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Rob001
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997.1 just tap into the yellow/ blue wire, no diode needed. When cut, fan goes to full speed both sides so when connected to sensor the "cut" will then at 85 C
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What I had done is drilling a hole in the right radiator, tapped thread into it and added a Mercedes temperaure sensor (85 C /185 F ) and spliced it into the fan whirring. All is working as normal except when the coolants get 85 degrees at radiator, => L +R fan full speed.
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I had the same intermittent ABS/PSM problem. Checked for error code and got 4205, front left speed sensor. Turned out to be a broken wire in harness from speed sensor to ABS module. This is a commom problem in lead at grommet which is pressed into the front shock. Could not be your problem but check for error code first as above advised.
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My 2002 996 Turbo ABS is acting strange lately. At very low speeds, almost at standstill ( below 10km/h) on dry road I feel the ABS being activated in the brake pedal. Hooked up my PIWIS and got no faults in ABS module. Any ideas?
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Electronic Clicking Like a Loud Hard Drive
Rob001 replied to rmoudry's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Mayby one of the HVAC servos stuck causing the internal gear making these noises? -
Get K16/24 hybrid or K16 billet with a good tune. These are turbos are spooling up very fast!
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Got a 2002 996TT (pre-most) with PCM1 and Bose sound system incl. rear subwoofer of which I would like to replace the head unit only and keeping the Bose amp and speaker setup. Probably covered a dozen times but reading mixed views on this especially 2 Ohm speakers and on output to the rear subwoofer which has his own amp so what exactly to be done? Can someone help me with wiring diagram for 2002 pre-most with Bose and rear subwoofer as I can not find out from were the rear sub wiring is routed from.
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Trip to dealer? Maybe they still have an old service CD? RAR is just annother ZIP like format. Search for winrar and install, click the first file RAR and then the 2 RAR files will be extracted.
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There is not much to understand. Just download the two RAR files I've sent you in the PM, unrar and then burn the image (.ccd file) to a CD with clone CD. Or give me a FTP server addres for me to upload the image file to burn for you including clone CD or maybe Richard can send you an image file copy of his Porsche CD...... Thinking about it when removing navigation CD unit to check the part number, disconnect your battery, remove CD unit, remove all electical connectors from CD unit only (is only one white multicable plug and the GPS antanna), power up and see what your radio is doing now and pray it will start up normally. Just a thought.
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That's corerct but the idea is to get past the "insert CD screen". Since he is not using navigation anyways he got nothing to loose. So I would try Opel Siemens 2010-2011 for NCDx system which is also working porsche Porsche PCM1 16 bit as it is same system and run it.
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As a follow up the stutter mysteriously cured by itself... kind off.. I suspect is was bad gas as the car was not used for a while as I'm often working overseas. I know that the ECU is flashed (unknown tune to me by previous owner) and I think the stutter was related to too much timing and the knock retard due to bad fuel. As a preventive measurement I changed the diverter valves (710N) and pre cat wide band O2 sensors. Next will be a new UMW tune based on a proper data log Kevin is selling.
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For Europe you have newer PCM1 16 bit 2010/2011 Navteq CDs which is for Porsche and Opel siemens systems. One of these CDs is the system update. Hope I'm not breaking any rules here http://bit.ly/12bF1sm ,the top hit. (you got a pm as well) Good luck!
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Looks like your bootloader is corrupted and it it is asking for navigation (upgrade) cd. You still got all the CDs? One of them should be the navigation software CD.
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I know but with a lot of patience and the right equipment such as a Bosch KTS with a Porsche cable and IBM laptop I managed to get PIWIS V29 up and running... Re my stutter, booked for service today at specialist
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Yes I'm using a generic Porsche factory PIWIS tester, no Durametric or simular. Narrowed down the symptom and it seems that only under boost pressure the stutter occurs and the boost pressure stays then low at 0.3 to 0.4 bar. As the stutter is not constant, when no stutter boost pressure goes up to 0.9 to 1 bar. Stuck or poor operating diverter valve issue?
