mffarrell

It more than likely, cosmoline. My car still smells after 12 years of ownership. You can remove it from the engine and transmission, but it is a 40 hour plus job.

Thanks JP. Is it possible to get access to the PET application?

Thanks Loren! What database did you use to find this information?

I have new set of wheel caps a friend gave me. I am trying to determine which model it will fit.

The part # is 7PP601152A. They are painted in GT silver with the Porsche shield logo, non-concave and the dimensions are od = 76 mm and id is aprox. 60 mm.

Thanks!

I've added the third radiator.  What is the "fan mod" referred to?  I just jumped in on this page, so if it's discussed on a previous page, I'll just apologize for my laziness now and get it out of the way.  120,500 miles and counting. (It's my daily driver.)

Sorry about resurrecting this query, but I would still be interested in finding out what that "fan mod" is all about. TIA!

Radiator Fan and Engine Compartment Fan Switch Mod

The 3.4 996 runs extremely hot when driving around town in temperatures higher than 75 degrees. This mod is a way to reduce coolant temps back to a safer level, helping to reduce oil temps and improving performance.

The mod consists of installing a switch that will allow you to turn on the high speed radiator fans at any time, while maintaining the automatic operation of the fans. We do the same for the engine compartment fan.

Radiator Fans

Connect a wire to the ground of the 2 high speed fan relays located on the relay carrier located in the driver’s side foot well. The relays are #20 and #22. Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and then connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point.

With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on both radiator fans providing maximum cooling. When you turn the key off, the fans will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off.

Engine Compartment Fan

Connect a wire to the ground of the relay located in the relay carrier behind the passenger seat, driver’s side. Relay #8. . Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. I simply fed the wire along the driver’s side of the car and under the door sill. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point.

With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on the fan drawing air into the engine compartment. When you turn the key off, the fan will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off. This mod helps keep the engine compartment much cooler when driving around town and is particularly beneficial to any engine that draws its intake air from inside the engine compartment, such as the EVO SC.

If you are adventurous, you can automate the operation of these switches so they will switch off at a specific speed, or operate when vacuum is present only, etc. You can choose any style switch you want and even use Porsche switches. I simply used 2 toggle switches that I installed in the batwing.

Do the 4 grounds need to be checked/gapped for new plugs, or are they good to go out of the box? If they need to have the gap checked and adjusted, what is the correct way to measure and adjust the gap.

Thanks!

I have a 2002 911 and am looking to replace my driver side rear seat (picture attached)

The leather has cracked. The seat is removable.

Does anyone know where I can find an affordable second hand replacement?

Many thanks

Ben

Ebay, I see many for sale.

What has completely solved this dilemma for me was to change to Hawk HPS Fero-carbon pads.  No pad dust, no squeal, good pedal feel, and long lasting.

 

One other trick to keep road dust, etc. from clinging to the wheel is to coat the inside and exterior of the wheel with Rejex, which is a polymer surface coating originally designed for aircraft.  

 

Google both of these products to find your nearest distributor.

+ 1 on the rejex, that will fix your dusk issues.

I have spent quite a few hours going over many posts about microswitches and window regulator problems and I just wanted confirmation on the diagnosis of the problem I'm currently having with my passenger side window (it only drops ±1mm vs. the ±10mm when pulling on the inside or outside handles, thus the window catches on the A pillar and roof).

 

I have performed the limits reset and still the problem is not solved.  The window will go all the way down and up with the door either closed or open, thus the motor is not the problem.  The window does drop (barely) when pulling on the handles (inside and outside), thus the microswitches seem to be working.  I am able to press the window down with my hand and it does in fact drop a bit.So, is my diagnosis/assumption that the culprit is the window regulator a correct one?

It sounds like you have diagnosed it correctly as a bad regulator. I had the same symptoms as yours on the driver's side. Replaced the regulator, and all is well! If you look at the cable sheathing, I bet you it's bunching-up at the connector, a sign that the cable has stretched a bit.

The thermostat housing is adjacent and to the side and I think it is a mated surface with a small gasket.

 

I think a Tiptronic has an extra connection near there as well.

 

Mike

Replaced the tstat gasket and tstat when I did the water pump.

Could be a possible hairline crack in the engine casing.

Resurrecting an old post.  Have the same issue on an 2014 model.   I applied some tape to my headlights to "protect" them during a DE event.  Removing the tape after the event apparently lifted off sections of the UV coating so now I have multiple defects across the headlights.  Will the sanding kits remove the remaining coating so that I can apply a real clearbra or Xpel type product?  Thanks.

How about your warranty?

Hi,

Has anybody with a cab and a Durametric v 6 tested the rollover module? I can't read my module, and I was wondering if anyone has used it with success?

I am working with Owen at Durametrics, trying new ecu files, but no luck so far.

I wonder if there is a bug in the software?

Thanks!

Did some more snooping on my system (Pro version), it can read and clear roll over system related codes on a 996, but it cannot see real time information about the system and it cannot activate the system.  I did not find any support for the roll over system on the 997 cars.

