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Everything posted by Papagut

  1. Just like it sounds - seems like my transfer case is locked up. I suspected the actuator, so I replaced it. The LED on the selector indicates reduced mode when I start up, if I put it into neutral and on the brake and attempt to turn reduced mode off, it will flash like it is attempting the change, then I get a 4WD error on the dash and the selector becomes inactive. Like it is attempting the switch, but fails. No sounds that I can detect from the actuator from within the car. When I was replacing the actuator, the there is a divot in the sprocket that did not line up, so I connected it and turned the ignition on to advance it into the correct orientation to install. That worked, making me think that the actuator is fine and it is some kind of mechanical lockup inside the transfer case. Changed the fluid, didn't look terrible, appropriate volume came out. Nothing warned me this might happen like any grinding, bumping or other funny business. Codes that seem relevant are: 2050 for mechanical switching error, 2039 potentiometer short circuit, 2033 potentiometer 2 short. There are others: DME control module 1314, and on occasion I am getting intermittent PSM failure light on the dash as well. Next suspicion for me is the module, or potentially corrosion in the wires coming to and from the module under the footwell passengers side carpet - I have seen this in the past for causing other random issues in this vehicle. New battery in it from just a few months ago. Anyone here seen anything similar or have any suggestions? Thanks - Mark
  2. I'm going to chime in with my solution here just in case someone experiences a similar issue: I started with replacing coils and plugs in the cylinders that were misfiring as I wanted to rule that out. Simple solution really - almost all of the codes cleared up, starts and runs much more smoothly. I was not aware that warming up has an effect on coils/plugs - so I suppose I learned something there. Good luck if you run into the same issue. Mark
  3. Good morning, here is my challenge with my 2004 high mileage Cayenne Turbo: on initial startup, I get a very rough idle that will settle after a minute or two, after the typical start-up cycle, although it will remain a bit rough afterward as well. I ran my codes and came back with these: P0199 - engine oil sensor (more on that in a moment) P0021 - cam position timing over advanced or system performance B2 P0431 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2 Plus misfires on 1, 3, 4 P0446 - evaporative emission vent control implausible signal I cleared these and ran again for a while, P0021, P0431, and P0199 came back more or less right away. I have had a rough idle in the past, so I checked the various vent lines again + the air oil separator gasket - all look sound, and all have been replaced somewhat recently as well. However, because the codes are all coming from one bank, my thinking is more toward the cam on bank 2 now: maybe the camshaft position sensor is at fault or variable timing solenoid is a bit gummed up. I checked the angles and found bank 2 has a deviation of 3 degrees, not sure if that is significant enough to come into play. Raising the RPM and watching the angles in real time seemed to show the cams responding and adjusting evenly and in step with one another. Also not certain if the O2 sensors on that side are feeding poor information, but not getting any codes indicating that. Finally, the oil sensor is definitely gone, I have a new one ready to install on my next oil service, which is coming up pretty shortly. This behavior predates the sensor failure, but has been getting worse lately. Plugs are fairly new, coils I checked as well when I did the plugs. The general feeling of vibration I get from the warm engine I am chalking up to aging engine mounts, which have never been replaced to my knowledge. Any insight you might have to share on what may be the source of my codes would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark
  4. Great news! In my cayenne, I found wiring in both sides that was corroded, but only those wires that you were holding were corroded completely and causing my major problems. Nothing found in the back for me, and no moisture traveled that far, just drivers and passengers side front. Perhaps some of the other errors you are seeing are persistent and you just need the faults to be cleared? You may just need to drive it around a bit. I'll pass along one more related tip that has helped me out quite a bit for my electrical issues: under the carpet in front of the drivers side seat is where the battery grounds to the frame. If you are getting some moisture in the footwell carpeting, I would inspect that too for any corrosion and clean it up for a nice connection. I put some conductive grease on mine. I do that once a year or so where I am because we have wet snowy winters and use salt on the roads and that main connection is right about where your wet feet go. Glad to hear you have it mostly sorted out. Good luck, Mark
  5. In my opinion you have absolutely found the source of your troubles. The symptoms were the same, and your picture may as well have been one I took myself. There were no wires in my harness that were left with an intentional dead ends, and I can even remember that particular wire being in a similar state. Mine had corroded away entirely just like the wires you are holding. I remember both times the wires terminated in a larger connection in my car, but mine is a 2004, so potentially different. Were these two lines the only two inside some tape that you have cleared away? If they were clearly the only two inside the tape - then most definitely, clean them up and reconnect them. I would be willing to bet that your systems will all come back up. If you found them just like the image, naked and loose inside the bundle of wires, then I would be careful to search for their original near connection points. It is a little harder to see in your image, but behind your finger looks like a connection for a number of larger wires wrapped in electrical tape? I would inspect that too while you are in there. Another thing: right behind your thumb on the left on the thinner of the two wires looks like more corrosion maybe? Watch out for that, you may reconnect everything perfectly but there may be more corrosion further up the line just waiting to cause more trouble. When I was doing mine I just felt the flexibility of the wire for any signs. So, 100% I think you have the problem right there inbetween your fingers, just be careful that you reconnect them back the way they were originally, then afterward get the wheel wells off and clean out the drain points that tend to clog up and cause water to get into that area. Write me back if you want more info on that and good luck! Mark
