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Papagut

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Everything posted by Papagut

  1. Okay, I thought other owners may be willing to trade, share, or sell - but definitely don't want to be banned, I find this forum invaluable. Sorry for the trouble. Mark
  2. Hi there, I am looking for anyone with somewhat recent map disks for my Cayenne. I have a PCM 2.0 system with version 3.0 software, and do not have a CD for my area: Alberta, Canada. I recently moved out West and have only CD's for "east" and "map 1A: northeast & north central US and Canada". If anyone is willing to sell them or would consider a trade for my disks, please let me know. I am in the Calgary area. Let me know if you can help - thanks. Mark
  3. Hi everyone, I just moved from Ontario to Alberta and my navigation system has stopped working - it requires a map disk. The ones I currently have are for eastern Canada. I have been looking through the forums for the correct disk, and am a little confused... My car is a 04 Cayenne Turbo, but when I hit Trip/Nav it indicated that the PCM and software version are 3.0. From what I have read about PCM 3.0 - I don't believe that I have that system in the car, the maps look quite different. Am I identifying this correctly? 3.0 PCM 3.0 System Software 6636 Device Type The car came with two CDs: both indicate "compatible only with PCM Software Version 3.0 or higher" one is named East, the other Map 1A: Northeast and North Central US & Canada - dated 08.2003 and 08.2004 respectively. So, what I would like to know is which map disk, or set of disks am I looking for, are there any software updates needed, and help in identifying the actual PCM unit as I may look to trade or purchase the disks secondhand. Thanks, Mark
  4. Thanks, for the assistance. Let me make sure I understand you clearly: the technician that performed the scan attempted to clear the code, after which he said that it just came back up instantly - but you are indicating to reset the ecu. Are those the same things, or should I be asking them specifically to "reset the control unit", then to "clear the code" via the PIWIS tester? Just making sure I am clear. Thanks, Mark
  5. I wish I would have know that, rookie mistake I suppose. In your opinion, given the scan details, do you feel that removing the seat and turning on the ignition would have caused a hard code to be registered in the control unit - something that could be cleared by a reset - or that the control unit itself is permanently damaged or defective? The difference is significant: $100 versus $1300. Regards, Mark
  6. I thought that may be the case, but wanted to make sure it was not all my dis-connecting and re-connecting that had caused the issue. I can also remember disconnecting the unit itself at some point. I will go back and check it to see if I bent any pins or if the plugs are not seated properly. If I recall, it is under the center console - just behind the shifter. If that changes anything, let me know. Otherwise I will post back any developments. Thanks,Mark
  7. The shop attempted the reset when they did the scan for me. They used a Durametric setup to do the scan, so my first question would be is that different than the PIWIS tester, or will the PIWIS tester have a different result when attempting to reset the fault? Furthermore, there is no specific code on the printout the shop gave me, it gives me a part number, a controller ID, then under Current Fault Codes it says 3: then gives the description I provided above. The only possible clue to the specific fault code that I can see is at the bottom of the page, where there is a web address of the report - at the end it says:...\955-Airbag_FaultCode.html. Perhaps 955 is the error code? Let me know if that helps. Mark
  8. Good morning, I have a dashboard airbag warning light on in my 04 Cayenne Turbo, and have been to a local shop to have it reset. Apparently the fault is persistent - as soon as it is cleared it reappears. I suspected perhaps the seatbelt, which seems a fairly common source of this warning, but the fault reads: Control module faulty - upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light. I now suspect the problem began when I was working on an unrelated electrical problem. At that time the battery was disconnected, multiple harnesses and fuses were removed, and at least at one point, one seat was fully removed - definitely while the key was in the ignition, possibly even while the car was running. I understand that this may have caused the fault, but need help resolving it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Mark
  9. Thanks for the tip, I took a quick look and think that removing the dust cap may be the issue that is stopping me at this point - I will give it a try this afternoon. I thought that the housing was a single fused part. Mark
  10. Hi there, I was replacing my wheel bearings, and at some point, stressed the axle just enough that a bearing popped out of the inner (engine side) CV joint inside the boot. Now, after cleaning it out and adding new grease and a new boot, I cannot reassemble the joint. I place the ball bearings in the proper position, but cannot re-insert the axle and race no matter what configuration I try. Is this a procedure that requires a special tool, or excessive force, or is there something I am missing? Thanks in advance for your help. Mark
  11. Thanks, another good suggestion, I always thought that it was very costly, but I see now that you can get started for under $300. I told my wife what I want for my next birthday. As for the compressor, it is solved. Here is what I did: I exposed the relay in question and saw that it did trip when the car was started. Then I tested the circuit itself, and it had no power. That is when I remembered that there are a few additional fuses under the seat beside the battery. And that is it - the 40 amp fuse under the seat was blown. Replaced it and the compressor charges the system immediately and I am back to normal. So Loren, I suppose I should have been more thorough when checking fuses at the beginning. Anyhow, I am very pleased to have it solved, and as always, greatly appreciate the excellent suggestions and support of the community. Thanks, Mark
