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Everything posted by Skip

  1. To provide an update to this post, I've completed a lot of testing with the help of many on this and other forums. I've confirmed that the control unit between the seats functions a intended, the temperature sensor in the cabin and caloric feeler sensor in the duct function as expected with resistance changing as temperature changes. My initial fault finding identified a problem with the Engine Compartment Controller (small grey relay on the left in the engine compartment). The internal workings were not allowing the small relay (for front footwell blowers) to actuate - they did work when I opened up the relay and manually depressed the relay tab. I was able to find a used serviceable relay locally after some effort. This solved part one of the problem. The second issue, was that the engine blower had also failed at some point, so it was a chain reaction of sorts. I was able to order a replacement motor from Pelican and installed it yesterday. Amazingly enough, all systems now work with only a minor squeal at start up from the footwell blowers. I'll open those up in the coming week to lubricate them again - guess I didn't do it well enough the first time. I posted several of the processes on the Pelican forum as well at the following link, should anyone need to take a look at the overall testing phases. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/649999-auto-heat-query.html Thanks and good luck Skip
  2. I've been trying to figure out what could be my problem with my automatic heater. Specifically: (1) the footwell blowers don't come on at all, but both do function with direct 12V current (2) engine compartment blower actuates (3) all connections tested as per enclosed diagram A couple of questions: (1) it appears that the additional blower relay under the hood (black round), has pin #85 and #86 reversed as it links to the automatic heater connection between the seats (I'm not sure if this could cause the footwell blower lack of activity or not however - Wt/Grn wire runs from pin #86 to pin 4 - Blk wire runs from pin #85 to pin 3 As I don't quite understand how the relay is supposed to work, am nit sure if this would be problematic (2) Not sure how to actually test the expensive little heater relay in the engine bay (with 12 pins) - I see a lot of posts on how to mod it, but can't find a bench test method Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Skip
  3. Just to close out the discussion - cleaning the contacts on the maine windshield wiper / washer stalk did the trick. Thanks
  4. I have noticed an oil leak at the top of the intermediate seal cap, and am unsure whether it is leaking from the pulley seal above or the intermediate shaft seal. As this area is covered by a steel plate, it is difficult to confirm without possibly dropping the engine. My local dealership tech stated that he has a method of only dropping the rear of the engine partially in order to access this are and replace the seals. Can anyone comment on the viability of doing this myself? I have dropped the engine twice now, and would rather avoid doing it a third time for this task if at all possible. Skip
  5. The battery I have listed in my Pet program for the 76 911 was 999-611-023-90 which has been superseded by 928-611-101-00 (which is a 66 aH battery, same as my 1984 - hope it helps..
  6. Well, receipt, I had to order the right front seal from Dan as well, but it now fits perfectly with no noise - great item.
  7. Although I have an '84 (ROW), it does have a heat shield (but believe the bumper is off a North American spec car. The part number for mine is 930-505-511-00, but you would have to have the bolt holes in the top front edge of the bumper to screw it on (3 holes), which use M6x10 bolts (part number 900-278-024-09) with A6,4 washers (part number N-011-524-7). The heat shield (Porsche OEM) is available through Pelican parts for about $178 US. Not sure if it would fit a '77 Turbo, as it only lists it starting at a '78 option. Hope it helps.
  8. Mine does exactly the same thing - somewhat unnerving, but realistically, check the oil off the dipstick when engine is running at temp, for that extra comfort.