  6. I have a development to share: after nearly 10 years, this same set of symptoms suddenly returned for me: brake proportioning, PSM, ABS, speedometer - all offline + can't put it into gear. I went straight to the same place that caused me trouble all that time ago: drivers side, under the carpet, right about where the footrest is, and exposed the wiring harness. Of all the reconnections and cleaning up that it did - there it was: one small power line had become corroded and broke loose. Cleaned and reconnected, all systems immediately back up. I'm not saying that there are not other causes for this trouble, but only posting this in the hopes that I can help another member out. Here is a post-repair picture, the red lines you see looping back upward in the centre of the image - those were my culprit. The thinnest of them had come loose. Hope that this may help someone out.
  7. Just in case anyone comes across this thread trying to solve unstable idle issues, bigbuzuki was on the right track. I replaced the vapor canister purge valve, pretty easy and inexpensive, and the crankcase breather check valve, even easier. the purge valve may have been a contributor, but the check valve was the main culprit. What is interesting here is that all of my ventilation hoses were intact and without leaks, but if you peered inside the removed check valve, you could clearly see that the membranes inside had completely disintegrated. That immediately did the trick.
  8. I am thinking this is definitely a likely cause too. I replaced the ones running over the top of the engine a while back, they are all nice and intact, replaced the air-oil separator gasket, that has a nice seal now too, but the line that runs downward on the drivers side front of the engine - that is where I will look next. I think I will start a new topic specific to my idle issues with the codes that I am getting.
  9. Thanks for that information, I'll check that off my list of possible causes for my unstable idle issues.
  10. I just removed and cleaned my throttle body as a step in trying to get a nice stable idle, and I noticed that at rest, the plate is slightly open. Here are a few pictures to illustrate it - is that a normal state? After cleaning it, and it was moderately soiled, I also attempted to reset the adaptations via Durametric. Following the instructions, it says that once completed, the final value will read 14 - mine started at 11, and after following the process - ended right back at 11. Not sure if that is related so I thought it best to note that too. No other significant errors present. Thanks, Mark
  11. So, in the end I never got to try this solution... There was a HUGE storm in Calgary, flooding everywhere, and I was caught in it. I had to drive through mabye 24" of water at one point. It was something else! Anyhow, I park it for the evening, and when I go to fire it up the next morning - problem solved! Something obviously happened on that trip that caused it to reset in some way - but as soon as the back end dropped, it returned to level and is functioning normally. So, if you find yourself in the situation I did, I would definitely try bleeding off some air like wrinkledpants and paqueras are suggesting before replacing the module or valve body, which are pretty expensive. Or of course, just drive into the nearest lake - that clearly seems to work! Thanks, Mark
  12. Strangely, I was wondering about giving that a try - I have the cover off at the compressor and will give it a shot and post back
  13. Hi, I have an interesting issue: my front wheels will adjust ride height, but my rear wheels will not - they are stuck in the highest position. When I start it up, I can hear the system attempt to raise the back end further, but since it is at it's maximum, this causes a system error eventually that locks out any manual adjustment. I suspect that this started when I did an extended job on this car and the right rear had a slow leak in the system someplace, and eventually dropped down to a very low position. What I thought I would find is that the height sensor on that corner may have broken - but no, all looks fine (sensors at all corners look fine). When first start the car, the height adjustment is active momentarily, and if I adjust it, the front wheels will respond - the rear wheels will not. My first instinct was to calibrate with Durametric, but that requires the suspension to be in the normal position, and I cannot get there with my back end stuck way up in the air. It is as if air can enter the rear end but cannot escape, or that the vehicle believes that the rear end is in a lower position than it is in reality. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Thanks, Mark
  14. Hi everyone, I have a slow oil leak happening at the far front drivers side of my 2004 Cayenne Turbo. I have it down to a fairly small area, but am not sure about the likely source as the whole area is a bit fouled up. Would you let me know what you think would be a likely source? I lose about 1 litre over maybe 6-9 months. First image is from inside the left wheel well looking forward, second and third images are from underneath the same location from different angles. Thanks, Mark
  15. Thanks, I am sure it is a break in the signal someplace, and there are plenty of modules under the passenger seat along with another in the cubby, which doesn't look like a typical amp to me - but I am going to have a good search for that connector. When I pulled the head unit, I had a good look at the connector. The thing is, I cannot seem to locate that same connector or set of lines anywhere else. Well, not immediately apparent anyhow. Would you expect it to be bundled within a wiring harness along with standard wiring? I'll post back with what I find.
