scxtasy

Thanks!

I recently got stranded on Mt. Hood in -15C ~ -20C weather in my month old diesel as it would not start. The verdict from Porsche was that non-winterized fuel purchased in Portland (where the weather to that point had been around +5C) had gelled. Searching on the web (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_diesel_fuel) this does look plausible, but I'd be interested in hearing thoughts from the community. Thanks!

Andrew

http://www.renntech....nt/#entry193637

Thanks Loren

I'm sure I saw this here before but now that I need it I can't find it. I need to put the Cayenne turbo script back on the rear of my 2006 CTT. Can someone please post the layout specs so that I can position it correctly? Thanks.

Thank you! Great DIY!

Yep, this was a great aid for me as well!

I recently purchased a 1994 RS America that had been in storage for a number of years. After flushing the fuel tank, replacing all of the fluids/filters/plugs/fuel lines etc.), replacing the TPS (for the Motec engine management system) and a number of other items it now passes emissions in the state of Washington and is an absolute blast to drive. One minor issue I still have is that the central locking/alarm system refuses to work. Does anyone have any information about this? A wiring/circuit diagram would be very useful here. Thanks!

Flav.

Great write up thanks. Helped with both my front and rear rotor/pad replacement:

I always remove the line from the cooler, it's easy to access and you can install extension hoses onto the fittings and direct them into pails. With the front wheels off the ground and engine off turn the steering wheel lock to lock until no more fluid is forced out. Reconnect the lines, fill the system and bleed it then check for leaks. I also throughly wash the area to be sure no old fluid is left hiding anywhere.

Pentosin 202 is the newest recommended fluid and replaces 11S.

Loren, I think those instructions don't include where they're draining it from. The instructions are for bleeding a dry system.. I seem to recall some instructions in the factory manual involving disconnecting a hose to drain the system while filling it up top..

Perhaps this for replacing the pump?

12. Disconnect pressure pipe on the servo oil cooler (line leading to the hydraulic fluid tank). Have a suitable plug ready for closing the line (hydraulic fluid escapes!). Collect emerging hydraulic fluid in a suitable container.

13. Fill the hydraulic fluid tank. Use a suitable auxiliary hose (approx. 10 - 15 cm, shop-made) to carry hydraulic fluid that emerges during rinsing into a suitable container (approx. 1.5 litres).

14. Rinse the hydraulic system with the engine running by turning the steering several times to the right or left stop, and adjust the hydraulic fluid level several times as required. Vehicle must be lowered onto the wheels for this. The tank must not run on empty while the engine is running (two workers required).

15. Fit the pressure pipe on the servo oil cooler.

16. Bleed the hydraulic system with the engine running by turning the steering several times to the right or left stop, and adjust the hydraulic fluid level several times as required (Page 296 'Test and assembly work on power steering') .

Loren, I think those instructions don't include where they're draining it from. The instructions are for bleeding a dry system.. I seem to recall some instructions in the factory manual involving disconnecting a hose to drain the system while filling it up top..

Thanks for all the info everyone. As soon as the Pentosin 202 arrives I'll flush the fluids.

Andrew

Simplest way to do it is simply empty and refill the PS reservoir several times. You won't get everything out, but it will look lots better. Make sure you use the correct Pensotin fluid.. the wrong stuff can destroy the pump and steering rack.

Thanks Don,

In another post you refer to a 2-man Porsche approved method. Do you have any further info? No problems if you don't as the method you suggest sounds simple enough.

Andrew

I have a 2006 Cayenne Turbo with dodgy looking power steering hydraulic fluid. Is flushing and replacing this a relatively easy thing to do? If anyone can send pointers on how to do this I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Andrew

At the risk of asking a dumb question... Why shouldn't you use auto?

never use auto and never use 6 you will damage the tranny

I have a brand new set in the box never used for my '09. I will check and see if they are the same as those for the '06 if you are interested.

I believe that the Porsche part number for both model years is 955 044 000 30, so they should be the same. Please send me a PM so we can discuss price.Thanks.