Thanks JP. I have the enthusiast version, and you could be right that maybe that feature is only available in the pro version. I sent a log file to Owen @ Durametric. He told me it should work when I spoke to him on the phone.

no ideas about 1 and 3 but 2 should work so that's definitely not normal. I have an '03 C2 and 2 works for me. Is your's a genuine Durametric or a clone?

I have a real Durametric, just arrived today from the factory.

I wondering why it can't read the rollover module? I read some where that the module is disabled from the factory, then enabled at the dealership when the car arrives there. I wonder if they forgot to enable?

 

I'm not positive, but the roll over protection system may be a PIWIS only activation.  While Durametric can do a lot, it is not capable of everything the PIWIS does.

 

What I can tell you is that the literature say that is should be tested every two years, and describes how to do that, but only with a PIWIS system.  I did find a tech bulletin on how to turn the system transport lock off, but it also only describes using the older PST II :  http://bethnrayndogs.com/car_docs/Porsche/porsche/Porsche_Tech/Porsche_TECHNICAL_BOOKS/Tech_Bulletins/911Grp6_6-98.pdf

Thanks!

According to the Durametric website, v6 is supposed to support the rollover feature. I spoke to Owen at Durametric, and I am sending them a log file. I am just wondering if it was ever activated by the dealer when I took delivery in 2003.

You may want to check with Durametric then. Their support is pretty good. Usually they will ask you to log your session and send the log to them for analysis. 

 

It's strange though that only SOME of the activation don't work. How about the SAI pump activation?

Ok figured out why activation doesn't work, engine needs to be not running.

As far as the rollover module, I wondering if it was ever enabled?

Thanks!

I did call Durametric, they didn't seem to know much about how exactly the functions work. They told me to look at the porsche service manual.

no ideas about 1 and 3 but 2 should work so that's definitely not normal. I have an '03 C2 and 2 works for me. Is your's a genuine Durametric or a clone?

I wondering why it can't read the rollover module? I read some where that the module is disabled from the factory, then enabled at the dealership when the car arrives there. I wonder if they forgot to enable?

2003 996 Cab

Durametric v6

I just purchased a new Durametric and I am trying to get familiar with the product, but have a few questions:

1. When I try to access the rollover protect module, Durametric can't find it.

2. Some of the activations don't work, low speed fan (high works), eng. comp. purge fan, A/C comp. Haven't checked the rest.

3. When I run v5 I have an alarm code 54, but doesn't show up in v6.

I am just trying to understand what works. Is this normal?

thanks!

I was told by my shop that 220 F is about normal so your temp.needle is about right. Powerwashing twin radiators is on my list to do. I was told the cars tend to run hotter in warm temps.but adding a third radiator kit would drop the temps. 10-15 degrees. Would like to know if anyone here has added a third radiator kit and seen those results.

I don't agree that 220F is normal, unless you are in the dessert. Your temp should be around 185-206. I have a 3rd radiator, and the temp runs about 10F cooler when the car is moving.You may have debris in the radiators, or your H2O pump may be failing. Check to see if your radiator fans turn on around 212F, drop to low speed when temp is around 205F.

2014-07-01 11.36.15.png

They are similar to a sport rim, similar to a GT3 rim. I have them on my car, and they were about a $2k option when I purchased my car. See my avatar.

I took my car into my local Porsche dealer today for a set of new tires and an alignment. The dealer called and said the eccentric bolt was stripped on the rear lower control arm when the tech was trying to torque to 75 ft lbs. I am the original owner, and I have never had the wheels aligned.

Service advisor said it was probably caused from a previous alignment. WTH? How do you strip a M12 bolt with only 75 ft. Lbs of torque?

Now I have to wait until Tues for a new part. Luckily, dealer loaned me a 2014 Cayenne until my car is ready.

Thanks guys, I figured it out. Much better Fitment now.

Yes, did you view the DIY video in the video section?

Yes, I viewed the video before I posted. :)

The front bumper/spoiler should be a mm or two above the front hood. This can be adjusted using the screws under the front hood along with loosening the screws at the fender wells.

The idea is to direct the air flow over the hood - and not get caught at the lip of the hood. If the hood is too high you will get wind noise and potentially high speed handling issues.

Sometimes it is best to have another person hold the bumper at the proper position while you tighten down the screws.

Loren, are you talking about the two screws on top of the bumper? I have already tried loosening the screws under the side markers and hidden screw, and the smallest height that I was able to achieve is the bumper being 3-4 mm higher than the hood lip. I was trying to get the bumper edge even with the hood lip. I am not sure if it was this way before I removed the bumper.

Thanks!

Can you post a pic?

Here are some pictures. The fitting around the head lights seems ok. I am just wondering if the hood is supposed to sit below the bumper edge?

I just completed a 3rd radiator mod to MY 2003 996. My hood sits about 3-4 mm below the edge of the bumper. Is this normal, or should the edge be even with the bumper edge?

I forgot to note the Fitment before I removed the bumper. The bumper seems to fit ok, and I don't see how it can be adjusted to raise it up.

Thanks!