil pressure dips at the same time as the car hesitates, which could suggest something variocam-related, but I tried the drivelinks activations for the variocam system and the rpms changed for all of them. Probably not a fail-safe way to test the system, but at least it responds. Can the dip in oil pressure be indicative of something else? The serpentine belt squeals when wet. I replaced it and it still squeals. Not sure if that is related. I sometimes get an PSM/ABS-error, usually just while coasting. They disappear the next time I start the car and drive away. Could indicate a bad MAF or bad connection, but the hesitation is still there even with the MAF disconnected so it probably isn't related to the hesitation? Searching the issue yields a lot of answers like MAF, vacuum leak, boost leak, bad plugs, broken variocam solenoid brackets, loose plugs, bad coilpacks, dirty trottlebody, worn clutch, worn egas cogwheels, dirty egas potentiometer, and so on... So I'm looking for some hints before I start to throw money at the problem. Although I did buy six new coilpacks so I have started...
  6. The sylinders on the M96 engines go more and more oval over time, until they eventually crack. Hartech and others reinforce the engine block to prevent further "ovaling", which is said to be a permanent fix. How will new oil stop that process?
  7. New oil every six months(!!) will do nothign to prevent your sylinders from going oval ;)
  8. Top 10? * Drive it like Porsche meant it (use revs, but on hot engine only) * Swap engine oil yearly * Follow Porsches maintenance program. That will be the best you can do and the first one will reduce the chance of IMS-failures. As for oval cylinders the only solution is to send the engine in for a cylinder reinforcement.
  9. foot well lights were standard on the turbo, optional on all other models. '02 ROW 996TT, no footwell lights.
  10. My 996 C2 has recently started misbehaving, it's getting harder and harder to select second, fourth and sixth gears. All the forward ones work ok (reverse, first, third and fifth). There is also a squealing sound when I put in the sluggish gears, as is it audible inside the car, I reckon it's from the ball joints in the shifter. I do have the B&M short shifter installed, but it has worked fine for 1,5 years. Could this be as easy as lubing up the ball joints again or am I looking at something more problematic here?Also, we've gotten a fair deal of snow lately and the temperature is below freezing, if that can be related?Pic related, kinda:
  11. To finish this off: Turned out that the ICV (idle control valve) had stopped moving as smoothly as it should. Cleaned it out and the idle got normal again. The car still gave worse mileage than usual and in the following MOT it failed on emissions. The dealer suspected a vacuum leak and left it up to me to decide what to do. I picked it up, thinking that I'd have a check around for a leak when I had the time. But after 15-20 minutes of driving it started running real rough with low power, and a really rough idle, it felt like it was running on five cylinders, or less. Returned the car, but the dealer insisted that they didn't do anything that could have made the problem worse. Still, they requested the coils from the old engine, replaced them and the plugs. No improvement. I was annoyed as the car ran fine before I sent it in for MOT, except for the poor-ish mileage. After a few days of work, they concluded that it had to be a vacuum leak and wanted to drop the engine to check. That was a time consuming (=costly) process and I was quite thorough in checking all hoses and connections when the "new" engine got put in so I felt a major vacuum leak wasn't that likely. Even worse, the dealer didn't have time to take the car back in for another three weeks and seemed pretty reluctant to do work on it, probably because they didn't have a good understanding of what the problem was. Went back with my laptop and a Durametric cable to check what was what. Found seven(!!) error stored, deleted them and fired it up. Car ran fine! Was rather puzzled and drove off. Kept the laptop on and connected so I could check for any error codes that might pop up as I drove home. The first two were to different error codes for the O2-sensors, then after about 15-20 minutes an O2-adaption error was thrown and the car started to run rough again. These were the only codes thrown, since the car isn't US spec it didn't light up the CEL. Reset codes, restarted the engine and it worked properly again. Turns out the engine does an O2-sensor adaption process if the battery is disconnected or ECU is reset. It has emergency programs for sensor failures, but apparently not for dual O2 failure. My 996 is an early ROW vehicle so it only has pre-cat sensors. These are things that the dealership should know... Anyways, when installing the new engine, the exhaust was swapped over. As you would expect, the nuts and bolts connecting the cats to the headers was rusty and broke on disassembly. Quite a bit of heat and a rather large hammer was required to separate the parts and that heat and judders killed the O2 sensors. Installed new sensors, an easy job with no other disassembly required and the car was fixed! No error codes, correct emissions and proper mileage. Job done. Still not to hot about the 996 Carrera though, but I'll probably keep it over the winter and look for a 996TT in the spring. Keeping my fingers crossed that the engine lasts that long... Some photos to brighten up an otherwise sad thread, taken a few days after it finally got sorted:
  12. Ok, that's too bad. Are the MY02 diagrams available somewhere online? I searched the download-section here and found nothing. Also checked http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manuals/manuals_porsche.html but they only have the 98-00 wiring.
