questforbalance

After much, much work, I changed the RMS, Clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and am now anxious to get my Boxster reassembled, BUT how the heck do I get the transmission back in. The bolt holes are all lined up, but I cannot get the thing to go all the way back to the motor. I greased up the transmission shaft with lots of grease and then jiggled and jiggled the darn thing but the transmission still does not go the rest of the way back. It is about 1/2 or so away from engine. Any advice or suggestions?

Thanks

Well, thanks a lot to this forum and especially JFP for all his help and guidance. I honestly do not know how anyone can get the new style rms into their Porsches without the special Porsche tool. Porsche has a monopoly on the tool., Porsche charged the dealership tax so that they would not resell the tool. What a racket. Anyway, my rms, flywheel, clutch and pressure plates are successfully installed, now I can start putting everything back together. Once I am done with this project, I will post some pictures. Installing the flywheel was a little challenging, it is a heavy bugger, and trying to align it up properly, torquing and do another 120 degree on each bolt under a car that is only maybe two feet above the ground is challenging, but not impossible. yourself,

Oh, another question: Can I use denatured alcohol or mineral spirits instead of acetone? I happen to have denatured alcohol and mineral spirits in my garage. Should I go get some acetone and use that instead?

Hello JFP,

Thanks for the response. When do I take off the blue plastic on the rms? Do I keep it on when I put the rms on the insertion tool?

Thanks

Hello JFP,

I got the Porsche tools (9699 and 9699/2) today, yes, I bought it. I will sell it after I use it. Can you provide me with some instructions on using the tool and installing the rms with this tool? Also, can I use the existing flywheel bolts to secure the tool to the crankshaft? (gee, I hope so)

Hello JFP,

In the 9699 tool diagram you have above, what is it that #5 (9699/2 Assembly Aid) does? Is says it is for the PFTE sealing ring. Is that the plastic cone that comes with the RMS? It appears that the samstag tool may not have that piece. Is that piece required?  BTW, is the Victor Reinz RMS is an good quality OEM equivalent?

Hello JFP,

Thanks for the reply. I will go to Home Depot and look at the cap and coupler. I am also considering buying coloradocurt's tool. But I have to admit, I am tired of using a hammer. I found this tool that looks like the Porsche tool. It is expensive, not as expensive as the Porsche tool, but I think I am starting to get desperate. http://www.samstagsales.com/SirTool/stp_262x.jpg. Do you have any thoughts about this tool? Here is another link. Scrowl down and look at ST P262 (9609)  http://www.samstagsales.com/Porsche.htm

Help! I followed my 101projectsformyboxster instructions for installation for the rear main seal and it has been disastrous so far. I have ruined two main seals so far. In the first case, I tapped the rear main seal in lightly with a finish nail hammer, but the lower left portion of the seal went in way too far. The upper right was hard to get in. I then got another rear main seal and tried it again with a tool I made from PVC pipe. The pipe was 4-inches, fit over the rear main seal and then I glued another pipe over that one to create a 3 mm overlap at the bottom. The outer pipe is larger than the bore, so it creates a stop. But again, the rear main seal went in cocked. The lower left went all the way in again. This time I banged harder with my hammer on the upper right and the left bottom went in deeper, all the way back to the chain. The upper right went in a little bit more. Another rear main seal ruined. What am I doing wrong? How do I get this seal in here? Help! Help!

I worked on solving this problem today and so this is what I did:

I rechecked the new Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, inspected the wires and inspected the self adhesive tape I used to wrap the wires feeding the ECT sensor and the ECT (I wrapped everything up thoroughly). I then removed the B1 fuse from the fuse box just in case there was an air pocket left over from when I changed the front radiators three weeks ago. I opened the bleeder valve, cleared the DTC from the car's computer and bled the car all over again. I hooked up my hand held OBD2 reader and monitored the RPMs and engine coolant temperature sensor. After a few minutes the temperature sensor on the dash board starting working and indicating the coolant temperature. I compared the result with my hand held OBD2 reader. I spent a good 30-minutes reving the car and trying to bleed the coolant system. The car did not need any more coolant. I drove the car for about five miles and no codes returned, no flashing lights and the temperature gauge was working properly.

My theory is that the car wash may have shorted the ECT somehow and caused the coolant system to malfunction. Everything seems ok for now. Hopefully it stays this way. Thanks for everyone's help and I hope this posting helps others with the same problem.

Hello JFP,

My car is a 2002 Porsche Carrera C4S with 86,000 miles. I used Durametric to obtain the DTCs.

JFP,

Forgot to mention the car is a Tiptronic automatic transmission.

I need some help on this topic. I am getting the temperature fault code on the dash. The temperature sensor is at zero and does not move at all and I am getting the temperature fault on the dash. I changed the engine coolant temperature sensor, but still I get the same warning lights on the dash. I checked the DTCs and get: P0116, P0128, P0 430 and P0420. Some history: I recently changed the two front radiators, filled it and coolant level is good. I took car through a car wash one day before the warning light came on. Any idea how I can diagnose and fix this?