  16. I'm back at work on this error - still unresolved. I did remove the head unit, checked all the connections, and paid special attention to the MOST connector - all seated nicely. I would now like to check that same connector at the navigation unit and amplifier, but am not certain of their location. I have had a fair amount of this car apart and have seen all kinds of modules, but none so far with that MOST connector. Can anyone shed some light on the specific locations - if I can get even a general or typical location, I will be able to ID the proper cable and check the connection. I do not have the CD changer in this vehicle, but do have a subwoofer in the back where the spare would be - and there must be an amp in there someplace to drive it. Thanks, Mark
  17. It's been a while, but I have an update on the squeek / hiss I was getting as the brake pedal is released. I did check the vacuum line and booster pump, that does seem relatively common for causing some issues. I had thought that perhaps a split and weak vacuum was causing what I was hearing in the cabin - but no, everything was in good shape. So, I removed the panel in the cabin where the pedals are and with the engine running - and it took a while to locate - I identified the culprit as the rubber boot that surrounds the rod that the brake pedal depresses. To elaborate: the boot is fixed to the end of the rod that is closest to the pedal, and when you push it in, it collapses the boot like an accordion - as it should. However, when I released the pedal, the other end of the boot pulled away from the back wall also, and as it did, a hiss and squeek would be produced. It is hard to access, but if I worked my hand to the back of the boot and just squeezing or moving it a little would produce the same hiss. It didn't make sense for the boot to move at that back end, so I pushed the base backward. I believe that the back end of the boot had come loose, and sliding it backward remounted it - although it probably only moved back maybe 5mm. Once done, when depressing the pedal, the back of the boot is now stationary, and it collapses / expands as it should - more importantly, it instantly eliminated the squeek and hiss. I'm not certain how long this fix will last, or if the boot coming free is a sign of something else (my brake booster pump was getting fairly hot - weak vacuum, but not enough to trigger fault?), but for now, the problem I originally posted is resolved. Picture of the boot attached - hope this helps if you are experiencing anything similar. Mark
  18. Thanks for the image. I am quite certain it is seated properly into the rear of the head unit, but am going to double check. I will post back with the results as I move along. There has been a lot of electrical work on this truck - but it has been me that has been doing it. I think a break in the loop is a very good possibility, I definitely feel it is behaving as if modules are not present. I understand what you are saying about the "loop" - but this cable must enter and exit modules in other locations in the vehicle. I am thinking as a first step to check the terminal connections at each module in the loop. Where do you find the various components in the system typically?
  19. Good suggestions. I am pretty sure I have tried a rest, but I will give it a go again and post back the results just to be thorough. As for MOST / optic cable: where is the MOST module located - perhaps I can check the terminal ends of the optic cable first, then try just running an optic cable of my own through the cabin to rule a cable fault out.
