Rob001

Reading about engine ticks, knocks and ratles and hoping this not happen to me it is now my turn to listen to the jingle bells..

I got a MY99 C2 manual. When cold (overnight) starting the engine, I hear a tick/ rattle after a few seconds which then will last for approx. 1 minute if I keep it idle. It seems to be irraguar as well.

When reving slightly up during this minute the tick is gone too. When engine is warm or after 2-3 minutes no tick at all. Starting after a few hours no tick either so it is only when totally cooled down.

Oil is recently changed (5W40) Engine is not using oil or is smoking. Water and oil level is ok and no intermix signs.

I recorded the tick from a cold start on the file attached and it seems to come from the underside of the engine.

What could it be? Valve tappets, chain tentioner, chains, piston slap or something totally different?

I know it is hard to judge from a recorded file but I do not want to tear the whole engine apart looking for it. So any suggestions are welcome here.

Memo.mp3

Rob

I orderd a fabspeed muffler for my 996 C2 '98. The left side fitted perfect but the rifgtside muffler seems to be misaligned fabricated.

The big oval part of the muffler itself is touching the rear bumper and the oval exhaust tip is prortuding to much. I used the original brackets and these are ok.

During installation I noticed that were the muffler is connected to the cat with the sleeve I had about 40mm clearance and I needed to pull the muffler in place.

This also gave a bit more clearance were the muffler is touching the bumper.

Is this a known issue, wrong batch fabricated/ rig setup?

Rob

You're assumtion of my idle problem is correct. It is more a bad vibration, RPM is not bouncing noticably at all.

However passenger seat is shaking a bit without A/C on (750RPM) With A/C on it is on the RPM is at 800.

Reading your link it seems to be normal. Anyways I do suspect engine mounts, will try to replace those first.

Thanks, Rob

MY99, 996 six speed.

With A/C switched off engine is a bit rough idle and noticable at inside.

With A/C switched on perfect idle (and slightly higher as without A/C)

No error codes shown on Durametric.

I cleaned the ICV and throttle body but no improvement. Any ideas befor buying a new ICV?

I had the same problem which I temporary solved by running a small wire between the hi speed and low speed relais of radiator cooling fan which was not working.

See below link from ppbb to determine if it is the fan of balast resistor and how to run the wire to get the fan running on hi speed only.

www.ppbb.com/phorum/read.php?6,1509504,1509681

Rob

All thanks for clarification on this. Reason for thinking 91 times overreved was based on info from the Durametric website quote:

"Notice the section for "Ignitions (Range 2)." This vehicle shows "1/48h" which means the vehicle exceeded the red line one time during 48 hours of operation. This is an example of a possible car a Porsche dealer will not perform warranty work on as this metric indicates abuse"

Got myself a Durametric tool to play with and on the ignitions range 2 tap it showed 91 / 3140h Total operating hours are 3312h.

Reading about this it means that the car is seriously overreved 91 times :eek: but I can not recall doing so probaly by previous owner.

Car (MY99 C2 six speed) runs great, no oil usage, water or temerature problems but is this something to worry about or could it be false readings due to something unknown?

Rob

Installation instructions are on the B&M website in pdf

http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/67.pdf;jsessionid=0a0103571f43812750c8c3e3427a9e59a6cdda3930c3.e3eScheKb3qRe34Pa38Ta38Lb3r0

Afer some searching it can be ordered at Carnewal.com

The complete vaccum unit with ball joint as shown circled in red will cost about 100 Euro, still cheaper as a new PSE.

Alternator for a 6 speed (M480) seems to have a pulley with a free wheel lock and a tip (M249) without according to PET.

Pending on which alternator pulley type there are two versions of the belt tensioner roller (not the idle rollers) as shown in my first post.

So what if you have a 6 speed without free wheel lock and what is the difference between the two tension roller partnumbers available in PET?

I need the one with the white arrow which is the tensioner roller.

Note that my altenator does not have a freewheel pulley as far as I can see.

See below picture of alternator wihout cap so this is the confusing part in ordering the correct pulley.

As I,m on regular base overseas as well I do the following:

-All tires to 4 bar (58 psi)

-Full tank of gasoline

-Remove the - pole of battery (make sure you got the radio code card(s))

-Prior removing the battery - pole, lower driver side window approx. 1/2 " as it will not goes down when opening the door without power.

Note that my hood release is mechanical but as of MY200? this is electrical and will not work when not powered so you may not want close the hood to access battery! You can also put a trickle charger on the battery so then you do not need to remove the - pole. However (my thinking) having a trickle charger for 4 months unguarded on battery doesn't feel right.

