gwoodburn

I know that this is a very old post, but I think I am having the same problem with my amp. I started noticing a similar 'POP' after I installed a rear speaker kit in my 2003 Boxster S. It seems to only come from the rear passenger side speakers and it is not influenced by volume, bass, CD or Radio; it just pops at random times and fairly loud too. Did you ever figure out a solution? I have suspected the amp and I know that the part number on my amp does end in -00 like your original.

I will double check the wiring with the battery. Good idea. How exactly do you check the fade button? I know how to fade to the front and back, but other than that how do you really check it otherwise. No ignition problems. Although I did have my battery checked and it is at about 560 CCA, which i know is low. I plan on getting a new battery soon. I really didn't think it could be a cause because i figured either the amp is working or its not.

- brown one above the gas pedal (or where ever you may have put it) where you make the connection between the lead from the amp to the speaker lead? You can check for amp output there - if none on the front side then amp most likely problem or wires somehow got cut. - white (unless Harvey changed plug colors) plug under the clamshell where the rear enclosure connects w/ the lead on the passenger side? I thought of that and the wires are definitely not cut. I jumped the terminals for pins 3 and 12 on the amp harness with a paper clip and took a miltimeter to the white plug under the clamshell where the rear enclosure connects and checked for continuity where they connect to the male plug on the rear enclosure. I did the same for the terminals on pins 4 and 13. Complete continuity from the amp harness all the way back. I just cant believe that an amp could loose those channels completely without having an affect on the other channels. I guess its possible, just sounds stupid. What a POS amp. One day I might upgrade to a complete aftermarket system. I wanted to keep the stock look for now.

I have a 2003 Boxster S. I recently, just after Christmas, installed the PNP rear speaker kit that I ordered from Harvey on ebay. The install went well with no issues and the kit was working until last week when I noticed there was no sound coming from the rear. The front and door speakers work just as they always have, just no sound coming from the rear speakers. I checked all of the rear speakers and they are not defective. I also checked all continuity on the wires in the rear enclosure and running from the front amp and everything checks out ok. I have been in touch with Harvey about the issue and he has been fantastic about resolving the issue, but we still haven't come up with a solution. Everything right now points to a bad amp, but it is hard for me to imagine that only the rear channel outputs, both left and right, on the amp have gone out. Has anyone had any similar problems?

So Vertex screwed up my order and sent me a superseded flywheel. I have a 2003 Boxster S and the part number that is on their site and every other site is 986 114 012 06. The part that they sent me is 986 114 012 04. Is there really any difference between the two parts? Hard to imagine they would change the number without making some kind of change to the part. Really makes me mad that I spent a premium price for a part that has been superseded. Especially since there is a guy on ebay selling the older part number for $454. If I had known, I would have got it from him http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-04-3-2L-BOXSTER-S-PORSCHE-LUK-NEW-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b204ebaeQQitemZ140425620398QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I have been looking into upgrading to a set of cat-bypass pipes for my 2003 Boxster S and was wondering if anyone had an opinion one way or the other on whether to go with Fabspeed or NHP. I have notices a few differences that I like/dislike about each: I know that many people have had good things to say about the Fabspeed pipes so I expect they would be a great choice, but in every picture I have seen it does not look like the pipe bends are exactly the same as factory. Will this cause any problems with the exhaust being to close to other components (i.e. CV joints)? Is there an advantage to them being slightly different than stock (better flow)? And they also do not appear to have any sort of heat shield to protect other components if it does comes too close. Is an exhaust wrap recommended? I like the heat shields on the NHP's, and they look to follow the exact pipe bends of the factory pipes, but from the pictures I have seen look to have the O2 sensor holes which I dont need for an '03. Not sure if its just a generic pic they put up for all model years, but I wouldn't want to have to plug something I don't need. Also if I do have to plug them, is there any issue with it causing more turbulance in exhaust flow? Also I haven't actually read as much about anyone using these. Are they a good fit and quality? Other than these differences that I have noticed from pictures, they both look like good choices. Both are stainless, mandrel bent, come with hardware, about the same price, and appear to be the same 50mm diameter (i think). I would assume that they sound and perform the same, but again i could be wrong. Any opinions? If anyone else knows anything about these I should know before making a decision or has a recommendation for a different brand, please let me know

