jimmy3530

Larry: I just removed mine the other day. I'm going from memory here but there are only 2 bolts holding it to the ball wall. Be careful not to loose the rubberized nut/grommet which is attached to the bodywork. After that there are a couple of screws in front, just in front of the door. The whole unit then just slides forward. You'll then see 2 RCA plugs and another connector. Hope that helps. Very easy.

Agreed with tonybony123! However, if something is wrong I'd like to fix it. I'll try cleaning the MAF. I should also note that when I said "city driving" its really stop and go traffic in gridlocked DC

Yes, its in the right way, and so are the CDs. Still haven't been able to get it to work.

Hi everyone: I'm checking to see if anyone has had/is having a similar problem. I've got a 2000 996 C4 with the Navigation system (PCM1 I believe) and a 6 disc CD changer under the hood (CDC-3). It was working up until a week ago or so when I ejected the cartridge to load different CD's. Now when I put in the cartridge, it doesn't seem to lock in place, that is, it could slide out, if the door was not there. When I press the CD button on the radio, it says "No CD". It almost seems like it does not have power. I tried fiddling with the inner gear loading system to no avail. Everything seems OK on the inside. Also, the 3 connectors (power/audio) seem good too however did not check their voltage. Anyone have this happen with theirs? Can anyone suggest options. This unit seems a little expensive to replace. Better than a 6 disc changer, is their a mod than could hook up to the cabling and play, say an iPod or something similar. Thanks Jimmy

I'm looking for recommendations for a good indy in the Washington DC area for my 2000 C4. I have been using Autohaus in Bethesda, MD for my BMW which specializes in German cars but more the BMW, Mercedes and Audi types. They say they've also worked on P cars but I'm thinking I'd check with the forum before trusting them to do any work. They also don't have the capability to mount new tires on my wheels which is something I'll be needing to do soon. Hopefully with all the good advice on this forum, I'll never have to visit an indy mechanic but its always good to have a name just in case! Thanks!

How do you clean the MAF? It seems somewhat delicate. Wouldn't want to damage it.

Hi everyone and thanks for all the responses. RPM996, judging by the OBC, I'm getting approx 14 mpg during my commutes to work. That's what I'm saying is terrible only because i understand that's its supposed to be 19-20. And yes, agreed, the tank is small. The car is approaching 50K so maybe I'll swap out the plugs to see if that helps. Tires are good, air cleaner is new. What else can I try?

How about thoughts on jumping ship to Castrol Syntec? From the information that I've been able to gather, a switch from Mobil 1 0W40 to 5W30 or 5W40 might sound like a good idea? Thanks!

Yes, its a radar detector and a great one at that. I've go the K40/2000 system installed and it works fabulous. What else can I say? I also agree that even in city mode, its a little too senstitive but that better than the other option. Volume level could go lower as well. Jimmy 2000 C4 6 speed

Hey everyone: Just a quick survey....I'm wondering if everyone is filling their tank with 93+ octane gas all the time as is recommended. I know that it will self adjust to a lower rating but I wanted to know if there is a significant (measurable) drop in performance, mileage, or possibly something else. I use my 2000 C4 as a (almost) daily driver and my gas mileage is absolutely terrible to start with and so I seem to be at the pump every couple days. Thanks

I just did a search for "operating temperature". You'll see it. I've copied the text below. The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. Same as 996.... To switch from F to C: Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. I have yet to verify all these, this info was copied from wonderful people on PPBB! Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp?

Loren: I see that you've replaced the flip-top ashtray with a small tray to hold some coins etc. Would this fit a 2000 996? It looks much better. Do you know the code for the natural brown of the Millenium edition?

Thanks for the information. I took a peak in the front intake areas and there are definitely some leaves in there. I've also pulled the coolant temp hack info and will play with that tomorrow. I'm looking forward to pulling the bumper off and sees whats in behind there.

Hi Everyone: Just finished replacing the coolant tank because of a leak. What a job! Tons of information on the site to guide one through the process. Couldn't have done it without all of you! New question? What is the correct operating temperature for a 2000 996 C4? The temperature gauge yesterday (after the tank fix) sits on the "0" of the 180. Kinda tough to say what the number is...I would say 200-205 or so. The needle is almost at the tick mark between 180 and 250. It just seems high to me. It was hot out yesterday though - high 80's over here in Washington DC. Any guidance on this matter. I read that many people install a third radiator and I'm wondering if this is something I should do. Seems odd though that this would be something that Porsche would underestimate.... Thanks in advance everyone!

