sullivas

I believe someone documented cable replacement on Rennlist, with pictures. Long job.

There is a junction point under the vehicle on the right side near the engine thats prone to corrosion and can cause a voltage drop.

Is that the location of the "faulty crimp" done by the factory?

And by right side you mean passenger side?

You need to first correctly test the cable. What you need to do is disconnect both ends of the cable and check it for resistance over its lenght, if you find any, replace the cable.

What if I left the cable connected and checked resistance? Or, remove the cable at the battery and leave the alt cable connected while getting a reading?

Is there a way to disconnect the cable from the alt without removing the alt or anything else?

I wanted to check the main power cable in my '05 because I know there was an issue

with the crimping of the cable.

With the car hot after a run I turned on the high beams and blower on full and tested voltages,

I had 13.3V at the battery and 13.6 at the alternator.

Does this indicate a defective cable or is it normal to have a drop in voltage of .3 volts.

Thanks

Good news thanks!

Anyone know if the Prestone bulb & arrow type coolant tester works accurately with our pink Porsche coolant?

Thanks

Ok great, thanks Loren. Picking up one more gallon at the dealer tonight.

Drained 2 gallons from the rear plug.

I opened the air bleed valve (cold engine), topped off the coolant and drove for 1/2 hour

as various rpm's heater on, with bleeder open.

Upon returning the coolant was a little lower, no danger zone.

However the bleed valve was open on its own. I pushed down on it but it raised back up

and it didn't return to its normal position until the engine had cooled down.

Anyone know if this is normal?

Thanks Logray.

It was the '2 gallons out 2 gallons water in' method through the rear drain valve.

Not the hose disconnection complete flush.

Can anyone explain how the bleeder/purge valve located at the coolant reservoir works and how it should be used? I just did a coolant flush/fill and could use some detail on that valve and getting all air out of the system without an AirLift.

Thanks

Thanks Logray I went thru all their diagrams but didn't know it was on the oil pump housing!

Anyone know the part number of the sealing washer for the rear coolant drain

plug on an 05 C2 M96 engine?

I tried looking it up but it wasn't in the diagrams.

Thanks

Thanks Rob that helps!

The discussions are kind of a mixed bag. Some say the mirror housing seam

causes the noise, some say the rubber seals.

Some say the dealer just replaced the mirror under warranty.

I guess I'll have to experiment with tape and w-stripping foam

since my CPO is expired.

Thanks

Loren-

I did but the threads (on Rennlist) I read all pointed towards the mirrors.

Anyone esle have this problem? At speed say 60 and up intermittently I get a loud whistle, sounds like it

is coming from the driver side mirror area. Happens usually when the sunroof is tilted open, but does

happen occasionally with sunroof closed.

I read there is a TSB on the mirror but couldn't find one.

Thanks logray

Trying to find the part numbers for mufflers on an 05 Carrera C2.

Thanks

By moving the mouse fast I was able to get over to the drop down to click on TSB's.

On my PC the drop downs are all shifted over under other topics. I'll try clearing the cache.

Thanks

I'm can't get to the TSB's. I've tried Firefox and I.E., I see them in the DIY drop-down, but the dropdown is not under the 'DIY Menu' so can't click on it.

Think I'll pick one up.

Logray if you were just removing the trans how long do you think it would take?

The first time I spent a whole day dropping it.

The second time, about 4 hours including short lunch.

It's actually pretty fun to do once you've done it before.

Thank you again, Ill keep an eye out for those in need.

Does the trans have to come out as well?

Would examination of the oil filter show the same thing?