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mffarrell

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Posts posted by mffarrell

  1. Hi everyone - I've got an intermittent problem with my PCM2 Bose system in my C4S. Sometimes the system will work fine (like when I bought the car and ran it for 2 weeks!) and then other times I'll get no audio when switching on and an error on the screen that there is a problem with the changer, amplifer, and telephone module. When in the fault condition the radio visually is fine (station name, volume control) but pressing the tel button returns a "no telephone module" error. I've tried a few bits:

    * drivers's seat out (UK car) and checked the telephone module MOST connection.

    * head unit out and checked connection

    * amp out and checked connection

    No real improvement from that lot (although 30 minutes later the radio was working ... and then died again :(). I'm hoping that someone can hand out some basics for how MOST works so that I can diagnose the fault. I don't have PIWIS but if there's a genuine way of furthering the debug I'll pick a cable up.

    * Red light - when should it be in the cable? When I checked the MOST connections to the telephone module I didn't see any red light in the optical connector. When I removed the amp I did see the light. I don't recall exactly if I'd turned on the ignition before starting the telephone work (but its likely I guess), I'm pretty sure I did after the telephone and before the amp cable check. Does the red optical light come on only when the head unit is active, or is there a timeout that it stays on for after the head unit is off, or maybe its on all of the time (unlikely!).

    * What can I do with the PIWIS software? Frankly I've no interest in the telephone module and I've read that its quite high up the list of MOST functions that the radio checks on power up (no way to back this up though). Is it possible to disable and enable the separate MOST bus functions to fault check which item is causing the problem?

    I'd be really grateful for any advice!

    Does the red optical light come on only when the head unit is active, or is there a timeout that it stays on for after the head unit is off, or maybe its on all of the time (unlikely!).

    I noticed on my car the FO is lit all the time. Looks like you may need to take a look with a PST2 or PIWIS.

  2. Hello everyone, the other day I was trying to swap voltage regulator on the back of alternator and noticed that wires coming from the alternator were covered in oil.

    It seems to come from resonance tube or whatever the big rubber connector to intake distirbutor is called (between intake and throttle). Hose clamps were positioned so that their bolts were on the bottom so oil sweats and drops from there. Not much (certainly not leaking) but wanted to check if it could be a sign of oncoming problem.

    thanks in advance

    2003 996 c4s

    Mine is similar. Oil sweats but no drops. My AOS was replaced by dealer a few yrs ago when my car ('03) was still under factory warranty because I complained about high oil consumption (1 quart per 1400 miles) and I didn't know it was not uncommon for these engines to consume that much at the time.

    However, the oil sweat returned not long after AOS replacement and my car is still consuming oil at the same rate. How much oil does your engine consume? I'm speculating that my oil consumption is because of oily air from the AOS get sucked into the throttle body and the new AOS unit the dealer put in was also defective.

    My 2003 uses a quart every 5000 miles.

  3. I added a factory Aerokit spoiler and side skirts to my MY2003 cab. a few months ago. I purchased the side skirts from Sunset Porsche for $680 and the spoiler for $950.

    I painted the parts myself using PP&G for about $200 in materials. Total cost was about $1850.

    + 1 for PP&G paints and clear coats.

    Funny, I had to learn to paint all over again. In CA., it's almost impossible to purchase solvent based paints. So, I learned how to paint water based paint, using PP&G Enviobase waterborne paint, then clearcoat with PP&G Omni MC770 2.1 VOC High Gloss Urethane Clear.

    The learning curve wasn't too bad. The gloss/sheen is unreal.

  4. Hi all, well I may be the biggest idiot or just a lack of brain cells from not enough meat/tofu in my diet.

    I decided last Sat being a wet and gloomy day to do my oil and filter change.

    I did the usual, drained tank, removed oil filter housing and oil filter.

    After half hour on the drip and replaced oil plug with new oiled washer, fitted new oiled o ring up to the end of the housing to the lip, oiled filter, fitted filter and housing and job done.

    Started car and have to say my sporty grunty motor now sounded like my girlfriend,<asleep> no noise.

    Ok I guess I cant complain.

    I went to a wedding about 40 miles away tonight and when arriving back home noticed my rear I mean right up to my spoiler covered in oil.

    Like a kid in a lolley shop I stood there at 130am and starred and starred with thoughts in my head racing to come to a conclusion.

    Well after noticing oil spots on the drive in I concluded I had a leak :)

    I looked under and you guessed it dripping oil from the base of the filter housing.

    Why I asked why what did I do what.

    END:- Please give me your thoughts.

    Is it as simple as the problem (clue above) that I should not have pushed the o ring right up to the end of the filter

    housing and that I should have put it in the groove about 5ml before the end lip? Would that cause a leak in the

    housing?

    Thank you.

    The oil ring for the filter goes into the groove on the oil filter housing, not to the end of the filter

    housing. Just remove the filter housing and reseat the oil ring into the groove.

  5. Thank you Maurice for the very detailed instructions. VERY helpful.

    I must say that I am a little surprised/skeptical/doubtful that THE WHOLE SIDE (BOTH WHEELS) of the car will lift off the ground enough to place a jackstand at the front simply by jacking at the rear jack point. Is the car that stiff?

    I hope my jack can do this.

    Jacking at the rear point will lift the whole side of the car, enough to lift thr front wheel off the ground.

  6. My '99 996 Tiptronic 32K miles got side swiped last week. Damage is limited just to the drivers door, but will need to be replaced as dents are too severe for repair. Exterior was perfect on the car. Body shop wants to order new door panel, paint and 'blend' paint into front and rear fenders as they say it is impossible to match the color exactly.

    My thought was to try to source a used door from a dismantler. My paint code (under the hood) is L92U - Arctic Silver. The code from under the carpet by left light assembly reads:

    92U 8 Q

    Arctic Silver

    X1

    Questions is, aside from the L92U are any of the other numbers & letters related to the paint color and what is the possibility of another used door in arctic silver actually matching my paint? as the car is 12 years old I'm sure the new clearcoat will have a much more shine to it than the rest of the car...

    Look forward to thooughts/suggestions.

    Here you go...$350 shipped!!

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Boxster-996-Carrera-911-C2-C4-Driver-Left-Side-Door-Shell-Silver-OEM-/190579885866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5f72472a

  7. Hi All,

    Does anybody know of a good source for looking up part numbers? I would also like to know if anybody has seen any place that shows compatibility of instrument clusters and other parts.

    Thanks,

    -Chuck

    I use the Porsche PET for P/Ns.

    Sorry. I'm not familiar with the PET. What or where is this?

    Thanks,

    -Chuck

    Porsche Genuine Parts Catalogue

    http://www.renntech....porsche-models/

  8. Hi Everyone,

    Just put my hardtop on ready for the winter. The first time its been on since I had the car.

    Put the front in first and carefully dropped the back, lining up the pins with holes. Used the allen key and turned until it clicked once.

    Looked wierd as there was a gap of around an inch all the way round, but its on tight. Is this right??

    The problem I now have is that the front windows go up and down fine. The drivers side rear window seems to get jammed and eventually comes up after a few presses. Once it starts going up its fine.

    Does anyone know about this problem and what I can do please??

    This might help you out.

    scan.pdf

  9. Thanks for your comments mffarrell. Cost is not as much of a concern (covered by insurance) as having one side of the car look different than the other as I have heard arctic silver is tough to match. I have not heard how much the factory paint differs from car to car though. I have purchased parts from DC Auto in the past and found them helpful.

    A quality shop will be able to perfectly match the rest of the car. I have painted many Porsches, and it pretty straight forward to match the paint. Just find a reputable shop.

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