Hello Everyone, I just replaced the coolant in my 2002 C4S and used the Airlift vacuum tool and what a great tool it is. I changed the coolant on my two other cars without this tool and what a difference this tool made. This tool saved me hours from frustration bleeding and reflilling the coolant. Here is a trick I learned to extract all the coolant in your car.

Remove the coolant plug and the big hoses and using your shopvac suck out the rest of the coolant that does not flow out by gravity. I did this on my other two cars and it worked great. it saved alot of time and makes the pain in the *** process a little less frustrating. You will only have to clean out the shopvac after you are done.

This is how I used the shop vac.

I put the shopvac plastic nozzle inside the large hose and I closed up the hose by squeezing it with my hand to try to restrict the flow of air entering the hose. Oh, by the way, I put the cap back on the reservoir and closed the bleed valve before I did this to ensure that I am sucking coolant and not air. I then listened to the vacuum sound and watched the shopvac hose dance around a little as coolant is sucked into the shopvac. Then I would periodically remove the shopvac and make sure the bucket is under the hose because a guse of coolant will come spraying out. Also, I did this on the coolant plug hole. I put the shopvac tightly against the plug hole and held it there for a couple of minutes and then took it off. Again, make sure you have your bucket under the hole because coolant will guse out.

After you have extracted almost every drop, I mean it will almost be dry when you are done put the plug back in the coolant plug hole and reinstall the hoses and clamps. I then stuck the shopvac into the reservoir and sucked out more coolant from there.

Then I finished up with the Airlift Vacuum Tool. Man, what a great tool. It worked perfectly. I wish I knew about this tool when I did my first car.

Good luck.

Thanks Maurice.

My driver's side window does not close properly when I open and close the driver's side door. I can close the window when I am in the car, I just cannot close the door with when I am outside the car with the window in the up position. This problem has been on-going for a while and so I would usually just keep the window open when I get out of the car. But now, the window moves up and down slightly when I am driving. Does anyone know where or how I can diagnose and fix the problem? Seems I now have to drive the car with window open all the time.

I have a 99 Boxster and I flushed my brakes this weekend, but I could not get the clutch bleed valve cap off the slave cylinder. I pulled it, turned, pinched it and did everything I could think of while trying not to break anything, but could not get that darn clutch bleed nipple off.

How do you get that darn thing off?

I bled my brakes today but could not get the cap off the slave cylinder. I pulledon it, turned it but it did not come off. Does anyone know how to get the cap off the bleed valve on the slave cylinder?

How do I get hold of Glyn? I would like his photo instruction for replacing the rear wheel bearing.

Thanks!

How do I get hold of Glyn? I would like his photo instruction for replacing the rear wheel bearing.

I replaced my drivers side rear wheel bearing today after putting up with the noise for the last 6 months. I couldn't believe local indys were asking for about $600 to do one side but now I can appreciate why!

I took advantage of our Navy base auto hobby shop and went to work with bought a bearing from Autohaus for $39 and a new Axle nut from Rock Auto for about $3 plus shipping. Five hours later, I have a nice quiet rear end again. Yes I'm slow and I know why I don't mechanic for a living.

I was fortunate to have come across a thread on this site with an entry from Glyn, who had done this job on his own and had done a great job documenting his work. I printed out his document that he was so kind to email me and used it to perform my work. Given the access I had to a first rate shop, the parts that I though would be tough such as removing the carrier and pressing out the hub and bearing were actually not that bad. I did have one heck of a time reassembling the parking brake and connecting the cable. Although I had no problems removing the parking brake shoes and cable, I did spend considerable time replacing the items. Access to the parking brake cable was very tight. I also managed to install one brake shoe upside down, not realizing my error until I couldn't get the rotor to seat on the hub. Idiot.

I'd like to say that if I had to do the other side tomorrow I could do it in a fraction of the time of today's efforts but right now I'm not sure.

One thing I do know, I'm not doing the other side until it starts to scream.

Thanks again to Glyn. Anyone looking to do a bearing job shop ask for his instructions.

Thanks for the advice. I changed my air filter, cleaned my MAF sensor, put a bottle of techron in gas tank, cleared codes and drove car for five days and codes have not reappeared. Glad to say, that for the moment my problem is resolved. Thanks. great forum. Hope my experience helps someone else.

I have a 1999 Boxster (2.5 L), 5 speed manual, USA which I bought with 67,500 miles five months ago. Car sat unused almost a year before I bought it. I started driving it a few weeks ago sporadically when the weather permitted. Last week the check engine light came on and I brought the car to Pepboys to read the on-board diagnostics. Code P1126 came on. I read my Bentley book and read through articles here and checked air filter. It was badly clogged up so I replaced it and had code reset. A few days later check engine light came back on and this time it reads: P1126, P1124, P0446. What does this mean? How can I fix this? I will fix it myself if I can find out what to do. Can you assist me? I want to drive the car, but am afraid that if I don't correct these problems soon I will make matters worse if I continue driving the car. HELP!! Many thanks.