bnewport

MY engine went at 43k miles, 13.5k to replace. Get a warranty although apparently it's now getting harder to get 996s covered at all.

So

The dealer called and said it's been fixed. The problem is the transmission linkage moved out of alignment slightly and this caused the problem. They said it could have been engine flex or other things. They did some adjustment and the car is working fine again, no charge. Gotta go pick it up now.

I was quoted 1300 bucks to install ROW030 and sways on my 996 C4.

It didn't CEL on me yet which is not to say there was no code. I have an OBD II reader but didn't plug it in. It's at the dealer now anyway so we'll see.

The car when shifting from P to D doesn't seem to engage the gear with an audible thump anymore and the D light flashes. Moving it to M works sometimes, doesn't work other times. I brought it to the dealer this morning and of course, the D went solid just before arriving. I told em to figure it out anyway. Apparently, the gear indicator LEDs and the D can provide information on faults. The dealer asked me if 4 was flashing also for example. Anyone any idea what the lights mean? The car is a 99 C4.

Was it injectors? or cams. Mine ticks also when it's cold and I have a new engine in my 99, 2k miles old now.

An alignment at a dealer is usually about 150 bucks. They can put about 0.5 degrees of camber on a stock 996 as far as I know which helps a little. More camber would require GT3 lower control arms or camber plates or a suspension with built in plates like JIC Cross.

Next time it understeers try lifting briefly on the throttle which should move weight to the front and make it hook up, don't do this if you have been putting more and more lock on in a vain attempt to get rid of the understeer as once the weight shifts to the front, you'll spin in no time.

There is no way a NA 996 engine is overengineered, they are failing with stock power levels. Ask me how I know?

The only overengineered engines are the TT and GT3 blocks. The stock one is designed to be cheap to make.

Pay for track time, best way to be faster, very few of us can drive what we have at the limit regardless.

Any news then? total cost? impressions?

I have a new tip, that failed 200 miles before the engine went.

Final cost was 13592USD. I need to keep RPMs under 4.5k for 2000 miles. Engine was 8200, core was 2300 and then 2400 in labor.

Used factory *front* rotors only. Didn't replace the rear rotors. HP+ on the front and factory on the rear. IIRC, it was about 100 for front pads, 100 for the rear, and about 100 for each of the two rotors. Factory parts came from Sunset(?) or the like while I can't recall where I got the HP+'s. I know I looked far and wide for the best deal I could find on the pads.

Those prices are good, 280 from tirerack for my pads and 160 a rotor from the dealer. The dealer is expensive for pad installation.

Yep

I've changed my rotors. Take off the wheel, take out the pads, unbolt the caliper (2 long bolts), slide caliper off rotor, I supported it then on top of a jack stand in the wheel well, two allen bolts remove the rotor then.

There are torque settings for rebolting the caliper, maybe Loren can provide them.

Shouldn't be any issues with brake fluid unless you drop it or something and it tears.

Hey Viper....where did you get the rotors? If you say pads and rotors where 400, you must have gotten a smokin deal?! Are they factory style drilled, slotted, solid, or other? Could you give us the source? Thank you!

I used frozen rotors which cost around 190 a wheel, pads were 280 (HP+).

Photos of the dead engine

http://www.trackpedia.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8379

Do you RACE your car? If you do, do warranty STILL cover that??

Also, "they paid about 22k for my cars repairs over 3 years" <- what ELSE had been wrong with your car that cost a total of $22k!?!?!

No racing for me, havent entered any competitive, timed or race events with the car. If you race or do competitive driving then they won't cover you.

Local photos

No one can see those images without joining that site.

Perhaps you could repost them here?

I tried, I can't, I click add attachment and it hangs.

Photos of my blown engine.

http://www.trackpedia.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8379

Photos of the dead engine

http://www.trackpedia.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8379

Bnewport: What happened with the warranty company... are they covering it?

Warrentech or Repairmaster are the company and yep, they paid, 9970US for a replacement engine from Porsche with 2 years from the factory. The dealer said the warranty don't do Porsches anymore because of the losses covering the cars.

So far, they paid about 22k for my cars repairs over 3 years. It's covered until 2009 or 72k miles. The most they will pay is the value paid for the car or 46k in my case. Porsche are now covering the transmission or engine for the next two years.

Did you get new struts or did it just bolt on what you already had? Any impressions besides the ride height? Installation cost? Did your dealer do it?

Bnewport: What happened with the warranty company... are they covering it?

I'll know on Monday, the inspector came out on Friday and he's seen plenty of these failures. He took the dealer service records and we're waiting for the call.

So, dealer says, cylinder sleeve broke and bad things happened from there.

Porsche dealer says probadly 15k for a replacement. They are calling the warranty company now.

If they won't pay then Motormeister can fix it for 15k also by boring it to 4.0L and putting steel jackets, forged everything etc and this gives a 'better' engine.

Roy from Motormeister basically says all 996 engines are flawed because of alu sleeves in an alu block with slightly different expansion rates which causes the break when anything funny happens.

Anyone any experience doing this?

www.motormeister.com

It was bought from dealer without CPO but with 3rd party warranty with 17k miles on clock in 2003. Car has 42k now.