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About bigbadjohn

  • Birthday 05/02/1963

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2008 Boxster RS60 Spyder
  • Future cars
  • Former cars
    1984 Porsche 944
    1999 Boxster Base Black
    2002 Boxster S Speed Yellow
    2000 Boxster S Arctic Silver

bigbadjohn's Achievements


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  1. Dave, I have a cassette radio that I'd be glad to let you have. I lost the code, but you can get that here. If you'll email your address to me, I'll get it out soon. a986dude@gmail.com John
  2. Does anyone have the instructions for making the light in the FWL switch come on when the spoiler is up? I installed the switch to operate the OBD. I see links to "Sandy's Spoiler Indicator Light", but the link is dead. TIA, John
  3. Yes this can be done. You'll need to take trim piece around the DSP module off, and put that on the tray. And take the one from the tray and put that on the DSP module. You may need to cut a couple of the plastic wire wraps around the harness to extend the length, but it should reach. Nope, that won't work. The trays don't have a trim piece. The upper section of the lower console is shorter than the lower section, so the DSP unit won't fit, or, at least I couldn't make it fit. I ended up stuffing the controller behind the console, leaving the CD holder in the upper section, and the storage bin in the lower section.
  4. I'd like to move the DSP from the bottom slot to the next one up, and put a tray that I already have in that spot. Can this be done and what do I need to do it? Thanks, John
  5. I want to use some plastic weld to fix a couple of screw holes. Want to make sure I get the right stuff. Thanks, John
  6. Thanks everyone. I appreciate the responses. John
  7. A porsche dealer told me that they don't share repair records between dealers. Can anyone confirm/deny this? I always thought that all work done by dealers was saved in a central database. TIA, John
  8. The Boxster was wrecked into a ditch and cracked the bumper cover in half, among a lot of other things. No injuries. I'm interested in changing the front bumper to a different style, nothing turbo like, just a different look, and something that wouldn't cost anymore than an original replacement. If any of you would care to post pics and/or links to vendors, I'd appreciate. Trying to swap up without additional costs. Thanks, John
  9. Yes, I used the Autozone Luk Flywheel. As far as I can tell it is a genuine Luk Flywheel. What do you mean when you say "I do not trust the dual mass flywheel"? Is it that you think yours is worn, or that you're afraid they'll come apart? I think in the long run, I would be better off with a light weight one, but I just couldn't justify another couple hundred $$. I bought the sachs clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, release bearing) off of ebay from gripforce-clutches for $281 including shipping. It was the best deal I could find. It came with a small packet of grease for the center of the clutch disk. Anything else I can answer, let me know...
  10. Thought I would post the answers. Hopefully they will help someone else later on. 1. NO, the new flywheel had the same amount of play, but the old one was a little easier to move. The issue that arises is the clutch mating surface. Resurfacing (turning) the flywheel is not recommended. I think this is because of the dual mass, and that you can't hold the facing steady enough to get a good grind. Apparently the Flywheel is designed to live and die with the clutch. 2. Yes, new LUK flywheels come with the Pilot bearing installed. Autozone by far had the best price on a genuine LUK flywheel, but it took almost 2 weeks to get it. Right at $499 with tax and free shipping. 3. NO, those parts are for 2000 and up S models, not 99's. I think I misled the first dealer when I asked for those parts for my 99. 4. The Clutch Clamp is different for the later release levers.
  11. Long story short, clutch release arm broke. After disassembly found clutch plate worn just to the rivets. Flywheel may be bad also. I'm trying to make sure I get what I need to do the job right. Questions: 1. Flywheel has about 5 teeth of free play, twisting it like an oreo. It does not spring back, I can move it and it stays. Does that prove that its bad? 2. Do new Luk Dual Mass flywheels come with a pilot bearing installed? 3. As for the clutch lever parts. From what I can tell they have all been updated. Can anyone confirm that the parts below will fit in my 99 Boxster? Are all of them needed to change to the new lever? Is anything else needed? The part numbers did come from a dealer, but I just need some piece of mind that the parts are correct. 996-116-716-02 Ball Pin 996-116-741-00 Clutch Clamp 996-116-743-00 CLUTCH SEALIN 997-116-712-01 RELEASE LEVER 4. If the parts are correct, is the clutch clamp any different than the one that was on the original lever? The good news is that my RMS and intermediate shaft aren't leaking. Thanks a bunch for any help. Any other advice is welcome. John
  12. I need to replace my slave cylinder, but I don't know how to identify whether the union and pipe have been updated. Here's what it says on the ordering page: "For models through 1999 may require update pipe and union from Porsche dealer if not previously updated" But they can't tell me how to identify the change. Any of you know how to tell the difference? It is a 99 Boxster. Thanks, John
  13. Has to be done by a dealer. The dealer will need the code from the hang tag that should have come with the remote. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get a new key cut?
  14. www.froogle.com The site was RacePages.com, but that price was only good through a link from Froogle. My nearest dealer, Hennessy Porsche had one for $186 I think (reciept is in the shop) after the PCA discount. All in all it was $200 out the door for the mount, an oil drain plug, 2 washers and tax. If you have a nearby dealer its always a good idea to give them a call, sometimes they have good prices. They're about 80 miles from me, but I needed an excuse to go for a Saturday morning drive anyway. John
  15. Well I did it. Just over two hours including jacking up the car. I wasn't able to take pics. Here is a quick walkthrough of the process. 1. After the car is raised, support the front of the engine using a bottle jack with a piece of wood between the jack and the engine. 2. Remove the 2 plastic underbody panels. 3. There are plastic straps that secure the 2 large coolant hoses to the crossmember attached to the engine mount. Loosen these straps and wiggle them off of the crossmemeber. 4. Remove the 4 studs holding the crossmember on. They have 9mm heads on the end for this purpose. 5. Loosen the top two bolts on the engine mount (15mm). 6 Remove the lower two bolts of the engine mount. The engine must be lowered a few inches in order for the bolts to clear the underbody. 7. Once all the fasteners are out, the unit can be pivoted out but you have to push the coolant hoses to the side carefully as you do this. 8. Once its out, replace the old mount with the new one and reverse the process. I hope this may help someone else out. John
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