That's it!

Thanks Loren, so far the German Pünktlichkeit in Pet 7

Got a bad belt tensioner roller (can wiggle) on my 98 C2 6speed.

Acoording to PET partnumber is 996 102 117 54 which is replaced by 996 102 117 56 but is for a model M 249 (tip)

Partnumber 996 102 117 00 is for M 480 model which is a 6 speed. Om my alternator I have no free wheel so which roller to order and what is the difference between the two?

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Must be a bad download. For me it worked just fine. Suggest to try again and use "safe as" instead of open the link

This may open an another discussion.

Checked out the Agency power site and found the shift link as shown on the picture on the right side.

So you say that this will definately improve the sloppy feeling?

As my stock shifter on my MY99 C2 is feeling sloppy after 90,000 km I would like to give it a new feeling by changing to an 997 shifter bracket. Reading about the oem 997 shifter bracket (997.424.010.00) and the oem 997 short shifter bracket (997.424.983.00) which has both positive reviews over the stock 996 shifter I can not decide. Apart from the sloppy feeling I do not have any issues with the tranny. This is my daily car and I'm not going to trackdays (yet) So... I know it is personal but which to take?

Hahaha I thought so, glad it works as I could not yet try myself as I'm somewhere in Siberia for the moment.

Rob

Try this.... I bet you gonna try this the first thing you wake up!

Porsche AC Diagnostics

(undocumented, unsupported feature)

The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996....

To switch from F to C:

Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons.

To access diagnostics:

Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit.

I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB!

Here is a list of what can be seen:

0c - ERL

1c - Oil Temp?

2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash.

3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit.

4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp.

5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display)

6c - Coolant temp.

7c - Footwell discharge temp.

8c - Sun sensor (dash top)

9c - Sun sensor.

10c - Passenger compartment fan speed.

11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage.

12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT

13c - Temperature mix Flap position

14c - Central Flap command

15c - Central Flap position

16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command

17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position

18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC

19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback)

20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer)

21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second.

22c - ?

23c - ?

24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum.

25c - ?

26c - ?

27c - ?

28c - Fan speed?

29c - ?

30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff)

31c - Timing counter

32c - Displays test

33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4

34c - ?

35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?)

36c - temp?

Interior sensor at side vent.

It has a little motor with fan which can make noise .

Seems it is stuck as well then i guess. Do you see any movement of the flap at bottom?

The bolt is an 6mm (metric) size but be aware it is a real PITA to reach from bottom and once the motor is out it is even worse to get it back!

To get some better acces remove the rightside bulkhead (under carpet) side vent airback and air ducting.

See attachment from the workshop manual on how to remove this. Goodluck and let me know the outcome!

The way I found out was that when pressing the recirculation buttom on heating panel I heard "clicking" noises from under the right footwell.

Checking the little electric motor when pressing the recirculation buttom learned that it was not moving or only partial. Seems that the motor is weak or the flaps connected to the motor are having a lot of resistance to move or both...

As you can see on attachment the motor has two (2) linkage arms. One goes to a flap visible at right footwell at the bottom (open is air recirculation) and the other one is a flap just below your cabin particle filter underneath the hood.

What I did to solve my problem temporary is manualy forced the motor and flaps to fresh air position (flap under footwell CLOSED) and disconnected the electrical cable to the valve.

No more fogging windows

Located at the right side foot well and very difficult to reach!

When pressing the recirculation button on electronic panel I hear some noise but motor and valve is not moving.

I tried to remove (succeeded partial) and motor is working. The valve i/s the air ducting is moving manually as well so it is not stuck

I guess it is installed wrong, reversed action or so. When on fresh air should the valve be open (air blowing through) of closed?

Any tips in proper installation and easy access to it? Got bleeding fingers and wrists by now :help:

Written in manual it should be removed with the recirculation button pressed but I do not get it working...

Got in my 996 C2 MY99 a PCM1 system which I will replace ASAP with a good 2din system from Pioneer or so.

In my car I do not have a stalk to dispay the OBC on instrument panel. This is now only to be controlled on the PCM1 unit and shown on PCM display. Used the search and found the OBC hack with switch or adding a 4 stalk, no problem with that. Question now if the OBC hack will also work PCM1 equipped cars without the oroginal 4 stalk?

I was thinking doing the same. Anyone to provide part numbers to rule out any unforseen missing parts when converting?