bigbadjohn

Can anyone explain how to pull my steering column?  I need to pull the steering lock (ELV?) to send to the cpu doctor to test my modules.  I pulled the bolt closest to the steering wheel and the little arm brace.  I cant figure out how to et the forward end out.  Any advice?

TIA,

John

Dave,

 

I have a cassette radio that I'd be glad to let you have.  I lost the code, but you can get that here.  If you'll email your address to me, I'll get it out soon.  a986dude@gmail.com

 

John

My 2002 Boxster S keeps blowing the fuse in the rear of the radio. When I replace it the radio works. After turning the radio back on it blows the fuse. I want to replace the radio with a newer model of radio but those also have fuses in the back of them. My car has the Bose system with door speakers. I don't want to replace the radio if the problem with just blow fuses on the new unit. I have searched many threads but not have come across this problem (Fuse on back of radio repeatedly blowing. Any insight to this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!!!

Does anyone have the instructions for making the light in the FWL switch come on when the spoiler is up? I installed the switch to operate the OBD. I see links to "Sandy's Spoiler Indicator Light", but the link is dead.

TIA,

John

I'd like to move the DSP from the bottom slot to the next one up, and put a tray that I already have in that spot. Can this be done and what do I need to do it?

Thanks,

John

Yes this can be done. You'll need to take trim piece around the DSP module off, and put that on the tray. And take the one from the tray and put that on the DSP module. You may need to cut a couple of the plastic wire wraps around the harness to extend the length, but it should reach.

Nope, that won't work. The trays don't have a trim piece. The upper section of the lower console is shorter than the lower section, so the DSP unit won't fit, or, at least I couldn't make it fit. I ended up stuffing the controller behind the console, leaving the CD holder in the upper section, and the storage bin in the lower section.

I'd like to move the DSP from the bottom slot to the next one up, and put a tray that I already have in that spot. Can this be done and what do I need to do it?

Thanks,

John

I want to use some plastic weld to fix a couple of screw holes. Want to make sure I get the right stuff.

Thanks,

John

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the responses.

John

A porsche dealer told me that they don't share repair records between dealers. Can anyone confirm/deny this? I always thought that all work done by dealers was saved in a central database.

TIA,

John

The Boxster was wrecked into a ditch and cracked the bumper cover in half, among a lot of other things. No injuries. I'm interested in changing the front bumper to a different style, nothing turbo like, just a different look, and something that wouldn't cost anymore than an original replacement. If any of you would care to post pics and/or links to vendors, I'd appreciate. Trying to swap up without additional costs.

Thanks,

John

My 2.5 is due for a clutch and I do not trust the dual-mess flywheel. Did you put in the Autozone Luk flywheel? Where did you buy the clutch? Autozone has crazy prices for a clutch kit.

Yes, I used the Autozone Luk Flywheel. As far as I can tell it is a genuine Luk Flywheel. What do you mean when you say "I do not trust the dual mass flywheel"? Is it that you think yours is worn, or that you're afraid they'll come apart? I think in the long run, I would be better off with a light weight one, but I just couldn't justify another couple hundred $$. I bought the sachs clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, release bearing) off of ebay from gripforce-clutches for $281 including shipping. It was the best deal I could find. It came with a small packet of grease for the center of the clutch disk. Anything else I can answer, let me know...

Long story short, clutch release arm broke. After disassembly found clutch plate worn just to the rivets. Flywheel may be bad also. I'm trying to make sure I get what I need to do the job right.

Questions:

1. Flywheel has about 5 teeth of free play, twisting it like an oreo. It does not spring back, I can move it and it stays. Does that prove that its bad?

2. Do new Luk Dual Mass flywheels come with a pilot bearing installed?

3. As for the clutch lever parts. From what I can tell they have all been updated. Can anyone confirm that the parts below will fit in my 99 Boxster? Are all of them needed to change to the new lever? Is anything else needed? The part numbers did come from a dealer, but I just need some piece of mind that the parts are correct.

996-116-716-02 Ball Pin

996-116-741-00 Clutch Clamp

996-116-743-00 CLUTCH SEALIN

997-116-712-01 RELEASE LEVER

4. If the parts are correct, is the clutch clamp any different than the one that was on the original lever?

The good news is that my RMS and intermediate shaft aren't leaking.

Thanks a bunch for any help. Any other advice is welcome.

John

Thought I would post the answers. Hopefully they will help someone else later on.

1. NO, the new flywheel had the same amount of play, but the old one was a little easier to move. The issue that arises is the clutch mating surface. Resurfacing (turning) the flywheel is not recommended. I think this is because of the dual mass, and that you can't hold the facing steady enough to get a good grind. Apparently the Flywheel is designed to live and die with the clutch.

2. Yes, new LUK flywheels come with the Pilot bearing installed. Autozone by far had the best price on a genuine LUK flywheel, but it took almost 2 weeks to get it. Right at $499 with tax and free shipping.

3. NO, those parts are for 2000 and up S models, not 99's. I think I misled the first dealer when I asked for those parts for my 99.

4. The Clutch Clamp is different for the later release levers.

Long story short, clutch release arm broke. After disassembly found clutch plate worn just to the rivets. Flywheel may be bad also. I'm trying to make sure I get what I need to do the job right.

Questions:

1. Flywheel has about 5 teeth of free play, twisting it like an oreo. It does not spring back, I can move it and it stays. Does that prove that its bad?

