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Everything posted by sullivas

  1. Maybe you could wait. I had the dealer fit 4 Mich PSS on my 997 C2 and the ride and handling is great.
  2. There are 4 linkage screws directly under the boot, all appeared to be tight, 2 of them are hard to get to.. I popped off the knob cap and tightened the 2 small screws inside and put a little 3m anti-squeak tape on the 3 plastic prongs on the cap and snapped it back on. Still have a slight rattle noise, seems to be when in 3rd gear and a certain rpm. I think it's just that the shift linkage is loosening up due to normal use, guess I'll ignore it. I do remember seeing a piece somewhere about shimming the shift assembly but it would have to be pretty noisy for me to go
  3. Hello All, It seems my shift knob is gradually developing a rattle/buzz/vibration noise. Looking to see if anyone has the same issue and what could be the fix for it. There are no transmission / engine problem, runs great. Any advice appreciated! Thanks
  4. Yes it was obvious - the lower control arm to crossmember mount bolt was very loose allowing a lot of movement by the right front wheel. Replaced with a new one.
  5. Hi, I was looking for my front end noise problem and I discovered the bolt that attaches the lower control arm (wishbone) and holds a horizontal bushing to the crossmember is loose. It is 12M x 1.5. About 4" long. Given the attached chart should I use 89ft lb or 56ft lb torque? Also, the face of the nut is kind of shiny from friction, I don't know if it was a ribbed type for locking purposes, I don't see any evidence that it was. The inside of the bolt cap is somewhat smooth as well.. Should I replace them with new? I hope the looseness of the bolt hasn't rounded out the attachm
  6. Apparently there are 2 paint codes for Seal Gray, I'm trying to find out if the formulas are different. The paint code on the door sticker on my '05 997 which is Seal Gray is 6B4 yet when I bought Seal Gray touch-up paint 6B5 is marked on the packaging. Also, I'm having a new mirror housing re-painted because the first shop painted it and it is too dark, they said the code is listed as 6B5. The new shop I am using also says 6B5 is the code for Seal Gray. I've seen on a touchup paint site the 2 codes listed one under the other for Seal Gray with no explanation. Anybody have similar experiences
  7. Hello, My 05 c2 Carrera (17k miles) has developed a noise coming from the right front. It's kind of a clunk/thump noise and mostly happens when turning left running over rough pavement/manhole cover etc. Although it will also (rarely) make the noise when driving forward and hitting a cavity in the road surface just so. I just had the strut bump stops replaced which were torn and I would think the Tech would have discovered any other problems during the install. I have removed everything from the Frunk including plastic covers, and also the glove box contents. I'll be lifting the ca
  8. I'm dropping the sunroof lids and headliner to track down a few rattles that are driving me nuts. After disconnecting the headliner from all its connections the factory manual says to pull the middle of the sunroof frame back and downwards and this provides enough room at the forward corners to pop them free then slide the whole frame forward and down. This is after the headliner is disconnected everywhere and the frame is the last thing to remove. The frame I am talking about has the headliner bonded to it. I haven't tried it yet but it looks fairly sturdy, I'm concerned it will snap. The he
  9. So I did a couple tests when the engine was hot, at idle, hi beams were on and A/C full blast. The drop test showed about 250mV so I figure that's a good sign as far as the cable. However the voltage from the alt to the battery was 13.4-13.5. Is this acceptable in a 997. I have read other's comment saying the voltage should always be between 13.8 and anywhere over 14.0. Is the alternator on the weak side or is this considered normal given the load and low rpms?
  10. I ran the voltage drop test (cold) on my 997 alternator B+-to-battery-POS and got dynamic readings ranging from ~150 millivolts to ~80 millivolts. I noticed the millivolts started dropping as the car ran for a minute or two. Can I assume there is virtually no drop? I am going to test again after driving on a hot day.
  11. I would like to test the cable during cranking but the engine starts quick so I don't get a valid reading. On the 997 is there an easy was to disable the engine from starting so I can get a few seconds of crank load on my voltmeter to check for drop. In olden days I could just remove the rotor.
  12. Jfp- Thanks but that one discusses the negative cable connection necessary tightness to the body upon delivery to the customer.
  13. Before my extended warranty runs out I'd like to make sure the alternator cable is not one of the faulty ones. Was there a TSB on the matter? I have searched but can't find one. If there is one, does anyone know the number? Thanks.
  14. Well I saw a tip on the web about this. I wound a piece of duct tape around the stiker plate pin where the door latch grabs it and the thump noise stopped. So to me that means that the plate needs to be moved in closer to the car or I need to replace the door weatherstrip to make the door sit tighter to the car. The car only has 13.7K miles on it, and there is no door sag. Any opinions or experience out there on this? I don't think the door latch is faulty given the low wear & tear on the car. Being a 7 year old car could the weatherstrip have shrunken enough to reduce the tightnes
  15. Anyone know what configuration/size Torx needed to fit these screws? Not standard Torx. Thanks.
  16. Anyone else have this issue? Whenever I hit a manhole cover or bump I get a thunk/creak (hard to describe) coming from the area of the driver's B pillar, seatbelt/pillar/door area. Driving me crazy. I peeled back the weatherstrip and put some butyl tape where the plastic side is a little loose but that didn't fix it. The bezel around the seat belt creaks when I move it around but I don't think the noise is comig from there. Thanks!
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