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  1. You are lucky to get 90K+ miles without a waterpump replacement - mine went at 62K. My mechanic commented that 60K was typical life of the original pump on a 99 C2 and also said the pump has been re-designed with stronger bearings. It's your call - mine went quite quickly on the way to work - lots of steam at the stoplight. I was lucky enough to drive the car straight to the shop without damaging anything. You wouldn't want to be caught out on the highway when it goes... Good luck.
  2. Same engine in the 2001 as my 1999 except for e-gas. IMHO, Whoever posted that on Wikipedia is smoking crack. ;)
  3. Glad to hear the "quick fix" service at the local service station seemed to resolve your lack of cold A/C. You mention in your note the system took 1.95 oz. of refridgerant. Didn't it really take 1.95 lbs?? I am about to recharge my system in MY 2002 and will use the pressure valve to determine appropriate additional R134-A t add to fully charge and the 1.95oz number implies one can ( or less) will fill system??. Demosan Demosan - I think tshegos meant 1.95 LBS as he said they evacuated the systen before replacing freon. (The system holds 2lbs and the system will not cool when you get below 1.75 lbs.) What I want to know is did the A/C guy find the leak(s).
  4. Find a reputable independant A/C specialist in your area and have the system diagnosed. My guy charges $59 for the complete analysis, including dye to find leaks. They performed the diagnosis and topped off the system while I waited - 30-40 minutes. This will keep you out of the Rover and get you to the wedding on time... ;) You should have cold air for a few weeks and can address the source of the leaks or other issues after the honeymoon. Good luck.
  5. Good luck with the recharge - have them inspect for leaks under black light with dye. I had the same problem - recharge lasted a year. The second time it lasted a month. The dealer and an independant shop never found the leak so the dealer replaced the Evaporator/fan assembly two years ago. Cold air ever since. Cost was $2300 US.
  6. I think the leaking "gasket" may be secondary to the main problem - item #7 in Loren's drawing is probably stopped up below the junction of the A/C condensation drain. Have you checked the passenger side drain under the hood for blockage? If not, remove the plastic covers over the battery and each side. Peek into the pasender side drain pan located to the front and right of the pollen filter and and look for a 1" rubber grommeted hole. Is it clear of leaves, etc.? If not, pull out all the debris and pour a pint of water into the area and see if it pours out freely under the front passenger side of the car. If the water doesn't drain freely then you probably have one or more obstuctions inside the drain tube. I cleared mine by blowing the clogs out with compresed air. The backed up water acted as a plunger and shot a pile of crud to the ground. After that, the interior stopped smelling like wet dog and I've been trouble free since. FWIW - I check both dash drain holes every six months as they tend to accumulate seed pods in the Spring and leaves every Fall. Good luck and let us know what you find.
  7. :offtopic: I stoppped by the BMW dealer today to return the big bow borrowed to surprise the wife. I took a seat in the new Z4 Coupe - much smaller than an M5! The local paper's auto writer called it the "Cayman killer" at $20K less and 255 HP. I can't believe I can buy a brand new 2007 Z4 for the same price I paid for my 99 C2 three years ago. Humm....
  8. I see that but I am trying to see about 3.4's specifically. I am at 75k, and have an odd quick dry tap for the initial burst of start up, and a once and a while knock that is independent, subtle but definately a lower end knock(after 5=days of no start). I don't want to let his car go and well putting $10k into a replacement 3.4 and considering a SC, all falls into the range of a TT or better engine. Besides that I have to keep the faith "knock on wood" that 911's are the gritiest, dirtiest, meanest reliable bang for the buck sports cars on the planet that still looks good dressed up. Oh and I have a little RMS sweat but I do not lose any oil either. 99 C2 - 65K miles and still running strong. RMS/clutch replaced at 40K - all the other leaks fixed at that time. Had to replace the water pump at 64.5K Love the car but getting nervous about long term reliability especially with all the recent posts about engine failures. The resale value is still in the sweet spot so I'm real tempted to get out of it while the getting is good and move back to BMW (just bough the wife a 2008 328i - NICE car). No flames please. :rolleyes:
  9. Also check your emergency brake release button. I performed most of the Dash TSBs but still had a rattle that I swore was coming from the dash. It turned out to be the e-brake release button rattling around inside the handle. Its easy to check - just put your finger on the button when you hear the rattle. If it goes away, you found the culprit. I stuck a small piece of the "fuzzy" side of velcro to the button and the rattle went away. Good luck!
  10. Turns out the hoses were just fine - no need to replace. The some of the plastic vanes in the water pump were broken off - pictures to follow. Here's the bill: Labor - R&R waterpump, Therm housing 6hrs @ $93 = $558 Part - 996 106 011 54 Water Pump 1 @ $270 Part - 996 106 121 53 Thermostat Housing 1 @ $37 Part - 000 043 301 05 Coolant/Antifreeze 1 @ $45 Parts $352.36 Labor $558.00 Hazmat $2.00 Supplies $12.00 Tax $63.73 Total $988.09 Sounds like you got a real deal at $500
  11. any sign before it gave up? load noise when engine was cold, etc? Zip, nada, nothing... No sign of a problem until yesterday. I heard a strange sound coming out of the back of the car like marbles rolling around in a tin can as I left my part of town yesterday. 10 miles down and off the highway the excitmenet started. I pulled over to make sure it was steam and not a fire back there. Water temp was normal - only small leakage, so I decided to make the last two miles to work. It was sounding pretty bad this morning as I topped it off and limped it into the shop 2 miles from the office. Coolant was leaking out the water pump pretty well at the shop when I left it. On a positive note, I saved $600 doing the 60K service myself a few months ago so the unexpected expense is somewhat offset.
  12. 1999 911 C2 The water pump took a dump on my way to work yesterday. Scary experience as cars were honking at the sight of steam billowed from the rear deck at every light. Luck for me I got to work without overheating. I searched the site and only found a few posts regarding repair procedure and cost. Thank you Loren for a previous post explaining that the engine needs to be hoisted while the engine mount is removed to access the pump. That info sent me to the yellow pages instead of the tool box. Bottom line - $988 from an indie to replace the water pump, thermostat, housing, new gasket, hoses and coolant flush. He quoted six hours labor at $93/hr. What concerns me is the frequency this indie says he's replacing water pumps. He says 911s and Boxers are routinely coming in for water pumps with 50-65K miles on them. Anyone else had to replace their water pump yet? FWIW - I love the response from another local indie advertising their expreience with P-cars, and I quote... "The water pump is $290 and I'll have to get back to you with the labor quote as I've never replaced one..." Needless to say he never called back - thank god! . <_<
  13. I can only speak for myself/local Porsche dealer so here goes. My CPO P-car had new brakes/tires all around and the carpet was removed and cleaned (still smelled like wet dog after all the Orange air freshener wore off - that's another story...) before I took delivery. The 100 point inspection was a joke as the fuel filler door latch was MISSING when they went over the car with me on delivery day and the cruise control didn't work on the way home. I asked if the car had experienced the dreaded RMS - was told no problem - good to go. Let's just say that after two years, a half dozen trips to the dealer and 10 weeks without the car to address $8-10K in warranty issues, get a FULL inspection by an indy and bring the documentation to your dealer. They are obligated to fix the problems the indy finds. My local Porsche dealer never questioned a repair once I brought it to their attention. Too bad 80% of what was fixed over the past two years was on the car when I bought it! Good luck.
  14. I replaced my coolant tank last August and reused the old cap assuming it was the new version. I had to add a little coolant every couple of months until I realized the old cap, orignial 1999, was leaking. I haven't had any coolant loss in six months since replacing the cap with the latest version.
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