  9. Well it appears that my good fortune was short lived. Yesterday (not that warm) and the same problem arose again. While I had the signal light on (left and right - tried both), I applied the hazard light switch to see what would happen. Result - turn signal indicator in tachometer went out, and hazard light switch lit up, but did not blink. The hazard light switch is new also, so am wondering whether this could be a grounding out in the switch itself? Have been looking at the wiring diagram (enclosed), and am wondering whether it could be the wiring coming from the hazard light switch to the relay and beyond to the switch (colour blk/wh/grn) or perhaps the live wire originating at the ignition switch (X) running through the light switch (75) and then to turn signal switch (30), although I don't quite understand the voltage flow through this circuit. Skip Exterior Lights (1984).pdf
  10. Well, I'm now back to establishing my problem with the rear window defroster. I have conducted several tests (incl testing the defroster relay at the rear, and all seems ok - at least to the to pin connector after the relay with red/wh and red/blk wires which appear to go to the rear window. I also believe that the two ben ground wires come in and attach directly behind the fuel filter on the left side of the engine compartment). I believe this ground position is identified as G406, but the Bentley manual does not identify the connection point for the rear window ground wires specifically that I can find. The testing completed is as follows: (1) From the Pelican Site I(Early_S_Man) found the follow test (which all worked as expected): a. Connect pin 31 to ground; b. Connect pin 30 to +12 Volts; c. Connect 86 to +12 Volts - you should hear an audible click inside the relay (which I did); d. Measure voltage at pin 87 with respect to ground... +12 Volts SHOULD BE PRESENT (which it was); e. Connect pin 86a to +12 Volts - you should hear a second audible click (which I did); f. Measure Voltage at pin 87a... +12 Volts SHOULD BE PRESENT (which it was); g. Disconnect the ground from pin 31; h. Disconnect + 12 Volts from pins 30, 86 and 86a (2) all relay tests above were successful; (3) I then tested the 6 pin wiring harness (which connects to the relay) and noted the following: a. with ignition switch off - no power at any point b. with switch in ACC or ON, power at pin 30 only; c. with defroster switch rotated right (either with or without pulling it out) - power at pin 86a; d. with defroster switch in any position (including rotation) - power at pin 86 (4) after reinserting the relay, I tested the power at the two pin connector and noted a parallel power of +12 Volts at red/blk connection (off pin 87a) only with a right rotation of the switch and +12 Volts at connection (off pin 87) at any switch position (5) I then tried testing the other end of the two pin connector for resistance between the red/wh and red/blk points to ground (G406) but got nothing - am not sure if this was really a valid test however as there are resistance circuits in the diagram (not sure if I did this test wrong?) (6) am now at the point of trying to test each line in the rear window, but wondering also, what the best methodology is to do this? (7) Two additional things, I tested the rear window defogger base (on the driver side) with switch in on position and a test light - the light came on for a short period of time and then stayed off (not sure why, less perhaps that the relay shut down once load (high resistance) was applied? (8) I also tested the passenger side base to ground and it appears to have connectivity. Thanks.
  11. As a follow up, I tested with both a light and multi-meter. Light fluctuated. Found the issue at the main lever switch (contacts on column arm are corroded. Managed to get some joy externally with electrical contact cleaner, but will be taking the column apart over the weekend to clean thoroughly. Cheers
  12. Thanks for the reply - I'll give it a whirl today or tomorrow (Labour Day weekend here in Canada). Not sure what a J West relay kits is, but sounds like an interesting option. Can you explain further? Skip
  13. OK, so as a follow up, I've managed to figure out the issue. Although power was in fact getting to the pump, it fluctuated between about 9.2 - 11 V for no immediately apparent reason. I have confirmed which connector is for the wiper switch by back tracking from the wiper intermittent relay behind the blower / fresh air plenum. After having removed the blower I disconnected the relay and applied my ohm meter to test continuity between the red/wh power lead and the yellow line that branches off down the line to the pump (blk lead). when I applied the washer switch at various wiper speed settings, some had no connectivity and others fluctuated. I sprayed in some electrical contact cleaner and let it sit a bit, and then played with it for a bit at each setting. It now functions, although I want to take the switch lever out to properly clean the contacts. Can anyone tell me if once the switch lever is out of the steering column whether I can partially disassemble it to properly clean the contacts? Thanks Skip
  14. Well, it seems like electrical troubleshooting will continue on my 1984 ROW 911 Targa. My problem: The windscreen washer pump will not actuate when using the drivers steering column lever. When I connect power direct to battery it functions exactly as expected. I have cleaned off the ground connections at the battery ground point and have even run a direct ground to the battery to determine if there was a ground wire fault when under load. No change. I have applied a volt meter to the leads and get readings with slight fluctuations between 9.5 and 11.70 Volts, but do have power. When I look at the wiring diagram in my Bentley manual it appears to have a simple circuit from the lever, through the 6 pole plug underneath the dash and onward to the pump, without going through a relay or fuse as those appear on the other side of the circuit. I'm not sure which 6 pole connector it actually is as there are two beside each other with no visible colour coded wires from either, but both go to the steering column which makes sense to me based on the two levers on the column. I was thinking about trying to run a direct line from the switch and bypassing the blk power lead, but this assumes I know which 6 pole connector it is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Skip
