mffarrell

The Aero spoiler is doing fine. There is a TSB on this site that has instructions on how to install the Aero spoiler. It's pretty straight forward. I think it took me a couple of hours to complete the job.

 

Let me know if you have any questions, once you get started.

 

Good luck!

Mike

Cool. Let us know how it goes.

I installed the new Bosch AL0815N (997) alternator this morning. It was pretty straight forward, not a big deal. The new alternator definitely solved my charging problem. I purchased from Parts Geeks for $263. Perfect fit and function!

Thanks again for the tip!

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL0815N-New-Alternator/dp/B000IYAAYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467663147&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+al0815n

It's for 997's so it will say not fit a 996 but disregard that. It has a higher amperage capacity, a little longer but it will fit 996's. The best part is it's brand new and relatively cheap so you don't need to take the risks of a reman unit.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL0815N-New-Alternator/dp/B000IYAAYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467663147&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+al0815n

It's for 997's so it will say not fit a 996 but disregard that. It has a higher amperage capacity, a little longer but it will fit 996's. The best part is it's brand new and relatively cheap so you don't need to take the risks of a reman unit.

Thanks for your help. I will order one today.

Bosch

The fitment says it is for a 2005. I have a 2003. Will it fit/work?

 

Thanks!

Yes, that's the right one, the one the cable is connected to directly.

You can replace the regulator first if you don't mind the labor.

If you opt to replace the alternator, get this one AL0815N. It's new and it's on sale on amazon for $250 most of the time (currently it's not).

 

The fitment says it is for a 2005. I have a 2003. Will it fit/work?

 

Thanks!

If your measurement was taken at the back of the alternator (with some kind of a J shape hook), then yes it sounds like your alternator is the problem. Most likely it's the regulator but it also could be diodes failimg inside the alternator.

If your measurement was taken from the engine bay positive jump start terminal right above the a/c compressor, the result is not conclusive.

 

I took the measurement on the right lug behind the alternator where the black power cable is connected to the lug. Is the right lug the correct one? I see there is a lug opposite to the one I tested. I did use a J hook to make contact.

 

Thanks!

 

Making this a separate post for easier searching. If your voltage reading is low but you don't know what causes it, you can do the tests below to identify the culprit(s).

 

All you need is a $15 multimeter and some cables. Run your engine till warm and low voltage shows up, then let it idle and turn on the a/c and the low beam. The current draw from the alternator should now be ~50A. You can then do the following tests.

 

I drew a diagram with the corresponding parts.

 

- Zoom Active -

- Zoom Active -

 

 

Test #1: check voltage drop between point "C" (alternator casing) and "B-" (call that V(C, B-)). Note "B+' and "B-" are the actual battery terminal posts and not the cable connectors on the terminals. This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the ground side. Expect 0.2v or less. If your ground strap is bad, it will show up in this test.

 

Test #2: check V(A, B+) where "A" = alternator output at the back of the alternator that you can't see (use an inspection mirror) and expect ~0.5v or less. "A" is hard to get to. I fabricated a J-shape hook using a stiff insulated wire and just literally probe it blindly from behind. Wear protective goggles here since you will be close to the drive belt, a hot engine, and the always LIVE "A". This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the power side.

 

Test #3: check V(A, J) and expect ~0.2v. This tests #21, which is the infamous cable that can corrode and Porsche has also revised it.

 

Test #4: check V(J, B+) and expect ~0.3v or less.

 

Test #5: check V(A, C), your alternator output and expect 13.5v or higher.

 

Your problem is gonna show up in one of the tests above.

 

Hi Ahsai,

 

I am having a problem with my charging system. When I first start the car the voltage is between 13.5V-13.8V, then drops-off to nominal battery voltage of 12.5V, then will decrease in value the longer I am using power, below 12V. I ran your tests, and did not find a grounding problem. However, when I measure Test # 5 at the back of the alternator (is it the lug on the right?) I essentially measure battery voltage, no charging.

 

Would this issue be an indication of a bad regulator? I did swap another battery and it behaved the same way.

 

Thanks!

 

I found this Porsche parts list and wanted to share with you guys. It also has other models, but still useful.

http://www.weissach.net/PorschePartsSuppliers.html

 

Thank You!

Thanks, I see now. Misunderstanding on my part. I thought you meant using Durametric to enable the cc feature similar to other programmable features in our cars such as auto central lock when car is up to soeme speed. What you meant was toggled the cc on/off on the Durametric screen as if you toggled the button on the end of the cc stalk.

Yes, but by toggling to fixed the problem, but I am not sure why. Perhaps toggling on activates cc? When I toggle off and leave it that way, the cc doesn't work.

 

Glad to hear that. I wonder if the fix was due to cluster power disconnect (hence reset) as oppposed to Duametric though. AFAIK, Durametric can't do any programming on our cars so it shouldn't affect the cruise control behavior.