  13. I came here looking to start a thread on this book and here it is, excellent! Unfortunately, it looks like the electrical schematics are the same ones as in the factory manual, correct? If so I guess they don't cover rain sensing wipers? I'm doing a bit of replacement work (the factory AWS12 system is TERRIBLE), but need better schematics to simplify the job. Does anyone mind looking up wipers in the manual and see what's covered? I'd be happy to buy the book if the information I need is in there.
  14. There really isn't anything near where the engine enters and exits the engine bay so you'd have to be pretty clumsy to pinch cables. The main connectors are huge and not possible to swap around or insert the wrong way. As for the O2-sensors, they are located on opposite sides of the engine bay and won't even reach the wrong connector. Good ideas though.
  15. They're on their way so we'll see if that was all. Peculiar that both should fail though. Sitting for two months might have added to it I guess, or the heat we used to get the old bolts out.
  16. Recently replaced my engine (it's a 996..) and noticed that the fuel consumption was worse than before. The car also leaves black residue (unburnt fuel?) on the rear, but only on the right side. Had the car at the local Porsche dealer for a bi-yearly inspection and it failed smog testing. They said it was probably pulling false air in somewhere and to come back when it was fixed. They read out and reset error codes as well. When I picked up the car it was pretty normal until the engine was at normal temp and it got worse, quickly. It hesitated, jumped and sputtered when coasting and ran rough at idle. Sent the car back and they tried replacing coils and spark plugs to no avail. They're reluctant to work on the car as their experience with 911s is limited and the engine wasn't installed by themselves. They're also booked solid for the next three weeks. So I picked it up again, and figured I'd fix it myself. So, the error codes are: P0130 (Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase) P0154 (Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Interruption of Signal) They are thrown after the engine have been running for a few minutes. After reaching normal operating temperature and I think this is when the engine starts to run rough, I get: P1128 (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold) I did a quick data log today, and while "O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. conv." fluctuated normally? ranging between 0,17V to 0,3V (mostly at 0,29 or 0,3), the other one (O2 sensor voltage ahead of cat. c. bank 2) shows 0,41 continously. MAF fluctuates from 1,56 (800 rpm) to 1,86(2100 rpm), didn't redline it. Note that this is a ROW car with O2 sensors ahead of the cats only. The exhaust (with sensors) worked perfectly on the other engine. Is it just bad luck and coincidence that they both failed now or are the errors just symptoms of something else? If this is indeed unmetered air, as they suggested, wouldn't the errors be the same on both banks, and shouldn't it leave black residue on the rear bumper on both sides? I have ordered two new O2 sensors, but they haven't arrived yet so I have yet to test replacing them. Anything else I should check? I'd be happy to log anything else if you need it to get a better picture.
  17. To conclude.. The problem fixed itself over time. Guess the ECU adapting to the new engine or something. Idle normal now. :)
  18. I removed it from the throttlebody and turned on the ignition. The valve makes clicking sounds that I'm not sure was there before or not. It is able to open, as it idles higher when cold (aprox 1050 rpms) and is able to keep a steady high 1500rpm idle when I'm driving. Just not sure that it closes like it should. When the ICV is in the closed position, is it fully and completely closed? Or will it have a few mm's of crack? Can I spray carb-cleaner in it without making things worse? Some will probably end up in the intake, is that a problem for the engine or can I spray happily away?
  19. Ok. But since the idle is correct 10-15 seconds after the car has become stationary, what else can I look at? I'm guessing the valve works correctly but the DME doesn't give the correct valve-setting until it reads 0 mph? Strange..
  20. What tools are required to test it? The ICV is 350 dollars and I'd hate to replace it if something else is wrong. From what I've been able to google people have pointed at vacuum-leaks, MAF (which doesn't come into play at idle?!), AOS, amongst many.
  21. I did, and there was some buildup of gunk in the ICV, but nothing too major. Did a wipe without liquids. If I push the valve with a screwdriver it will easily swing open, and swing back when I remove the tool. It will sometimes close completely, other times leave a 1-3 mm gap. I'm not sure if that's normal behavior and that when it's connected it will use electrical force to close? Or is the proper operating mode that the spring shall close the valve completely when the actuator isn't electrified?
  22. I'd love to, but my OBDII-reader says no errors and the CEL isn't lit.
  23. I recently swapped my engine (it's a 996 Carrera), and got a strange problem. It idles high, at 1500 rpm whenever I clutch (with accompanying poor mileage). It will continue to stay at 1500 rpm, making me look like an idiot around town, until the car has been standing still for 10-20 seconds. It will then idle down to approx 900 rpm like it should. I swapped over the throttle-body from the old engine and it worked perfectly before. I checked the throttle valve and cleaned it out, but it did close properly already. Tried to clean the ICV as best I could, but without liquids. I did notice a clicking-sound from it that I'm not sure I've heard before? It may be related? Any ideas?
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