  15. I recently replaced the washer motor with a new Porsche one as the old one was not stock and didn't appear to be working properly. The new one works perfectly when connected directly to battery with washer activation occurring as expected. When I connect it to its own wiring however (confirmed correct connectivity, it is sporadic. I have confirmed power at the harness end every time I pull the steering column leaver, but other than that I can't figure out why this could be intermittent. I have looked in my Bentley manual at the electrical circuit and can only guess perhaps its the pulse transmitter relay, although in the book it refers to it as the headlight washer relay only. The circuit appears to flow through it either way (of note, the headlight washers actually work as designed). Is there a way to test the relay (P/N: 928-618-111-00 Hella Reinigungs-Steuergerat). I do understand what this means and seems correct as the item in question. There is also a reference to a potentiometer on the electrical diagram, but not sure whether that is integrated into the above part, or elsewhere. Thanks. Skip
  16. Ordered one from Dan - thanks much for the recommendation. Look forward to its arrival nest week. Skip
  17. Will do - thanks ever so much (another weekend job coming. Skip
  18. Hi, I have an aftermarket hardtop for 1984 ROW 911 Targa that has never sealed properly nor does it fit in any part of the car to take it along. My intent is to buy a used one in the coming weeks and am looking for any recommendations as to buying one in excellent shape, versus buying an average one with strong frame and replacing the materials myself. Any help would be appreciated. Skip
  19. Good Afternoon, Am currently cleaning up the dashboard area and noticed that the vinyl pad covering the glove compartment as well as the small edge around the radio are not adhering as they should. Am just wondering if this is glued normally and double-sided tape, so I can properly repair it. Thanks. Skip
  20. Sorry about the delay - ordered a new relay and there we go - click click, click click as intended. Thanks Skip
  21. Hi, Although I don't have the details for a 79 930 wide, I am enclosing tire details for 84-89 (not sure if they are similar, but could give some indications. Hope it helps. As for headlight washer, can't help - sorry Porsche 84-89 Workshop Manual (Final) 393.pdf
  22. I had a problem with the upper bearing (right below the steering wheel) - the rubber bushing had dried out and was allowing the wheel to move up and down and knock. I managed to remove it with a lot of effort, but noticed that bearing ring itself was not full of small bearings - some had fallen down the column out of the back I guess), but I couldn't see them nor find any with a magnet. After reassembly I now appear to have a problem with full rotation of the column - it jams. I removed the ignition switch thinking there was perhaps something wrong with it, only to have a couple of bearings fall out of the hole where the steering lock inserts, but the problem persists, so I expect there are more in there, that are wedged somehow. I noted on the parts diagram that there is no other way out without removing the shaft itself and creating a hole for them to escape. I would rather not try to take out the upper bearing again, so am working on removing the column to pop the shaft out the base of the column tube. (1) is my idea viable? I not that there are circlips on both sides of the lower bearing but only one outside the upper bearing which I have removed. If i drive out the shaft through the base after removal from the car, would it push the lower bearing out? I don't have a bearing extractor. If it damages the circlip, I do have a spare. (2) in trying to remove the u-joints off the shaft, I have loosened the bolt / nut in the C-portion of the u-joint, but rust hinders my progress to separate the pieces, am using copious quantities of penetrating oil to get into the rusted area, but no luck so far - any ideas? Thanks Skip
  23. That was my thought also - I'll give it a try. Thanks.
  24. Hi, Well, we've finally had some temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius, and my turn signal has become intermittent. It seems to stop blinking when it gets warm inside the dash through sun. Works better on the highway as it gets cooled a bit and first thing while still in the garage. Hazard Lights don't work when this happens either. Am wondering whether the relay could be faulty to cause this? I opened up the relay (popped the plastic cap) and cleaned it out with electrical contact cleaner but no change. Thanks Skip
  25. I have an '84 3.2 Li and the blower to which you are referring feeds the heating system (I have the automatic thermostat controlled heater between the seats and the blower kicks in when I engage the heater - to push the heat from the engine, through the heat exchangers on the base of the engine, and onward down either side of the car rocker panel area. Then there are two additional footwell blower motors to further move the air into the cabin (left and right side of the driver / passenger foot area respectively). I would think that the blower is only linked to the heating system / or when your engine reaches a specific temperature, it could activate to remove some of the surface heat. Not sure this would be linked to a car starting problem though, as mine only engages once the engine is running and the temperature increases.
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