jimmy3530

I recently replaced the 3rd brake light in my 2000 C4 and it was PnP! 5 minute job. Looks way better. I bought the unit from Maxspeed in Quebec. Great quality.

Loren:

Did you mean to say that most 996's release high as designed?

I will take a look at the DIY for bleeding.

My clutch is definitely not very hard to push. It's stiffer than that on a Japanese car, but it is German-like.

Hi Everyone:

I've got a 2000 Carrera 4 with 57K miles on it. I'm using it as my daily driver in heavy stop and go traffic which is very irritating but on the positive side, it makes stretches of open road that much more fun.

My question is that the clutch releases at the very top of the pedal movement however there is no perceived slip at low speeds and high revs. Could I be low on fluid? I'm planning on changing the clutch next spring but I'm wondering how much time I have. Or maybe there is a quick adjustment.

Thoughts?

Great advice....could you be specific about where the "engine lug" is. I've read the posts about jacking on the crankcase and possibly putting too much strain on the motor mounts so I am a little weary about doing that. I don't want to create new problems. If you have a picture/diagram, that would be very helpful! Thanks!

Hi everyone:

I was just wondering what exactly are Litronic headlights. I have a 2000 C4 Millenium Edition and it came with that option and I've always wondered what exactly makes them special. They seem just like regular halogen or xenon lights to me. Can anyone shed some light on this topic.

Thanks.

Thank you Maurice for the very detailed instructions. VERY helpful.

I must say that I am a little surprised/skeptical/doubtful that THE WHOLE SIDE (BOTH WHEELS) of the car will lift off the ground enough to place a jackstand at the front simply by jacking at the rear jack point. Is the car that stiff?

I hope my jack can do this.

Hi Everyone:

I'm ready to tackle my first brake job (in my life) on my 2000 C4. I've read the DIY and it looks pretty straightforward. I'm confident that I won't go crashing off the highway once I'm done. I'll be going with OEM pads and shouldn't need to replace the rotors, no real lip there yet. The brakes squeal a little when stopping but no light has ever come on inside.

My question is sort off stupid but should I just jack up each corner at a time or should invest in a pair of stands and get one half of the car in the air for the job. If so, where do I place my jack as to get, say the front or rear wheels, off the ground.

Thanks for the clarification!

Thanks for the info on new speakers. Can you post the part number?

Hi Everyone:

Following up on this earlier post. To get rid of the switch's attitude (that is, not being able to insert the key until hearing the "click"), does one need to replace the switch or the entire ignition module. Not sure actually what is the difference. Obviously, I don't want a new key. But waiting for the "click" before I can insert the key is a little annoying.

I've read the DIY for swapping out the switch and I was also wondering if I need to disconnect the battery. Seems like people get all sorts of problems when re-connecting the battery.

Thanks!!!

Everyone:

I too am getting the same attitude from my ignition switch. I've read the forums Loren suggested to replace the switch but I was more wondering what that click is that prevents the key from entering.

Thanks!

No problems with any of the other systems after removing the navigation unit. I don't think they are connected but others may be in a better position to answer.

Does anyone know if there are OE winter rims and tires for a 2000 996 (C4)?. I'd rather not go aftermarket to keep the look of the car, but I can't seem to find anything used.

Thanks and if anyone is keeping score, I've driven my C4 in fake MD snow for a few years on my summer tires and its performed well (and way better than my 3-series RWD BMW). Anything more than a few inches would be a different story though.

The previous owner installed a K40 which works wonders. I highly recommend a radar detector. I've been using a BEL product (portable unit) in my other car for 15 years and its saved me from COUNTLESS tickets in the upstate NY area. That said, I've still gotten tickets with it. Is it foolproof? No. But I don't travel without it. I agree with others on this post though, that is, you need to use your common sense, but 55 mph is a little slow sometimes, especially in a 911.

Hi everyone:

I'm thinking about replacing the head unit in my 2000 Carrera 4 and would like to do it myself, however I've got some hardware that I need to remove from the previous owner. Can anyone recommend a good shop in the DC/MD/VA area where I can take my car and assess the audio system and perhaps do the new installation. I'm leaning against the kids at Best Buy...

Thanks!

Just posting an update to this thread. I had my windshield clayed this past weekend and to my surprise, many of the pitts came out. The glass isn't perfect but it's MUCH better, especially in sunlight. The guy who taught me how to do it said to take a ziploc bag put your hand in it and then pass it over the windshield. You'll be able to feel all the little bumps that the clay can then take off. Sure enough, after we clayed it, the glass was, as the saying goes, smooth as glass. Remarkable really.

Yes it does. I removed the nav unit but left the PCM1 in while I decide on a headunit. I replaced it with a shelt which is FAR MORE useful that the nav unit. I can confirm that the OBC, radio etc. still works.

Sorry for the typo but its Euro Motorspeed. Check out their store on ebay and of course the multiple posts on this forum describing it. It's essentially an adapter kit for new 2DIN headunits. It consists of the wiring adapters and a very high quality faceplate that replaces the PCM1 unit. Highly recommend it.

On the headunit side, the main providers are Kenwood, JVC, Pioneer, Sony and Jensen. I like the JVC KW-NT30HD, it has a removable faceplate which is nice.

OK..so I figured it out. I just stuck an allen key in each of the 4 holes, pushed them in and voila, the unit slid out. Unclipped the power, data, and ground and now its sitting in my unused Porsche parts bin. I should also mention that before you slide in the new upper shelf, you also need to remove the thin metal supppot cage. It comes out after a little bit of wiggling/coaxing.

Now the next step is to buy a 2DIN unit with navigation and use that fabulous kit from Euromotorsports.

Thanks and I hope these few insights help someone else.

RIchard:

Thanks. I pulled out the covers on both sides of the unit and see the holes. I don't have "rod removal tools" but I can probably make something to fit. What kind of action is required? Thanks so much for your insights here. Always good to get advice from someone whose done this before.

Richard:

Thanks for the tip. Got the side panels off (very easy) and removed the sprung catch from either side near the top (top left in the pic). This allowed the CD unit to come out of the frame about an inch. See attached picture. From there on, it won't budge. It seems to me that there is another hard stop in there. The sides look pretty clear but something may be catching on the top or bottom.

Any ideas? It's kinda funny that I can't wait to remove this PCM1 system and replace it with a shelf!!!!!

Thanks!

Thanks Randall. Very helpful information. In retrospect, I may want to keep the silver colored crest on my 2000 996. A colored one would look way better IMHO but the risk of screwing something up on the airbag seems high. I'll keep the forum posted.

WOW...thanks. Exactly what I needed to know.

Hi, I've bought a new lighter assembly for Suncoast. It seems to have two parts: a lighted plastic ring and the actual lighter and metal socket.

Can someone tell me how to get the old assembly out? Do I need to take it out from behind (hope not).

Thanks.

I still have to get mine off, when I do, I will let you know. I've tried and tried and I just can't seem to pry it loose.

I still haven't figured out how to replace the steering wheel crest. I'm afraid of breaking something. Seems like they are physically attached to an interior part of the wheel. With the airbag there, I don't want to screw it up.