Andrew

I'm trying to find a good set of roof rails for my '06 Turbo and was wondering of anyone had purchased any of the non-OEM rails from the plethora available on EBay. And, if they had, what the quality of then is like. I'd prefer used OEM rails, but they seem hard to find... Thanks.

Andrew

Its' almost that time of year again, so I thought I'd ask the list for winter/snow/ice tire recommendations. I live in the Pacific Northwest, so nothing too extreme required. FWIW, the tires have to go on 20" rims, so I know that does narrow the field a little. According to TireAndRack .com these tires are:

Michelin Latitude Alpin:

Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1

Pirelli Scorpion Ice & Snow

Pirelli Scorpion Ice & Snow RFT

Anyone hee have experience with these tires? Thanks.

Andrew

Slightly silly question but I'm getting some scratches removed from the rear door on my CTT and so the "Cayenne Turbo" logos need to be removed/replaced. I was thinking only replacing the "turbo" logo and painting it something more interesting than boring silver. The shop doing the body work wanted way too much to do this so I was thinking of doing it myself. Has anyone else on the list tired this already and can suggest appropriated prep and paint? Also, what adhesive is used to bond the logo to the body? Thanks!

Andrew

I use up about a quart every 1000Miles or so. I add one quart a month. This is what the owners manual say:

My manual says 1.5 quarts every 600 miles is the upper limit, so technically you are fine...

Has anyone on this list tried these?

http://www.fvd.de/us...pass-Pipes.html

They seem to be the best engineered ones I can find, from the pictures...

Andrew

On my CTT the CD changer is accessed from the Audio button and the PCM controls.

Welcome Basher!:welcome:

This looks like an awesome installation:notworthy: ! I have PCM 2.1 with NAV and XM already in my 06 CTT, but would love to install some modern electronics instead:rolleyes: ... Do you still get navigation prompts on the speed/info display in the center of the dash?

Found this interesting link on engine oil consumption from BMW.

http://www.perfectma...m/BMW%20Oil.pdf

There appear to be a lot of variables in it. I would imagine that the Cayenne has relatively loose piston ring tolerance until the engine is fully warmed up.

Interesting read, thanks.

Andrew

I was reading the specs in my owner manual last night and I noticed the oil spec for the CayenneS and Cayenne Turbo. Anyone care to educate me how such high oil consumption can be considered normal? Why do these engines burn so much oil and how can these vehicles meet emissions standards if they're burning so much oil? I guess I should feel happy that my CTT is 'only' burning 1qt/1,600 miles...

Isn't this the same as a Turbo S?

Check the 16 page TSB on the E81 Powerkit.... http://www.renntech....ownload&id=1385

Wow, that seems like a LOT of work for an extra 50HP... Anyone care to speculate what the TurboS does to get to 520HP? New Turbos???

Andrew

I thought the coolant pipes under the intake manifold was something like 8hrs of labour??

Interesting the TSB says 100 TU (and 100 TU = 60 minutes). Seems low to me too.

Perhaps they mean just the pipes and not the rest of the disassembly.

I have a set of pdf files for the cayenne but am having trouble locating the disassembly instructions to get to the pipes. Any idea which manual this info is in? Thanks.

Andrew

I just changed out my plastic coolant pipes for aluminum. Part of the kit is this platic T into a vent hose at the back of the motor. Mine was broken and I could not find a single crack in my plastic coolant pipes.

This is a strange little T since it is plastic but connects two halves of a rubber hose with pressure crimped fittings onto steel lines. I almost replaced it with a metal one but it just did bot make sense. Maybe, somehow, this little T is really the problem?!

You can see in the picture the gap in the rubber hose below the T. This is where it fits in. Notice the type of hose it is on either side of the T.

Yikes, is that a breather pipe spliced into a water pipe, or just a splice to feed cooland to the turbos??? Can anyone let us know why that (POS) plastic connector is there?

Andrew