Haha, i still dont understand how she could have done so much damage from less than 20'. I guess she hit the gas instead of brake. I'll see if she wants to fly to Texas to hook you up. Although another accident may give the poor old lady a heart attack; she was so frantic and upset that she hit my porsche. It has just been too much trouble finding the correct Aerokit II (GT3) bumper for this car in my area. After all is said and done it would end up being much more than I wanted to spend on something that only looks slightly different from stock. I dropped the car off at the dealer today during my lunch break to start on the repairs. I'll give an update next week (hopefully) on the outcome. One good thing that happened with all this is that the dealer is actually letting me purchase the replacement headlight seperately. i just ordered one from germanautoparts.com for about half what they were going to charge, so now i have about $400 towards other mods! I was thinking about a B&M short shifter or Fabspeed Bypass-Pipes. Anyone have any other ideas what I spend this on (keeping in mind that I dont want to go much over the $400)? The car is pretty much completely stock.

Thanks Loren, great writeup So is the only option for 986 S owners in the US part# 996.505.980.02.G2X? Also, I thought that I read that additional brackets and mounting hardware were needed to put an Aerokit II bumper on a 986 S (Thats what the dealership said as well.) Sorry if I'm being a PITA, just trying to make sure I dont run into any issues with extra parts or the possibility of them telling me it doesnt fit and then I'm out over a grand.

Thanks for the quick reply, I was hoping you would chime in Loren. I know you have extensive knowledge on the subject. So do both 996.505.980.02.G2X (US version) and 996.505.980.03.G2X (RoW version) have the cutout for the 3rd radiator? I know that 996.505.980.02.G2X is available at germanautoparts.com for a great price so I was leaning towards that one, but I wasnt sure if it would be the best fit option compared to the other part numbers I have found. Seems like it is now based on the fact .00 and .01 arent available anymore. Also, do you know any other parts; i.e. brackets mounting, hardware, (#'s too) I would need? Thanks

So I know this has probably been explained before and for that I do apologize, but I haven't been able to find a clear answer to exactly what the difference between these bumpers are: 986.505.980.00 986.505.980.01 996.505.980.02 996.505.980.03 I have a 2003 Boxster S that my neighbor backed into the front of yesterday and I wanted to get a GT3 MK1 (aka Aerokit II?) replacement. I know some of these are for a Boxster and some are for a Boxster S with the cutout for the 3rd radiator, but do they all fit the same? Will the shop run into any issues if they use the 996 version? I know there are a few additional parts (brackets and mounting kits) that are needed, but what are the part numbers for those? Any explaination and pictures will be great. Thanks Here is a nice image of the damage

You may want to try a local tool rental place or maybe check with Advance Auto or Auto Zone. They have free rental of a lot of special use tools. B) I actually have an Advance Auto less than a mile from my house, but I checked what they had last night and I wasnt confident it would work to get the bearing out. All they seemed to have was a clutch bearing puller and a wheel hub puller (which i guess i could use to get the hub off). I have used their rental tools before on my old trailblazer with pretty good success. It is a great program they have going for essentially "borrowing" tools no one in a position similar to mine really wants to buy. I will just get them both and see what I can do this weekend. If they dont work, I will just pull the wheel carrier and take it to my local mechanic to get the bearing out. Thanks!

I recently purchased a 2003 Porsche Boxster S with 64k on it and I have to replace a rear wheel bearing. I know the best tool for the job is the SIRB90-P2 Hub/Bearing Extractor and Installer Kit, but i do not want to pay $300 after shipping to own a tool i will (hopefully) only use once. Is there anyone in the Baltimore area (Reisterstown specifically) that can let me borrow/rent it for a few hours to get this job done? I have been searching everywhere and my only option seems to be that I have to buy it outright. I would love to be able to avoid this if i can. My only other option is to pull out the whole wheel carrier and take it to my local porsche mechanic and have him extract it and install a new one and I would really like to avoid this as well b/c it adds extra work on my end that could be avoided if i had the right tool. And my mechanic is reluctant to letting me or anyone borrow his bearing extractor/installer; which i cant blame him for. On another note, this site is great. It has saved me soo much time and money so far. If not for this site, I probably would still be trying to pull the axles out that I had to rebuild a few weeks ago!