2. Do new Luk Dual Mass flywheels come with a pilot bearing installed?

3. As for the clutch lever parts. From what I can tell they have all been updated. Can anyone confirm that the parts below will fit in my 99 Boxster? Are all of them needed to change to the new lever? Is anything else needed? The part numbers did come from a dealer, but I just need some piece of mind that the parts are correct.

996-116-716-02 Ball Pin

996-116-741-00 Clutch Clamp

996-116-743-00 CLUTCH SEALIN

997-116-712-01 RELEASE LEVER

4. If the parts are correct, is the clutch clamp any different than the one that was on the original lever?

The good news is that my RMS and intermediate shaft aren't leaking.

Thanks a bunch for any help. Any other advice is welcome.

John

I need to replace my slave cylinder, but I don't know how to identify whether the union and pipe have been updated. Here's what it says on the ordering page:

"For models through 1999 may require update pipe and union from Porsche dealer if not previously updated"

But they can't tell me how to identify the change. Any of you know how to tell the difference?

It is a 99 Boxster.

Thanks,

John

My old key self destructed and I have a new remote entry key that is cut the same but will not start the car. How do I marry the new key to the car?

Has to be done by a dealer. The dealer will need the code from the hang tag that should have come with the remote. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get a new key cut?

If you don't mind my asking, where did you source a mount for $194?

Thanks

HJ

www.froogle.com The site was RacePages.com, but that price was only good through a link from Froogle. My nearest dealer, Hennessy Porsche had one for $186 I think (reciept is in the shop) after the PCA discount. All in all it was $200 out the door for the mount, an oil drain plug, 2 washers and tax. If you have a nearby dealer its always a good idea to give them a call, sometimes they have good prices. They're about 80 miles from me, but I needed an excuse to go for a Saturday morning drive anyway.

John

Well I did it. Just over two hours including jacking up the car. I wasn't able to take pics. Here is a quick walkthrough of the process.

1. After the car is raised, support the front of the engine using a bottle jack with a piece of wood between the jack and the engine.

2. Remove the 2 plastic underbody panels.

3. There are plastic straps that secure the 2 large coolant hoses to the crossmember attached to the engine mount. Loosen these straps and wiggle them off of the crossmemeber.

4. Remove the 4 studs holding the crossmember on. They have 9mm heads on the end for this purpose.

5. Loosen the top two bolts on the engine mount (15mm).

6 Remove the lower two bolts of the engine mount. The engine must be lowered a few inches in order for the bolts to clear the underbody.

7. Once all the fasteners are out, the unit can be pivoted out but you have to push the coolant hoses to the side carefully as you do this.

8. Once its out, replace the old mount with the new one and reverse the process.

I hope this may help someone else out.

John

I have never watched this being done. By the time I show up at my dealer the old mount is already out and on the shop floor. But I have not seen any indication that coolant was added so they must be able to remove the mount without taking off a radiator hose. But they have a lift and an engine jack.

I assume the rubber part on your 2.5 has started to slide out of the housing, so that the engine contacts the body when you go around a turn. One of the mechanics suggested that it be pounded back in, then drill a hole in the housing, then put a screw in the hole to keep it from sliding out. If you look at a new style mount there is a plate on each end of the housing so that the rubber bushing cannot slide out like on the old style.

Thanks TP,

Unfortunately the rubber is torn and the engine is no longer "floating" in the middle of mount. I picked up a new mount today, and I'm going to try to tackle it later this evening. The manual on CD that I have only shows it being removed with the engine out of the car. I wonder if the Bentley manual covers such things? I may have to wait and pick one up if I'm not successful tonight.

Does anyone have detailed instructions? It looks fairly straighforward, but I don't see how I can get it out without removing the radiator hoses. MY99. While we're at it, has anyone found the mount for less than $194?

TIA,

John

I went the Harbor Freight route and bought a set that was on sale for around $13. I've been using them daily, there is almost no delay now. I think the cheap compressor just needed to be broken in. Time will tell whether it was worth it or not. Of course the stock horns only lasted 7 years :-(

Finally installed the horns yesterday (and cleaned my radiators while I was in there). Great mounting idea TP! For the mounting bracket I used a piece of a leftover steel shelving leg. Since I was taking out the stock horns, I spliced into those wires for power. All kinds of loud now. I don't like the slight delay, but I'll get used to it.

Thanks again,

John

Thanks for all the details TP! I can't get to it till next weekend, but I'll let you know how it goes.

John

Thanks TP,

If you don't mind posting the pics when you get a chance, I'd appreciate it.

John

I added air horns to the existing electric horns. I did not run a separate circuit with a relay and fues for the compressor like you are supposed to. Instead I hooked into the existing electric horn circuit.

So all the horns run off the original relay and fuse. The first time I pressed the horn pad I expected to blow the fuse or fry the relay since there are 2 high amp devices on the same circuit. All I got was a lot of sound. Been 2 years this way with no problems and I do use my horns.

Since I did it the "wrong" way I only needed to run a ground wire from the compressor to a ground lug in the front trunk, and the positive wire goes to the wire from the horn pad with is in the white 21 pin connector next to the brake booster.

Ths was on a 986.

ToolPants,

Where did you mount the air horns on the 986? I've gotten a set for mine to replace the originals. Looking for a starting point.

Thanks,

John

996 106 447 01 Cap - retail $17.05 (as of Sept 2005)

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Many Thanks!

What is the newest revision number for the coolant cap? 99 Boxster Base.

Thanks