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Hey Wvicary, Thanks again for the advice. I guess i should clarify exactly where the leak is coming in. I don't think that it is coming in through the frame, but I will double check that to make sure. So the leak is coming in just to the right of the passenger side rear hatch pin/latch mechanism on the very back of the hatch, and is right at the corner. I've sat out in the rain to watch it, and have sat in the car to watch it as well while it is raining (I keep it covered now when it rains). Is there a way that the entire hatch can be aligned incorrectly? I can see it very clearly when i look at the back of the car and it seems that the entire hatch is over to the driver's side by several millimeters. You were right. I spent a bit of time trying to adjust the hatch hinges, the latching pins and their mating points to no avail. I started spraying water on the car and then running inside the back of the car to watch what happens in the hatch. I started seeing some water seeping in along side of the hatch and then rolling down towards the back. It's funny, because the window seal seems to be intact, but i guess the glass has become de-bonded, as you said. I know what I'll be doing the next time we have a few nice days in a row. I've seen some detailed instructions on re-sealing the hatch glass to the frame on Clarks Garage and Pelican Parts, but have you or anybody done this and have any other advice? Thanks!
Thanks! I've already switched out the old pins for new stainless steel ones so I will just take remove them while I try to adjust the hinges and then also adjust the pin mating points. Thanks for the help!
Hey Wvicary, Thanks again for the advice. I guess i should clarify exactly where the leak is coming in. I don't think that it is coming in through the frame, but I will double check that to make sure. So the leak is coming in just to the right of the passenger side rear hatch pin/latch mechanism on the very back of the hatch, and is right at the corner. I've sat out in the rain to watch it, and have sat in the car to watch it as well while it is raining (I keep it covered now when it rains). Is there a way that the entire hatch can be aligned incorrectly? I can see it very clearly when i look at the back of the car and it seems that the entire hatch is over to the driver's side by several millimeters.
I have a 1986 944 N/A that I just recently bought a few months ago. I've been noticing a small leak in the corner of the rear hatch area on the passenger side. It is not coming in through the latch mechanism, but rather is pooling on the corner of the body, then building up and coming in over the seal. For a while, i just couldn't understand how this was happening, but then I noticed that the entire hatch seems to be miss-aligned (if that's the proper word). The entire hatch seems to be shifted to the drivers side by several millimeters, such that when it is closed the left side hatch frame sits outside of the seal and the right side (where the leak is) sits on top of the seal. I have the rear ceiling panel out to access the hinge bolts, thinking that there has got to be a way to align the hatch. Before I do this I wanted to see if anybody knew for sure that this was possible, or had any other ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!
I'm new to the site and just got my first Porsche about a month ago. It's a 1986 944 with a custom performance DME chip that was installed before I bought the car. My question is about the oil pressure while driving and idling. In my car the oil pressure is always between 4 and 5 bar. It never drops down below 4 bar even when idling. I know that the oil pressure is supposed to drop to approximately 2-3 bar when idling after the car warms up. How big of a problem is this, if a problem at all? Could this be do to a faulty gauge or also do to the new DME chip? Could it simply mean an oil change? The previous owner suggested that I have another 1000 miles before an oil change, but I'm not positive about that based on visual inspection of the oil. Thanks for any suggestions and help. update...I just read at clark's garage that if your oil pressure is pegged high (5 bar) or won't indicate less than 4 bar at normal operating temperature, there is likely a problem with the oil pressure sending unit. Has anybody else found anything similar?