  20. Hi there, I am experiencing some trouble with my head unit, here are the details: basic info: - moved from Ontario to Alberta, nav was functional in ON, did not have map disk for AB, so did not bother trying to use till recently when I purchased the proper disk. - nav is PCM 2.0 software 3.0, all other functions are normal symptoms: - after startup, get strange error: Unknown, unknown... image is attached - info < shows no satellites detected - date incorrect - nav slow to startup - when map starts, compass says north, points downward in display rather than upward as it usually does, does not rotate map as vehicle changes position - current position in long / lat. is fixed and incorrect - somewhere in the middle of the ocean - map will eventually come up, but vehicle position is fixed and never changes - previously, when selecting AV, you would get a "not present" message, now you get a blank screen attempted fix: - removed head unit, checked all connections, particularly GPS - removed spoiler, checked and replaced GPS antenna (fairly corroded), checked ground connection - took to dealer to run diagnostics, they read error codes of 8005, 8006, and 8007, and provided me with a complete diagnostic printout, so I should hopefully be able to provide additional details if needed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark
  21. It was a bit of a cascade of errors - I am not sure if it was one problem that was causing a chain of events, but the worst was a disk proportioning error, along with ABS failure, shifting problems, and full PSM failure. The car would start, but the shifter would lock in park. In the end I had to remove the panel and manually disengage the lock to put it into gear and move it. A single fine wire with a corroded connection on the passenger side was causing all of this. But I have it feeling it could have been related to wheel sensors or something - a critical part of the system that caused everything else to fail. As soon as I cleaned it up and reconnected it, everything pretty much went back to normal. Good luck - hope that helps out a bit.
  22. That's really what got me - you have that thick harness running down both sides of the cabin, right where you are describing it, from behind the dash to under the seat close to the door. The whole thing is wrapped in a black fabric tape, and inside that is a thin clear plastic layer. The connectors I am talking about are actually inside the harness. There are a fair number of wires that are split and fused to one another inside the bundle itself. I was amazed when I found them - and relieved, and it was really frustrating me trying to get to the bottom of my problems. The connections are in different points inside the bundle, and typically are just pinch welded together and inside a rubber sheath. It is immediately apparent if they are corroded - you can see green around the connection or the wires feel stiff or brittle, or they may be falling right apart. One more thing, I found that moisture had seeped up into the wires themselves through the connections, corroding the wire up inside the insulation itself. I ended up replacing at least 6" in each direction if it looked sketchy. For me it was one small corroded connection that was causing the car to lock the shifter completely out, but there is also, on the left side, a really large connection of I think three + ground wires that was in need of cleaning up in my truck too that I suspect was causing a bunch more problems. I repaired three or four connections in each side in the end, some worse than others, but all definitely in poor condition. Hope that helps.
  23. Hi there, I am about to flush out my brake fluid for the first time. I have a fairly good handle on the procedure, but have a few questions. 1) order: I understand it to be rear right, left rear, front right, front left - outside caliper of each first. 2) amount of fluid to draw out: my main question. When drawing the fluid, I have read a few posts saying it was sometimes difficult to tell when the new fluid was all the way through the system. I have a graded resevoir, so I was hoping someone would be able to give me an approximation of the amount of old fluid that will come from each caliper to ensure that the fresh fluid is all the way through. Please indicate how much from each wheel and then each caliper if you can - for example: right rear, pull 200 ml from outside, 25 ml from inside, second wheel... I have a liter of the fresh fluid. 3) any other locations to flush: I am planning to draw fluid from each wheel, but nowhere else. 4) pumping the brake: I am planning to draw the fluid through the system using a handheld pump at around 20 PSI refilling the resevoir after each caliper. I am doing the job by myself, so was not planning to pump the brake. Am I making a mistake and leaving a pool of old fluid in the system someplace? I think that's it - I know its going to be pretty basic stuff for a lot of you, but this is new to me, and I want to do it right the first time. Thanks a lot.
  24. Me too, I have a wanted listing up for a while now hoping for a Durametric cable. If I don't get one fairly soon, I will run down to my local shop and get a scan done and post the results. To support your idea, if you select AV, when in the past it gave a message saying something like "not present", I am now presented with a blank screen. I will post whatever I find out - any other ideas, let me know.
  25. Update: pulled the unit out and checked the connection to the GPS antenna, then opened the spoiler, replaced the GPS antenna and checked the connection there too. Still no luck. Navigation takes a long time to start, no satellites are being detected, and will not calculate routes (as it cannot identify it's current location). Any tips or ideas would be useful.
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