  12. No, good suggestion. Under the dash drivers side I assume - can you identify the relay that runs the power for the compressor for me? Or is there an resource that I can use to identify it for myself? Mark
  13. Thanks for that excellent tip - I had no idea VW offered a repair kit. That could definitely come in handy. So, originally, I had a problem with the system charging, and traced it to an air line t-junction that had came loose under the rear seats. Once that was fixed, and over time, I thought that the compressor was beginning to sound more loud and laboured. A shop where I do some service mentioned that he had seen an older compressor that had accumulated a surprising amount dirt and water, so I took it out and disassembled it inspect it and clean the components - it was clearly dirty and had a fair amount of residue buildup. I replaced all the seals and lubricated it, and it worked beautifully - nice and quiet. However, upon reinstalling it in the car, it will not engage. My first check was the fuses, and I ended up checking them all as I know some systems can influence others (including under the hood). All are fine. As a double check I bench tested it again, and it works perfectly. So, that is what led me to believe that perhaps a fault code was registered since I started the car while the compressor was not present that had disabled the system. Let me know what you think, or if you have any more questions. Mark
  14. Hi, I have been having some problems with the air compressor for the ride height adjustment in my 05 Cayenne Turbo, so I removed it, disassembled it, cleaned it up (it was filthy and corroded inside), then reassembled it and put it back in the car. I bench tested the compressor and it worked like a charm, so I know it is working well now. However, after reinstalling it, it refuses to charge the system. I did run the car while it was removed, so I am assuming that it believes it is not present and has disabled the system entirely. Is there a way to clear or reset the error system so that it is reenabled (without visiting a shop to clear the error codes)? Thanks, Mark
  15. Thanks for the reply, Turns out my battery was defective, but upon replacing it I still had electrical problems. After much work, I found that it was due to a short in the harness that runs under the carpet on the drivers side. I replaced it with the same item as listed above, which exceeded the minimums for my car, and is still working fine. Mark
  16. Solved! I started with the fuse box on the right dash, as I mentioned, the bottom two rows of fuses were getting no power. I disassembled the dash and fuse box and identified the power lined feeding these rows, there were three power lines. Following them back into the thick harness that runs from the fuse box then under the carpet passenger side, I found that all three are actually spliced together to form a single power line within the wrapped harness. Following this single power line, it ran back up and into the upper dash, along to the driver side of the car, down and under the carpet to a relay (the only one) mounted right beside the battery. At that point I tested the power and ground going into the relay, and also disassembled the relay itself and tested it. Power and ground were fine, but the relay was not tripping and providing power to the systems upon ignition. So next step was to test the power used to engage the solenoid and complete the connection. Power was fine, ground was not. I followed this small ground back up the harness and at a position roughly where your left foot rests, there was a series of spliced connections for a number of wires (again, within the wrapped harness). That was exactly where I located that this wire was spliced, and had corroded and came apart. I cleaned the wired, soldered and wrapped, and all systems are perfect. In the same location, there were a number of spliced connections, I inspected all of them and found another getting close to failure, so it was repaired in the same way. Then I resealed everything, and have no problems. To hopefully assist anyone with a similar electrical issue, pictures are attached: battery shows where the relay is that powers the systems (top right, relay removed, purple), harness shows the stripped wiring under the carpet, broken shows the connection as I found it. Ultimately, I believe it was moisture and salt that corroded the connection, although it looked poorly done in the first place. Thanks to everyone for your help, and please e-mail me if you have any questions of comments. Mark
  17. Thanks, I inspected the connection to the PSM control unit, which was right where you described. In the end I found the solution to my electrical problems, which I have detailed and documented as part of another post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30560 Thanks for your help with this one. Mark
  18. To confirm: passenger side? I thought that the only major electrical junction under the cowl was driver side. Finally, "remove the DME" - I do not know what you mean, but I assume you are referring to the fuse box that is at that location (that the PSM unit is beneath that). Thanks, Mark
  19. Hi there, I am having some technical issues with my Cayenne, and I suspect that the computer is either not supplying power to a control unit, or that there is a break, loose connection, or short somewhere for the power running to the control unit in question. To troubleshoot this, I want to check and see if the control unit in question is getting power at all. I am after the module that controls the following: - brake proportioning - air suspension - PSM Hopefully they are all in one location, although I would suspect that if the first two were unavailable, the PSM function would go off by default too. If you can tell me the location, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Mark
  20. wvicary - checked with dealer, and it is up to date, that is, all issues on this car have been serviced. deikoo - I think you are heading in a different direction, but the brake lights work fine. Can either of you tell me the physical location of that control unit so I can check the connection and the power flowing to it? I feel I am going to find a damaged pin, frayed or damaged wire, or a short of some kind that is causing this problem. Mark
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