Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bnewport

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://<br />http://www.devwebsphere.com/porsche
  • ICQ

Profile Fields

  • From
    Rochester, MN
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 911 C4 Tiptronic S
  • Future cars
    996 GT3

bnewport's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. MY engine went at 43k miles, 13.5k to replace. Get a warranty although apparently it's now getting harder to get 996s covered at all.
  2. So The dealer called and said it's been fixed. The problem is the transmission linkage moved out of alignment slightly and this caused the problem. They said it could have been engine flex or other things. They did some adjustment and the car is working fine again, no charge. Gotta go pick it up now.
  3. It didn't CEL on me yet which is not to say there was no code. I have an OBD II reader but didn't plug it in. It's at the dealer now anyway so we'll see.
  4. The car when shifting from P to D doesn't seem to engage the gear with an audible thump anymore and the D light flashes. Moving it to M works sometimes, doesn't work other times. I brought it to the dealer this morning and of course, the D went solid just before arriving. I told em to figure it out anyway. Apparently, the gear indicator LEDs and the D can provide information on faults. The dealer asked me if 4 was flashing also for example. Anyone any idea what the lights mean? The car is a 99 C4.
  5. Was it injectors? or cams. Mine ticks also when it's cold and I have a new engine in my 99, 2k miles old now.
  6. An alignment at a dealer is usually about 150 bucks. They can put about 0.5 degrees of camber on a stock 996 as far as I know which helps a little. More camber would require GT3 lower control arms or camber plates or a suspension with built in plates like JIC Cross. Next time it understeers try lifting briefly on the throttle which should move weight to the front and make it hook up, don't do this if you have been putting more and more lock on in a vain attempt to get rid of the understeer as once the weight shifts to the front, you'll spin in no time.
  7. There is no way a NA 996 engine is overengineered, they are failing with stock power levels. Ask me how I know? The only overengineered engines are the TT and GT3 blocks. The stock one is designed to be cheap to make.
  8. Pay for track time, best way to be faster, very few of us can drive what we have at the limit regardless.
  9. I have a new tip, that failed 200 miles before the engine went.
  10. Final cost was 13592USD. I need to keep RPMs under 4.5k for 2000 miles. Engine was 8200, core was 2300 and then 2400 in labor.
  11. Those prices are good, 280 from tirerack for my pads and 160 a rotor from the dealer. The dealer is expensive for pad installation.
  12. Yep I've changed my rotors. Take off the wheel, take out the pads, unbolt the caliper (2 long bolts), slide caliper off rotor, I supported it then on top of a jack stand in the wheel well, two allen bolts remove the rotor then. There are torque settings for rebolting the caliper, maybe Loren can provide them. Shouldn't be any issues with brake fluid unless you drop it or something and it tears.
  13. I used frozen rotors which cost around 190 a wheel, pads were 280 (HP+).
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.