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Posts posted by Nehmaiz
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I have attached 2 bulletins, 1 is for the old style mounts and the other one is for the new style mount
Usually the balance being out of time is really felt at about 3200 rpm
Thanks Macguda,
Checking Mounts diagram in the first attachment is very interesting!
if it's not the mounts and not the balance belt timing, what else could it be??
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@Wvicary:
the balance belt is not broken, that's for sure... believe that it's not timed well with the timing belt and that's what's causing the vibration i guess...?
regarding the mounts, they did not appear deformed and are in tact... what else should i look for?
@Magcuda
how do you determine of the mounting has collapsed?
if you raise the revs a bit the vibration goes away.
a little more info about the vibration: when you start the car in P it's there but the car doesn't shudder heavily... if you turn on the AC the shuddering increases, and when you put reverse gear the shuddering is at the maximum.... My GF jokes and says it's better than a vibrator!!
Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.
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Thanks Guys,
i can say most of the work needed on the 944 is probably finalized, only issue is that the vibration is still there.
i've checked engine mounts and transmission mount when engine and gearbox were pulled down, they are perfectly fine. as suggested believe the next possible culprit is the balance shaft belt... however, the garage is quoting me 6 hours of labor just to open up the the balance shaft and check if it needs repair...
is that true, do they really need 6 hours to get to the balance shaft?!? is there a way i can do it myself and check it's condition? i don't want to end up paying 500$ just for checking if the balance belt is ok!!
Cheers
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1- If it's a single cam engine then it's the 2.7 L, the 3.0 L has a twin cam engine which is very wide when compared to the single cam.
2- The balance shaft belt can break which cause excessive vibrations as does collapsed engine mounts.
3- Inspect the heat shields around the exhaust system.
it's a single cam engine, so as per your answer it should be a 2.7L, but how do i know it's not a 2.5L as the vin decoder says?
i will check all of the above, many Thanks for your input!
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Today i became the proud owner of 2 porsches, my second one being a 1989 944 automatic 3 speed tranny.
Some known issues about the car:
original Engine caught fire, another engine was sourced from a same year model. both Japanese origin cars.
current chassis number is WPOZZZ94ZKN401651, when i use Scouser's Vin Decoder it shows the car had the 3.0L DME Engine.
The donor car's Chassis number is WPOZZZ94ZKN404260 which shows that the engine was a 2.5L DME Engine... i thought 89 models did not get 2.5L engines!?!
Now the previous owner of the car says he's sure it's a 2.7L engine... i tried to check the engine number but could only find the crank case number 944.105.250.7R
89 model 944 cars should have the engine number on the rear right hand side of the engine, but i couldn't find any other code.
2) the car vibrates a lot when idle and when in reverse gear... i read about rough idles on 944s, but this one shudders bad, not sure if it's normal.
3) when on the highway cruising, there's a rattling coming from under the shifter area, sounds like it's coming from the tranny..
i expected the car to have some issues, i'm just hoping it's nothing major like a full transmission change.
any feedback on the above would help.
Thanks
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what amp did you use? kenwood cannot work on the fiber optic amp of the car.
what abt the rear sensors, they must've stoped beeping?
can you post pictures of your car dash?
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Ok now first gear slips out of gear into neutral by itself...i have keep my hand on the gear lever at times when i stick it into 1st!!
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I just had an FVD brombacher Short Shifter installed on my '03 C4S, 99,000 KM.
when i slot the shifter into 1st, 3rd or 5th, i get this metal clunking sound that's coming from under the stick.
that sound doesn't happen when i slot the shifter downwards into 2nd, 4th or 6th gear.
is this normal for a short shifter? the guy at the workshop said it's supposed to sound more mechanical but i'm not too sure about that...
anyone faced something like this before?
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we Share the same taste in Cars - Black on Black, what a beauty...
it appears we also share the same taste in women too :notworthy:
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i personally let the car warm up at standstill till everything is properly warmed up, even though i live where temperatures soar above 45 degrees Celcius.
Apparently on 996 cars driving your car when it's not fully warmed up was a major factor in the RMS failures.
check out this link
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... I tried the Daren Fister mod and loved the sound but didn't like the small loss in low end power ...
Could you elaborate on the small loss in low end power with the Fister exhaust? How did it manifest itself? I don't have Variocam issues, but am considering the Fister exhaust for my '99 996.
The Fister mod produces great sound, especially above 2800 rpm. However, I did notice a slight loss in power when letting out the clutch. You needed to pay a little more attention and give it a little more gas. Also, my 2004 has Variocam Plus and when the intake valves switch from small to large lift you could really feel the surge much more than with the stock mufflers. I went back to the stock mufflers and could easily notice the difference. From what I read, some back pressure is a good thing and helps low end power. Although I loved the sound made with the Fister mod I was willing to give that up for easier starts and minimal surging.
I also tried 997S headers with stock mufflers and had similar observations. I ended up going back to the stock headers.
Currently I am running mufflers that are completely gutted, everything inside removed. The mod was done by Hergesheimer. They produce a Ferrari-ish type sound and surprisingly are just a little louder than stock. It sings at 3,500rpms.
I was Seriously considering the Fister mod... now i'm having second thoughts... but in all honesty my stock exhaust doesn't fulfill the sounds i need from my car!
