mkc2bad

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I ended up taking it a garage. He checked for leaks - none. The ecu was reporting no reading on one of the o2 sensors. Had this replaced and it's all running fine now :) cheers

Thanks for the replies guys. Ok I double checked that all the connections were in and they are all tight and clipped in properly. I can see all the other tubes for the air system with the Y peice etc, and they haven't been disturbed and again, are connected ok. I reset the battery again, and for the first few minutes while the car is cold it appears to be ok, but as soon as it warms up the rough idling starts again and the revs sometimes really dips and almost stalls the engine (but not quite). I can also still hear a very faint belt squeaking noise, but only once it is wamred up.......I toook the car to a local garage, and they kindly hooked their diagnostic tool up - the fault is coming back as the o2 sensor being faulty. Would this be the case (ie can a failing o2 sensor give the problems i'm having?) or would a vacuum leak also cause it to throw this error? I keep thinking it is a leak somewhere, mainly duue to the fact that the squeaking is still there........ Thanks Mike

Hello Everyone! My car was making the belt squeaky sound very loudly, removing the oil filler cap elimited the noise. I therefore thought the AOS was failing (in part it may have been) I replaced the AOS after following the excellent guide as linked on from this forum - However the squaking noise is still just about audible (much much fainter) The car is also idling very roughly anytime you come off the throttle. It tends to sort itself out after 5 seconds or so but I can tell something isn't quite right - feels slightly more brash and lumpy, rather than the silky smooth feeling it had before. It also caused the check engine light to come on - I've since reset the battery as I took the AOS out and re connected it all fearing I had not connected something correctly. I'm 100% sure everything is now connected properly. I was given a new rubber hose bit with the AOS (is this the bellows??) that connects right at the bottom of the AOS. I replaced the spring type clamp with a jubilee (screw) type clamp. Any ideas as to where the problem maybe? Would it be worth replacing the plastic Y tube that connects the AOS to the throttle body? At a guess I'm assuming there is a vaccum leak somewhere as when I take the oil filler cap off the car idles much more smoothly. Thanks Mike

Thanks very much for the suggestion. I'll get the oil changed out at the weekend hopefully. Just to add...... When the car is stationary it crunches if you put it straight into 3rd..... however if you hold the clutch down for a few seconds and then engage 3rd it shifts perfectly into gear with no crunching. Weird?! Its the same when shifting up from 2nd-3rd - if you hold the clutch in and let the the revs drop right down, it's fine, unfortunatly upshifting from 4th - 3rd still crunches no matter what. I really hope I don't need a whole new box. Thanks M.

Thanks for the tip - Thing is, as far as I am aware, the tranmittion oil has not been changed during the service, so I will def. check and see. I did a little more inspecting and the crunch happens even when the car is stationary and you put it straight into 3rd (every other gear is fine, except it cruched once or twice when selecting 4th aswell) It's then fine on subsequent shifts as long as you don't pull up the clutch (ie keep foot depressed on clutch and you can select all the gears perfectly) As soon as you pull the clutch up (obviously engaging neutral) and then depress the clutch and try and select 3rd again , the crunch happens. Is this a sign of a worn syncro? It really does feel like the clutch just isn't fully disengaged. Thanks for all your help :) Mike

Hi I just had my 2000 2.7 boxster in for a full service inc poly belt change and fuel filter as well as the free whell pulley on the alternator being replaced as it was seized. The car was otherwise in perfect condition when I took it in and the gearbox has always been as sweet as a nut. As soon as I got it back and drove it home, there was a crunching sound when selecting 3rd gear, almost as if I haven't pushed the clutch down far enough. Its a sort of metal on metal noise. Its much worse if you shift up at higher rpm, but in general the whole gearbox doesn't feel quite as 'tight' as it did before. Now the garage is saying its nothing to do with them and it is now down to the fact that the syncro is worn and would probably be cheaper to just replace the whole gear box. My real question is, could anything have happeend while it was being serviced to suddenly make my gearbox go all crunchy? All the other gears appear to be fine, and the crunch is much worse when downshifiting from 4th - 3rd. Thanks Mike

Hi I just had my 2000 2.7 boxster in for a full service inc poly belt change and fuel filter as well as the free whell pulley on the alternator being replaced as it was seized. The car was otherwise in perfect condition when I took it in and the gearbox has always been as sweet as a nut. As soon as I got it back and drove it home, there was a crunching sound when selecting 3rd gear, almost as if I haven't pushed the clutch down far enough. Its a sort of metal on metal noise. Its much worse if you shift up at higher rpm, but in general the whole gearbox doesn't feel quite as 'tight' as it did before. Now the garage is saying its nothing to do with them and it is now down to the fact that the syncro is worn and would probably be cheaper to just replace the whole gear box. My real question is, could anything have happeend while it was being serviced to suddenly make my gearbox go all crunchy? All the other gears appear to be fine, and the crunch is much worse when downshifiting from 4th - 3rd. Thanks Mike

Mike: There are two microswitches in the front of one of your transmissions in your 2000 Boxster that control that "top open" idiot light on the dash. The factory manual says that they are in the passenger side transmission (right side). At least on U.S. cars, it's definitely on the driver's side (left side). When that light goes out, it cuts power to the convertible top motor, and thereby stops spinning the cables that rotate the V-Levers. You can either try to rotate the V-levers "manually" (by spinning the cables with a cordless drill after you pull them out of the sides of the motor), in the hope that the transmissions will reset themselves, or, you will have to remove and open the transmission that contains those two microswitches. As, I said, in U.S. cars their at the front of the driver's side (left side) transmissions. The procedure for spinning the cables with a drill has already been written up here, do a search and you'll find a DIY with photos. For photos of the inside of the transmission, as well as how to remove the transmission, take a look at Mike Focke's Boxster Pages, here: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement Regards, Maurice. Hi Thanks for the reply. When you say tranmission (sorry I'm from the UK), do you mean the Plastic covers/carpet that run down the side of the car to hide all the wiring etc. I had a look last night, and under the clamshell I can see a cable (assuming it supplies power etc) to a little black box containing motor next to the 3rd brake light. This wire feeds down towards the left side of the car, so assume there is a microswitch down that side of the car somewhere. What does the switch look like, and how will I know if it is faulty? I tried all the usual steps of the tapping the relay and checking the fuses, but thought it was a bit of a long shot as the roof will still go down, but not up. I've not lowered the roof fully as yet, as I'm scared I won't be able to close it again without having to disconnect all the various balljoints/levers. Also, I was reading all the various posts on here - I assume that becuase my car is a 2000, I won't have the microswitchs in the B pillar and in the clamshell? I couldn't see any switches of any sort. Thanks Mike

Bit of an odd one. My 2000 2.7 boxster is having a little roof problem. I can lower the roof fine (it's only 1/4 down at the mo - ie the back part is up), but now it won't close. Pressing the button on the dash doesn't do anything. I've already searched the forum, and my handbrake light is on so I know it's not the relay/switch there causing the problem. The one light that isn't on though is the light on the dash telling you that the roof is not completely up/down. Any ideas? I get the feeling that it's a sensor somewhere and the car thinks the roof is already completly closed. Luckily the roof hasn't start to retract so i can still close it, but the back compartment lid is up right now. Thanks Mike