mffarrell

Seems kind of high. Look into both intake vents on the front bumper to see if there is debris next to the radiators.

Just checked with Phil at Sunset.

The green tool ending in 91 (00-721-961-91) is the tool for the short shifter.

The white or orange tool ending in 90 (000-721-961-90) is the tool for the standard shifter.

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I ordered the green tool (00-721-961-91) - $3.13 plus shipping to check and will post once I can confirm.

KBrandsma

Did the tool work for you?

000-721-961-91 - $3.98 List

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Those are the standard shifter tools.

If you have a short shifter (either OEM or B&M) you will need the special one for the short shifter as it has a larger shaft.

Loren do you have theP/N for the short shifter tool?

If it is real it should be a public record.

I wonder if this is fact or fiction? I read the settlement proposal, seems like a lot of verbiage is missing.

Johnny, I bought a small part from Steven's Creek in San Jose. Pricing was very much in line with what online retailers were charging. It also felt good to do business locally. I haven't had the need for a ton of parts, but I look forward to working with them more often. I'm closest to Walnut Creek/Stead, but with my job, I travel all over the Bay area so I can shop around a bit next time I am in need.

Good luck!

I guess I got screwed. I needed a hood badge rubber gasket and 2 speed nuts. They charged me 4X for the gasket, and 3 X for the speed nuts. I ended up paying almost $30 for parts that could be had at Sunset for $8. What a bunch of rip-offs! The parts manager told me they were selling at MSRP, yeah, right!

Let us know if it has the X51 option... It was a pretty expensive (~$15K?) and somewhat rare factory option, but did tweak the engine nicely. X51 engines had, IIRC, slightly higher compression, tweaked camshaft profiles, smoother plenum, dual-port air intake, and some improvements to the oiling system.

Well considering they are already testing it (many many thousands of miles) and it does have a patent pend, my best guess, if everything works out we might see the actual product next year. Who knows though, it might still be in R&D ... they aren't saying much about it yet other than it is a real device and it does work. IMO in theory this is the only way to solve the issue. At that point the only thing that could break a solid bearing would be insufficient lubrication (and then you'd have bigger problems to worry about like spinning a rod or crank bearing). With this solution there are no ball bearings to wear down and fail/etc.

IMHO, I believe the replacement bearing business will decline rapidly once the IMS Solution comes to market... why install a ball bearing when you can have a solid bearing?

Next change, add a magnetic drain plug; cheap insurance and a diagnostic tool all in one.

Do you have a recommendation for a magnetic plug?Thanks!

http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html]http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html[/url]

Next change, add a magnetic drain plug; cheap insurance and a diagnostic tool all in one.

There are a multitude of potential ferrous sources in these engines, but I would pull the sum cover and also check the cam deviation values as well.

I checked the cam deviation values. Both are steady at 0 degrees.

With that being the situation, most likely it is not the IMS bearing. To find the source, you are going to need to do some digging. Have you pulled the sump cover off yet?

I just changed the oil today and I was going to drive a few hundred miles, then pull the filter and inspect again.

There are a multitude of potential ferrous sources in these engines, but I would pull the sum cover and also check the cam deviation values as well.

I checked the cam deviation values. Both are steady at 0 degrees.

This is the first time I examined my oil filter and found 3 small pieces of metallic shavings in my filter. If I had to guess, I would say they are about .003 in. thick X 1/32 in.

Can this be the IMS bearing? Should I be concerned?

My car is MY2003 with 23K. I am the orginal owner.

Thanks!

The wing might be drawing more hot air past the sensor and local sheet metal thereby raising the temp in heat soak?

Just a thought...I don't even know where the sensor is located.

Paul

Sensor is located on top right bank .

My cab top has rattled since the day I purchased new from the dealer. Install a sports exhaust or turn up your sounds!

Not really - in most cases where the fan is running too often it is because the sensor is lying on the hot engine instead of being suspended in it's holder.

Could be a bad sensor. I am not sure of the resistance of a good sensor - perhaps you can borrow one to test and compare.

I checked the sensor, and it is mounted securely. I wonder if the harness could cause this problem? I wouldn't think so b/c the power to the fan is supplied by a relay through the harness to the + and - terminals on the fan. The fan turns on and off.

I think I have a measurement problem, as the temp sensor could be providing the wrong resistance to the ecu. I am not sure what else it could be.

Thanks!

The aerokit wing uses a different wiring harness - did you use the one for the aerokit?

Loren,

Yes, I used the harness that came with the aero wing. The wing was from a MY 2001 with a factory installed aero kit. My car is a MY 2003. My understanding is that the fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F.

It appears that the ecu is activating the fan based up on the above criteria. Is there anything else besides the temp sensor that would give the ecu incorrect data?

Do you have any ideas how to troubleshoot this issue?

Thanks!

Are you sure it's not the secondary injection pump you are hearing? My sec inj pump turns on for 10 seconds or so sometimes when in stop and go traffic.

No, it's definitely engine purge fan, as I can see the fan blades turning.

I have noticed that the engine blower fan started to turn on right after I added an aero wing. It will come on on a cold day after the engine is warm, and will cycle, especially at lower speed driving.

The engine temperature is normal, and there are no warning lights. I checked the sensor to make sure it was seated correctly.

If there anything else I should check before replacing the temp sensor?

Thanks!

What is a reasonable price to pay for a used air box?

I paid $1500 for the PSE from Brandywine Porsche in 2004, and did the full electronincs install myself...took a couple of days. The current price is outrageous!

I drive my 03 like I stole it. :-)

Just got my first oil analysis report. Oil is Motul x-cess 5w-40, had ~5,000 miles on it and car has almost 50k miles. TBN=6.7 (TBN=10.9 for virgin oil)

Both iron and copper seem to be quite higher. Magnesium is ~10 times higher than normal! Never any engine work. Oil and oil filter changed every 5k-7k miles/every yr, whichever comes first.

Should I be concerned? What engine parts contain copper?

E90745-edited2.pdf

TIA

Maybe engine bearings?