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from the picture i can see that the Servo is located next to the shock mounting. in my opinion that's where the noise might be coming from (or something in the suspension system)... try to see if it has any leeway/moves a bit when pushed by a screw driver...
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Tac,
The Owner's Manual is full of information that Porsche feels important. This is from Page 66, MY03 Carrera Owner's manual.
">Do not let the engine idle to warm up.
> When starting the engine, be ready to drive
immediately.
Drive vehicle at moderate speeds and avoid
engine speeds above 4,200 rpm during the
first 5 minutes."
Replacemdent manuals can be purchaced through your dealer for about $30.00, if you don't have one.
Bill
i personally do it the old fashioned way, after reading so much about RMS failure it seems one of the main causes of RMS Failure is driving the car when it's not properly warmed up.... when the car is warmed up, the metal expands and takes it's proper place...
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Mufflers will do the job...
check out various brands like Fabspeed, supersprint, cargraphic on youtube...
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Porsche Service center Dubai advised me that front stabilizer links and Shock mountings should be replaced in two. meaning if one has gone bad / worn it's recomended to change the second.
just wanted to check with you guys and see if that's just utter BS...
03 C4S coupe
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Congrats!
i think you've made a great decision in buying a 996. you'll definitely feel it's worth every penny every day you drive it.
i certainly do after two years of driving my baby...:drive:
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That is the typical RMS and IMS seal oil leak spot, an oil leak on top of the engine is also a possibility given the oil drips on the floor are pretty clean and the car was serviced recently. I would check it properly to make sure.
Thanks RFM, that sounds like a good idea because i haven't really checked if the leak is happening from the top somewhere.
any specific areas or hint as to where to look?
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I guess I just wanted to know if it indeed is the head gasket, should I be driving the car until it gets worse or should I address it RIGHT NOW to avoid a head gasket failure and engine failure.
If I did not ask in the correct way or did something else wrong in my post (lots of views but no replies, maybe I missed a rule or something), please let me know and I will correct it.
Thank you, Hugh
Hi there,
Did you manage to find out what the problem was? i seem to have the same problem on my 03 C4S.
i recently took my car to the Prosche Workshop for a Major Maintenance, they fixed some stuff along which was the Cardan Shaft as the bushings were totally worn out and they needed to be changed.
i went away on business for 10 days after i took delivery of the car, and when i came back i saw that the car has leaked 3 small droplets into my garage floor. the droplets were golden in color so i knew it's engine oil... i lifted the car up and can see that there are traces of a seep from where the engine is couple to the transmission, pictured below. assume it's the same place as where hugh has specified.
i'm taking it back to Porsche to see what caused this leak, as the car was perfect before i did the major service.
Any input is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Nehme
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Gents, Turned out to be the stabilizer mounting link on the front RHS... Part code i believe is 99634379214
thanks for the help!
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tie rod would be my guess. Had a similar strangish clunk/squeek type of noise that got worse with heat.
+1
I have the same issue right now.
Thanks guys, will check the tie rod !
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this is a bit difficult to describe, but whenever i go over a road bump, or when the road is a bit uneven i hear this not so very loud click / clunk noise coming from the front right suspension area. previously i could only hear this noise after i wash the car from the underside, and it used to go away the next day, now it's there all the time.
the noise does not sound like the usual suspension thud which makes me think it has something to do with the steering column or control arms.
moreover, when i go over a gravel road the clicking turns into a rattling sound, all coming from the right front wheel area.
any ideas?
thanks for the help guys.
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i have the X51 eisenmann tips on my exhaust system but not sure if my mufflers are eisenmann too, any way of identifying them? for some reason the bracket keeps on breaking almost every 4 months and i have to send the car in for rewelding because of the slight "thud" sound it makes... anyone experienced this problem before?
was thinking that changing the mufflers is the solution...
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The dramatic title pretty much describes it.
I'm in the market for a new daily driver/enjoyment car, and after about 6 months of research I've decided on either a 964 C2 or a 996 C2.
Everyday I constantly switch back from both cars, thats why I want to hear some of your opinions. The 996 would obviously be the better DD but I'm not sure I would enjoy it as much as the 964, and air cooled flat six is orgasmic.
Unfortunately I have only been able to test drive the 996 and that was when I was about 9 years old, I have though been fortunate enough to be a passenger in a 964 and it was pretty amazing. Anyone ever driven a 964 and a 996 and what was your thoughts on each?
(**** every time I make a thread I have a 3 page essay in my head but it comes out trimmed, any extra info I'm forgetting I'll add it in as I go.)
For day to day driving i would definitely recommend the 996, if you were planning on driving the car on weekends or everyonce in a while i would go for the 964...
the ideal situation would be to have both parked in the garage :cheers:
Insulation Foam out of A/C Vents!
in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Posted · Edited by Nehmaiz
03 C4S with 103,000 KM.
Hi Everyone, was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem before...
it's really starting to get hot around here (46 degrees Celcius) and about a month ago i started seeing small foam/sponge parts coming out of the A/C, and yesterday when i took the car to the track, the sponge particles were getting bigger and bigger getting out of the vents...
i can only assume these are insulation sponges that are deteriorating, do i need to replace them? i assume would be a costly and time consuming job... anyone had something like this before?
Thanks,
Nehme