 

The Pro version is capable of activating the cruise control system, but the Enthusiast cannot.

 

 

I have the Enthusiast with the latest software and I have that feature.

Glad to hear that. I wonder if the fix was due to cluster power disconnect (hence reset) as oppposed to Duametric though. AFAIK, Durametric can't do any programming on our cars so it shouldn't affect the cruise control behavior.

 

I believe the Durametric did the job. I tried the cc after I reinstalled the cluster and reconnected the battery. I could toggle (activate) on/off through my laptop.

You can use Durametric to activate instrument cluster test where all the lights will be turned on during the test sequence.

Problem solved! I plugged the Durametric in and activated cruise control. CC now works. I wonder what caused the instrument cluster to lose activation?

Thanks!

You can use Durametric to activate instrument cluster test where all the lights will be turned on during the test sequence.

Thank you!

The clutch microswitch will have two wires - one is Yellow with Grey stripe and the other wire is black.

Thanks! How do I test the stalk switch that enables cc readiness mode?

If you have access to a PST2 or PIWIS that might help diagnose.

I would not replace the cluster without checking the simple stuff first.

start with fuse B7 (15A) -- use ohm meter to verify it out of the circuit.

then the switches - again you can use an ohm meter to verify.

(click to enlarge)

2003 cruise control 996.jpg

The brake stop lights share the same fuse as the cc, so I would think fuse is ok if I have stop lights. Is clutch/cc switch the red one?

Also, are you saying to ohm-out the cc switch on the stalk? Where is the connector for the cc switch? Anything else to check? Is it possible that the coding is corrupted between the cluster and ecu?

I have a Durametric, but I am not sure I can test the cc with that.

Thanks!

Does cruise control light come on when you just turn the ignition to "on"?

If it does then your problem is in the cruise control.

No, the light doesn't come on the and the cc is inoperative. Do you think this is pointing to a bad instrument cluster or a bad stalk switch? I wouldn't think that the clutch switch would affect at least arming the system with power and a green light. Thoughts?

Thanks!

As I recall the last time they used bulbs in the cluster was MY2001.

So if all the lights are out then you may have a wiring or connector issue. Worse case is a bad cluster.

Hi Loren,

No, just my cruise control light. I know with the older clusters a bad bulb will make the cc inoperative.

Thanks!

Mike

I think this may help because it shows how far you have to get in there to replace the cruise control bulb

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/49303-2003-porsche-996-instrument-cluster-bulbs/

And this might help a little to: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/102-ELEC-Instrument_Cluster_Bulb_Replacement/102-ELEC-Instrument_Cluster_Bulb_Replacement.htm

And this: http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?/topic/59708-how-to-replace-instrument-cluster-lights/

Thanks, but I have the newer cluster, and it appears the bulbs are soldered onto the pcb motherboard. I guess if there is a bad bulb, you have to replace the instrument cluster from what I can tell.

I wish mine was the older style cluster.

Maybe Loren might know if my assumption is correct?

I have read all the threads here on how to access and  replace the instrument bulbs, but I may have a different cluster. My car is a 2003 and the instrument cluster looks different inside from photos posted here.

 

 

My cruise control doesn't work (no green light when button is depressed), so I am hoping it is the bulb. I understand if the bulb is bad (open circuit) the system won't operate.

 

In the attached pictures, do I have to remove the circuit board to get to the bulbs? I believe the cruise control light is behind the speedo? How do I get to the bulb?

I don't want to go much further, as there are a number of ribbon cables that would have to be removed.

 

Thanks!

Thank you Skuyumcu!

Are the PNs below correct for instrument cluster bulbs for a 2003? If so, which bulb is used for the cruise control?

999 631 302 90 Bulb 1.2W

999 631 303 90 Bulb 1.5W

999 631 304 90 Bulb 3W

Thanks!

Thanks Loren!

I think I may try some loopback tests on the FO going to the CD player. I ordered a replacement cable just in case.

If thad doesn't work I will send head unit to Becker for a bench test.

I have a non-Bose CDR-23. that keeps trying to boot-up. It displays Porsche, then repeats the cycle until some time later it finally initializes.

When I pull the fiber optic connector at the CDC-4 unit, the fiber light turns on and off in-synch with the power on/off cycle of the radio.

I am not sure it I have a bad CDR-23 or possibly a fiber issue with the MOST. How do I troubleshoot? I ran a Durametric, and no faults were detected.

Any ideas?

i did all this stuff to no avail. then i unbolted the amp and realized the ground was faulty and coming and going. added a new ground from the anchor bolt on the amp case to the chassis ground and it's FIXED. thanks for being here guys.

I know this is an old thread, but I have the same powering cycle problem on a non-Bose CDR-23. When I pull the fiber optic connector at the CD unit, the fiber light turns on and off in-synch with the power on/off cycle of the radio.

Any ideas?

No, but dealer thought it was no big deal.