An update: I got the old tank out after removing the left side engine mounting bolt after having supported the engine with a jack. When the nut finally came off, the engine dropped a bit. I guess I did not sufficiently raise the jack to take all the load off the mounting bolt. How much is too much? My question is how much can I lower the engine without damaging it and anything around it when I am putting the new tank in? Should I remove the mount bolts on both sides?

Sorry but I forgot to ask if I get to remove the engine mount bolts, do I physically lower the engine, OR, keep it where it is and raise the body? Sorry for all the questions, but needless to say, I feel that I am in over my head.

Thanks guys. I didn't know there was commentary attached to the DIY. I'm new to the site. So to summarize: 1. On a 2000 C4, I need to drop the engine on the left side (drivers). Just one bolt? I have never even dreamed of doing this. 2. Do I need to jack up the car at the rear at all. One of the posts said I need 2 jacks. One for the car and one to support the engine. 3. Orient posted a pic of where to put the support jack, but its not really clear where. 4. What tools do i need to loosen/remove the motor mount bolt. How do I get to it. I starting to think I am over my head.

Hi Everyone: Ok, so I spent the evening trying to get the coolant tank out out of my 2000 C4. Thanks Loren for the guidance and Orient Express for suggesting that tool from Sears. Worked great. Drained some coolant, got the clips/hoses off, fuel lines disconnected, unattached the fuel filter from the coolant reservoir. Then I used the jack which comes with the car to lift the car at the rear jack point on the drivers' side. Lifted it up as far as it allowed. This actually didn't seem to give me much more clearance. Am I doing something wrong here. THIS TANK DOES NOT WANT TO COME OUT !!!! I'm going to go as far as to say, there is no way it can come out. The plastic "seat" for the fuel filter seems to get caught on the engine. I've already ruined the tank sensor (got caught on something while trying to pull the tank out). The tank seems to be 75% out but it gets stuck between the body panel and the engine. I'm somewhat starting to panic now since even if it does come out, putting a new one in, without ruining the sensor seems impossible to me. I'm starting to envision towing it to the Indy. Anyone out there have any advice? Has anyone been successful with removing it on a 996 C4? I guess more clearance would help but the jacking on the one side of the car didn't really seem to help. HELP!

Sorry for all the questions but why do I need a jack if it comes out through the back of the car.

Thanks Loren...already studied it in detail and the DIY tutorial is what is giving me the confidence to proceed on my own and save some $$$. But if it really is a struggle, maybe I'll throw in the towel and take it to the dealer. Seems straightforward right?

Thanks for the quick replies Loren and Orient Express. Does "very difficult to remove" mean an impossible DIY without lowering the engine? I thought this would be a pretty straightforward fix with the right tools. Is the tank not designed to be pulled out? What am I missing?

Hi Everyone: I've got a 2000C4 with 48,000 miles. Runs like a champ except for a small problem... Thought i fixed a pinhole type leak in and around the coolant tank area but it sprang back today. I've read the other posts and examined the DIY for removal of the coolant tank. Before I spring the cash for a new tank (>$200), I'm kinda wondering what exactly could be leaking. The hoses going to the tank are in great shape (all three), spring clamps are tight, cap is new. Could the tank itself be leaking? Seems somewhat odd. If someone could confirm the procedure for replacing the tank; drain enough coolant from the engine to ensure the hoses are empty, remove the air pump and then the fuel filter connections (will fuel leak out?). It seems like disconnecting the hoses from the coolant tank is next to impossible given the tight quarters? Anyone have any tips? Is a special tool needed for those spring clamps? Should I replace them with SS hose clamps? Thanks in advance for the advice. Looking to get her back on the road asap.

So, I came home from work the other day and noticed a coolant leak once the car got into the garage. It was spraying long enough to cause it to drip onto the exhaust and make a mess. Once I popped the hood (do we call it the hood?....maybe boot is better), I noticed a fine spray of coolant coming from the tank area. Tough to see where it originated from though. It stopped once I released the pressure by unscrewing the coolant tank cap (carefully). I spent the weekend seeing if I could replicate the leak to no avail. I ran the engine long enough for the temp gauge to reach 180F. My guess is that the leak is from the coolant temp/level sensor at the bottom of the tank. Hoses look good and so do the spring clamps. I noticed Loren saying that the coolant tank is usually the problem...but what in particular? The sensor seems particularly flimsy to me. If i notice it again, I guess I'll replace the tank. They are not cheap though. Thanks much!

I'm a big fan of the brute force approach but given the investment, I decided to get a mirror in there and figured out that there is indeed something to squeeze on the hidden side. It comes right off when you squeeze the little clip. Voila. Thanks!

Thanks! I don't feel totally incompentant now. I will try harder now. The last thing I want to do is break it $$$$