mffarrell

If I had to guess I would say the short ones are 10-12 mm, and the long one is approx.15 mm. The bolts are a hex/flange type.

6 hours ago, Loren said:

Sorry, need more specific information to look up part numbers.

Exact model and year of the car as well as what major area we are talking about (engine, transmission, etc.).

2003 996 turbo X50. There are 2 M6 hex bolts that attach the engine pressure pipe 996 110 046 73 (# 2)  to the mounting bracket 996 110 671 70 (# 38). A 3rd longer bolt attaches the AC bracket on the right side of the engine, and the other two shorter bolts mount to the top of the tube.

Thanks Loren!

Anybody have access to the subscription database?

I am looking for the PN for the two bolts that attach the Y tube to the support bracket. PET doesn't show it.

Thanks!

54 minutes ago, binger said:

This website should have what your looking for. Just match your plug and pin out. 

 

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/advanced_search_result.php?x=0&y=0&search_in_description=1&keywords=porsche

Thanks! I saw this website last night, and I was going to take a chance and order one.

Thanks!

8 hours ago, binger said:

Can you please post a picture of the plug that include all the number? I might be able to come up with a source. 

Thanks! I have searched high and low.

2 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

 

Have your taken the old connector into a VW or Audi dealer and asked them to try and match it?

Yes. My dealer suggested that I go to BMW

JP I have been doing exactly that without any luck. The #s on the connector don't seem to mean anything, but thanks!

4 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

Something to contemplate when working on any low or fractional voltage sensor harness: Do not use simple crimp connectors to join wires when replacing harness connectors.  Most crimp connectors are aluminum, and the wires copper, so over time you will develop dissimilar metal corrosion between the two, and the car will develop odd problems like stalling for no reason, fluctuating idle issues, etc.  We have seen this happen on several DIY  MAF harness repairs.  The fix is simple: cut out the crimp connectors to expose clean wire, slide a shrink tube section onto one wire, and then solder the wires together using rosin core solder.  Then move the heat shrink tube into place and heat shrink it to form a weather tight connection.  The idle and low RPM response problems will vanish and never come back.

 

The problem with crimp connectors and their inherent corrosion issue is that the DME relies on a very low voltage signal from the MAF, and any corrosion can significantly alter that signal, leading to problems.  With soldered connections, the signal will always be pure.

JP do you know where I could ge a replacement without purchasing the wiring loom?

Thanks, but no luck.

1 hour ago, creekman said:

I would just leave it as is, I have broken clips all over the car and they stay together, you might get into more trouble changing out the plug than just leaving it alone. Porsche should rethink this failure.  While I'm on a rant there's no consistency on how to release the various electrical plugs and when you do there's a good chance you're going to break one of the release tabs.

Thanks! I wasn't planning to change the plug, I just need the locking piece that comes off the connector.

My MAF connector is missing the locking plastic piece. Where can I purchase a replacement connector plug?

Thanks!

Welcome! And post some pictures of that beast!

Thanks guys

I just ordered this tool from Sunset:

Is this same?

Thanks!

Thanks Loren! Do you have any advice on how to remove the two lines that have red inserts holding them in? I know there is a special tool, which I have ordered, but I am not sure how to disconnect/connect them.

2 hours ago, Loren said:

Exact model and year please?

2003 996 turbo

Thank You!

Does anyone have a DIY for a Power Steering Reservoir Replacement?

Thanks!

Thanks Loren!

I was afraid that there are plastic clips. And you are right, they will probably break. I am not sure the clips are available for purchase. I may just leave it alone.

My driver's side lumbar support doesn't inflate the bladder. I can hear the compressor work, so my assumption is that either a tube is broker or the bladder is toast. How can I remove the bladder?

Thanks!

Thanks guys!

I am looking for the P/N for the blue insets that go into the holes for the inside mirror trim triangle on the driver's side that houses the mirror control switch.

Thanks!

I have the same problem. How does the button stay in place?

Where can I get a PDF version for 2003 TT Owner's Manual? They use to be available here.

Thanks!